In-line gas line fuel filter

[jtminor]

Any suggestion on installing an in-line fuel filter in my 49 F1.

Short of replacing the tank, any other suggestions...

[GB SISSON]

Many of us have drained, removed.cleaned and re-sealed the tank with gas tank sealer. It's not an easy job. If you can swing it, I bet a replacement tank is available for your truck. Filters just keep clogging, and at the worst time. I have had some luck with brass or copper screen used like a sock around the pickup tube if your tank uses a top mounted fuel pickup.

[aussie merc]

if you install one ensure that it is placed before the fuel pump as this will protect pump as well

[fordor41]

when I had our '41 ford with electric fuel pump I had a metal cannister filter berfore, after the pump and one small filter on the carb

[cmbrucew]

The tank cost @200.00 for my F1, after working on the original for over two years. Rotortissery, chains, nuts and bolts, MEK, still dirty. Ethenol still melts off resin.


Bruce

[Jacques1960]

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Thoughts on the efficacy of the small filters available for glass sediment bowls ?

[Lawson Cox]

I have one on mine. It filters the gas. The glass bowl just gives something heavy and solid a place to drop into before it gets to the carburetor. It's worth the $5.00 and change for a little peace of mind.

[51504bat]

Don't use one of these. I had 2 on my '39 p/u and they both leaked where the glass attached to the end fittings. Only lasted a couple of months. Go with a solid metal filter.

[Anteek29]

Originally Posted by 51504bat

Don't use one of these. I had 2 on my '39 p/u and they both leaked where the glass attached to the end fittings. Only lasted a couple of months. Go with a solid metal filter.

Maybe the ethanol melted the glue over time?

[bobH]

Unlike some of the comments, I've had good luck with filters. I've had four cars in recent times (15-20 years), that have had rusty, cruddy tanks. I've cleaned the tanks as best I can. I've fixed a few leaks. Then, I've mounted metal canister-type filters near the tank. And, simply drive them clean (or, sorta clean). I don't believe in the slosh coatings - not willing to take a chance with them not giving trouble, later. On my 47, it came to me with considerable crap coming out of the tank. I never did anything to clean it, but simply put the filter on. After a couple of changes, it settled down, and I never changed the filter again, in over 15 years. On my 34, the tank was quite rusty, and rodents had gotten into it with nest material. I got it as clean as I could, put the filter on, and never gave it another thought. Same thing on a 38 Plymouth. And, currently, I've been messing with another 47, and again, I just put a filter on it. And, unlike the luck that is noted in post #8, this car came with that same glass filter between the pump and carb. I have left that in place, and haven't had any trouble with it. I did replace the end o-rings, sourced from my local parts store. At least temporarily, I like that glass filter in place, so I can monitor what is going through. So far, it looks clean. The metal canister filter that I have used, is a GM filter, suggested by one of the posters on this forum. It's large, and takes the filter element that originally came stock on Ford fuel pumps, in the 60's era. Look at a 66 Ford Mustang fuel pump, for an idea of the size, and the element used. The AC Delco number for this canister filter, is GF62P. And the GM part number is 05651879. Found on-line.
One more 'tidbit'... On the 38 Plymouth, I temporarily used the cheap, plastic, in-line filters, right next to the tank. This is because I made NO effort to clean the tank, and I used these to catch the bulk of the crap, for the first few runs of the car. After three changes of this small, cheap, plastic filter, I simply did not replace it, and resorted to the larger, metal-cased filter. No further problems.

[FortyNiner]

I installed a filter between the tank and the fuel pump. Unlike others, my rusty tank did not heal itself and continued to put crud into the line. Following many stalling incidents - including a few tows home, I used a POR kit to clean and seal the tank. It has been ~10 years without any issues.

Two points:
Follow the kit instructions exactly.
Be certain to clean or replace the entire line

[miniceptor86]

I’m not a fan of tank interior coatings. I’ve seen a few failures on motorcycle tanks and getting the old material out is a pain. I don’t want to see one on a 10 to 20 gallon tank. I’ll stick with a filter. I also don’t think multiple filters in series has any benefit. The first one should catch everything and once restricted the next filter in line will not get fuel to filter. Maybe a parallel filter set up where you could switch from the clogged filter to a fresh one.

[jtminor]

Ok guys I need your help...
Installed inline filter, new fuel pump, new connector line to pump, gas fills up to the filter, looks OK ... no gas is filling the pump bowl....? What do you think..?

[dono50]

I cleaned the rust particles in my 50 ford with magnet (wand type) Removed the fuel sender unit and was able to cover most of the area. Took about an hour but good results. A lot less sediment in the inline filter since then. Work best with a little fuel in the tank.

[FortyNiner]

Is the entire line clear?

[jtminor]

yes all lines open to pump, thinking about putting old pump back on..... just put new pump on a few weeks ago....

[FortyNiner]

Does the new pump exactly match the old?

[bobH]

Did anyone mention 'priming'? Sometimes these things won't go by themselves, and sometimes priming will help. Just my experience.

[GB SISSON]

I installed my por 15 lined fuel tank into my 46 tonner project yesterday afternoon. I rehabbed a very stuck and clogged petcock from the bottom of a tank that was in bad condition. This brought to mind how I have dealt with some problematic tanks on previous projects with the fuel delivery line on the bottom of the tank. There is a stamped dome on the tank's bottom around the petcock which collects the worst of the rust particles and other crud. This dome acts like a funnel to feed this all this crud directly into the petcock for a good clog. On at least 3 different trucks I have drilled out the 1/4" pipe thread tank end to accept a copper tubing 'standpipe'. This is a piece of 1/4" tubing that extends above the petcock by about 1 1/4" or so. I then cross drill at a dozen points with a small drill bit, 1/16"or so. I can't recall ever having a problem with clogging after introducing the standpipe. Please don't drive around on 'empty' with this system.

[jtminor]

What about the push rod off the cam, could this be a problem in the proper operation of the pump....