Rear axle thread stripped

[BobbyG]

Come up against a bit of an issue today whilst replacing rear drums, started to tighten the castellated nut on rear hub, and I find that the thread on the axle has stripped.

I tried the nut from the other side and that too does the same, starts to get tight and then goes loose

What are my options guys?

[Jim Brierley]

In an emergency you might try putting smaller threads on the end, difficult and not the best solution. The best way is to replace the axle.

[ford3]

your best bet is to get another axle, theres alot of them out there, 2 other choices, weld the threads up and have them recut, have the axle end cut down to the next size and then rethreaded

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Yes, definitely a safety factor if the axle is not replaced!

[hardtimes]

Originally Posted by BobbyG

Come up against a bit of an issue today whilst replacing rear drums, started to tighten the castellated nut on rear hub, and I find that the thread on the axle has stripped.

I tried the nut from the other side and that too does the same, starts to get tight and then goes loose

What are my options guys?

Hey BobbyG,
Hm...'both'? Sounds like you should examine the NUT threads first! I'd say the odds of both being striped at the same time are unusual. However, I've run into striped nut more often than axle.
If axle is actually stripped, options are to clean/recut thread and get a smaller hardened nut. I think , but not sure, that a size smaller nut can be bought..but don't remember where I saw it. Of course, good used or new axles are option. Are you running NEW or old original parts. Old parts are really hard and made to take the required torque vs repro junk.
There's a tool for 'cleaning up/redo' on the axle threads. Mabe club member or buddy has one that you can borrow. That may help, but as said good original nos or usable nut is important. I got a couple NEW repro nuts from supplier...I didn't like looks of them and won't use them!

[BobbyG]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

It is all old original parts.
It is the rear drivers side that I am having issues with --- I tried the nut from the passenger side and that does exactly the same so I am deducing that the problem is the axle and not the nuts.

Now trying to find an axle - I am in the Uk so not as easy as you might think !

Cheers all

Bob

[juke joint johnny]

Hi


Sent you a pm Re Axle
John

[ford3]

BobbyG, if finding another axle is a real problem, take the axle to a good machine shop if you have one near you, have it chucked up in a lathe and the end welded up like they do to crank shaft throws, then cut or ground down to the size where it can be rethreaded to the original size

[BobbyG]

John above has some shafts - now looking at how exactly I go about removing / replacing an axle shaft.

Tell you one thing this old car is certainly testing my patience.


Thanks all

Bob

[Benson]

For the benefit of others who may not know this:

One cause of stripped axle threads is described below:

It is common to see the first 1/2 inch of axle threads stripped.

I hear folks telling people that this is the way to remove rear brake drums... this method only damages the axle threads.

One thing that causes the damage is that some one loosens the castle axle nut a couple of turns and hammers on the nut in an attempt to remove the hub/brake drum instead of using the correct tool.

As the axle nut is hammered the "castle nut" is deformed on top.

Now when the nut is threaded on the next axle shaft, the nut threads on 1/2 way then binds up when the smashed part of the nut starts to thread on the shaft.

Some folks do not stop at this point ... they just use a longer wrench to force the damaged nut on ... stripping the first 1/2 inch of the threads.

This is a good reason to avoid the use of an impact wrench to tighten things.

So if you find a nut that goes on nice 1/2 way then bends up, STOP and find a nut that is not damaged and destroy the damaged nut.

NOTE: (If you must use the "hammer on the axle nut" method then remove the nut, turn it around and thread it on with the "castle" toward the inside.)

[Chris in CT]

Hi Bobby G, I'm on vacation now, and do not have my shop thread chart, but I believe that there is such a thing as a 9/16 - 18 tap and die. Since your original thread on the axle end was 5/8-18 (18, is that right, guys?) if your original thread was stripped out on the O.D. of the axle, you could carefully start a 9/16 die over the damaged end. Starting this square and running it true requires a developed level of skill, so if you have not done work like this before, get a top notch machinist to do it for you. You will need to get a grade "C" (or grade 8) castellated nut to go onto the axle end when you are finished. In all probability, you will have to make a nut from hex stock which has the same dimensions as the original 5/8-18 nut, but with the 9/16-18 internal thread. If done properly, it will work as well as the original, and be a lot simpler than replacing the axles. Happy Motoring!

[40 Deluxe]

Chris, will your homemade nut have the correct hardness, seeing as how it is made from unknown hardness bar stock?

[Lawrie]

The original nuts are hardened,if they are damaged from hitting with a hammer they WILL cut the threads on the axle under size.
If you want to try and do a repair without removing the axle you could get a thread file or metric die nut and recut the axle in place, if you have to remove the axle ,you should then take the opportunity to fit another good original axle.
As someone else said use an original,I had some nos replacement axles and they were as soft as butter.they deformed on the thread end when I tried to get the hub off using my KR puller.
The originals are hardened about 1/8 t0 3/16th deep,this includes the threads,they are damm tough.
Lawrie

[BobbyG]

That is the very annoying part of this scenario - I know about not beating on nuts I learned that lesson a loooong time ago !

I have a proper puller also.

But this happened just as I was putting the hubs back on after a new repop wheel cylinder started to leak out.

I was at halfway up the threads and not putting any torque on it yet - 84 years and it goes bad now - I think it must like being parked in the garage.

Thanks all.

Bob

[BrianBurkert]

This is not the best, but my friend stripped his axle and we had to get it fixed in a pinch. We jacked the car up and removed the hub. We put the car in gear and left the axle turn, carefully filing away the remains of the old threads... just enough to remove them. Allowing the axle to turn while filing kept things round. The next step down was actually a metric die and nut. We filed just enough to get the new die started and it threaded right on. It worked out well. I'll see if I can find out what metric nut he used.

[BrianBurkert]

The die we used was 14mm x 1.5

[BrianBurkert]

Here's a photo.

[Chris in CT]

Originally Posted by 40 Deluxe

Chris, will your homemade nut have the correct hardness, seeing as how it is made from unknown hardness bar stock?

Hi 40, Yes, you do have to know either the hardness of your bar stock, or its hardening characteristics, so that you can have it heat-treated. (I know, its a nuisance, but not as much of a nuisance as replacing the axles...)

[TDO]

As a machinist I've did a lot of threads, first chuck it in a lathe and turn off all the old threads then weld up and re thread to original size.

[RichPA]

If it's ok until to go to tighten it try shimming the nut out to where the threads are better with a couple of washers, use a new nut. Not a proper fix but it may get you on the road for now, just a thought.

[Joe K]

Originally Posted by TDO

As a machinist I've did a lot of threads, first chuck it in a lathe and turn off all the old threads then weld up and re thread to original size.

This probably the best fix, but one has to be VERY sure of their welding. Definitely a job for liquid penetrant or mag particle.

But when done one can claim strength equal to if not exceeding the original material.

Joe K

[Ron in Quincy]

The original 5/8-18 axel nut is a special hardened nut; if you use a 5/8-18 nut that is not hardened it will strip the threads from the nut and sometimes ruin the axel threads. The axel nut needs to torque to as least 90 foot pounds then tighten enough to insert the cotter key.

I do not believe it is a good idea to cut the axel threads to the next smaller size as the axel carries a lot of safety load and if it fails it could result in a serious accident.

If you check a Dealers Price List there are more than one 5/8-18 castle nut listed, the axel nut is marked "Special"

Ron

[Charlie Stephens]

If you end up welding and rethreading or just rethreading to a smaller size be sure to run a brake drum retainer such as the one from Speedway http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Early-...iner,1981.html

If you replace the axle these retainers are still a good idea. Don't ask how I know.

Charlie Stephens