Hinge Pin Removal Tool ?

[TommyCoupe]

I've been working on my very stubborn door hinge pins, and I think I will need to purchase a tool.

I've seen a couple different versions. One looks kind of like a C-Clamp, and one looks like 2 pieces of bar stock with 2 bolts in it.

Any recommendations ?

Tommy-

[Tom Wesenberg]

I've only tried the C-clamp type and it works on some pins. The very stuck pins probably need to be carefully drilled down through the center to about 3/4ths of the way down with a drill bit just smaller than the pin diameter. Then when you use a punch the pressure is transfered to the far end of the pin, which helps to shrink the pin diameter. When you push the pin from the end, you are actually making the pin diameter a bit larger, or worse yet mushrooming the end.

[unclerichard]

I have one I bought from MAC'S. For me a COMPLETE waste of money. I turned it so hard it actually sprung the "C" frame part. Needless to say the pins didn't move. Only thing that worked for me was heat. However-do the heatin before you do the beatin!!

[wrndln]

I bought the tool and all it did was bend the pins that came with the tool. A total waste of money. Do what Tom said and carefully drill them out.
Rusty Nelson

[CarlG]

The success of using one of these tools to remove the pin is whether or not the pin is worn such that it actually has offset shoulders that prevent it from being driven out due to the sholder catching on the next part of the hinge. If they are that way, drilling them out would be the only way.

I have one of the tools pictured below and have used it successfully on both of my doors, and my friend used it on his '50 F1 pickup.

[norson]

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How timely is this? I was needing to do some door removal and up pops a thread. I think I'll try the double bar approach before the drilling. I have problem drilling straight. Thanks. Norm

[Fred K-OR]

On my coupe, the door was sprung a bit and when the pin came out (after drilling) the two parts of the hinge off set each other. This also made it hard to get out and put the new one in. I tried the "c" frame thing and it did not work. So that was the reason for drilling.

[Colorado Greg]

When I added mirrors to my coupe, the pins were really stuck in the hinges and had probably not been removed since '29. My car is all painted so I didn't want to use heat or remove the hinges. I soaked them with PB Blaster for several weeks then got the double bar version of the tool. One of the hinge pins came out but I needed to add grade 8 washers to the tool because I tore it up pretty good with the bolt head and cheap washer. On the other side I got the pin to move almost a whole 1/4" before I broke the "hardened" pin. I ended up drilling it out as Tom suggested and everything worked out. I had to get a 12" drill bit to clear the roof, and it wasn't very much fun, but I now have mirrors. Good luck!

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Don Turley

The "C" clamp style is a waste of money. I've had fair success with the two bar style, until I loaned it to a friend and he destroyed it. Since then, I no longer lend tools.

That's a bummer, but I know the feeling. You'd think the guy would at least replace the broken tool.

[TommyCoupe]

Sounds like the "2 bar" style is a little better than the "C-clamp" style.

I orderd one last night, and we'll see how it goes.

Tommy-

[jw hash]

I made a double bar one years ago, the trick is to cut diffirent lenth push pins and use the shortest one you can just to get the pin moving then put longer ones in as you go I also have some leather that I put on the top of the hinge to protect the paint from getting damaged .

[5window]

I purchased a C style tool from Bob Drake. Very well made, but didn't work that well. I have used to two bar clamp-that works a bit better, but not great. LOTS of soaking with PB Blaster,etc. is the place to start. It may be difficult to access the hinge pins to drill without hitting the drip rail,etc. Keep in mind the following:
The knurled part of the pin under the top lip has been happily rusting in place for many years.
The pin size is NOT 1/4", don't overdrill the hole, although oversized pins are available.
Replacement hinges are really really expensive-think before you grab a bigger hammer.
Sometimes heat can be your friend, sometimes the "blue wrench" is not a good idea.

The BEST tip I got was from Bill at the Model A Acres in Watsontown,PA. He showed me how, with time, the hinge pin can have a groove or notch cut into it by the hinge. In the wrong position, it will never come out because you cannot hammer the hinge with the groove wedged against the hinge body. Try turning the door to different positions and eventually you position it so that the notch doesn't like up with the hinge and you can drive the pin. This was the ultimate answer for me.

[5window]

Here's what some of my pins looked like-I just can't understand why that C clamp tool didn't work!

[TD]

new and used pins are plentiful as well as inexpensive - I agree with carefully drilling out the old, they are soft steel, and installing a new one. Especially if it is really rusted in.

[Happydaze]

Maybe i've just been really lucky, but i haven't done that many. Got the C clamp tool but agree, they're pretty ineffectual.

My sucesses have been to center punch the pin (not excessively) and use a pointed drift on an air chisel. Gently does it with the air gun (turned down quite low) and after a couple of minutes of seemingly nothing, they just slide out quite freely, as if by magic.

I do pre treat with penetrant of choice, but don't know what difference this makes.

Chris

[Rich B.]

If you can get them out about a 1/4" you can weld a rod to the end.
Attach slide hammer, and they WILL come out!

Rich

[tahern]

Easiest way for my money is to drill them out and put in oversized pins

[Jerry in Shasta]

I've used the two bar unit pictured above, and P. B., with some luck.
The only thing was i left the clamp on the pin and tightened it every other day along with a Kroil. one day it just poped out.

I then used Stainless Steel long bolts with the heads turned down and threads cut off to look like pins, as door pins.

[5window]

Originally Posted by Jerry in Shasta

I've used the two bar unit pictured above, and P. B., with some luck.
The only thing was i left the clamp on the pin and tightened it every other day along with a Kroil. one day it just poped out.

I then used Stainless Steel long bolts with the heads turned down and threads cut off to look like pins, as door pins.

What keeps you pins in place? Mac's sells SS pins with the proper knurled ridges under the head.

[TommyCoupe]

So far I haven't had great success with the new 2-bar style hinge pin removal tool that I just purchased.
3 of the 6 pins actually moved a bit, so I am soaking them again with penetrating oil, before I work on them again.
The other 3, aren't going anywhere. I actually snapped one of the pins in the tool. So that's how much pressure I had on them. Also, some of the paint on one of the bars is coming off, so the bar itself is probably bent. That's a lot of pressure.

I've now un-screwed all of the screws holding the hinges to the cowl post, and the doors are off. Those screws weren't a lot of fun either.
Time to start drilling.

Tommy-