Drove my 53 Ford 700 miles with a fuel starvation problem, now I'm scratching my head

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by Chris

I am going to install an electric pump on a switch as well, will help with hot starts, cold starts after sitting a while, and if it ever vapor locks. Pretty inexpensive and easy to do.

Keep us in the loop on what you find. My pop has an in-line pump on his '32 for this same reason.

[Chris]

Originally Posted by Tim Ayers

Keep us in the loop on what you find. My pop has an in-line pump on his '32 for this same reason.

Will do. On my lunch I went to Antique Auto Ranch here in town. They have brand new fuel pump push rods. Mine was about 1/16" shorter, not a lot, but I picked a new one up anyways because you never know

[51 MERC-CT]

Originally Posted by Chris

So, I think I will double check the tank (The hole in pickup tube is a great idea I did not think to check for...still do not know how I will do that),

If the fuel level is low ( at the point where it won't run).
Add fuel, 5 gal. at a time to see if it will run at that point.

[flatford8]

Everything that the gas can and rubber line " by-passed" needs to be inspected carefully. I think you should diagnos the problem, not just replace parts. You said one piece of the steel line wasn't previously replaced because of the difficulty in changing it. I'd start my inspecting there. Is there splices in the line?.... Mark

[koates]

Chris, Your engine bay wiring could stand a little tidy up my friend. Regards, Kevin.

[Chris]

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Originally Posted by 51 MERC-CT

If the fuel level is low ( at the point where it won't run).
Add fuel, 5 gal. at a time to see if it will run at that point.

The problem is there whether the tank is full or not

[Chris]

Originally Posted by flatford8

Everything that the gas can and rubber line " by-passed" needs to be inspected carefully. I think you should diagnos the problem, not just replace parts. You said one piece of the steel line wasn't previously replaced because of the difficulty in changing it. I'd start my inspecting there. Is there splices in the line?.... Mark

There are a few splices. I put a new line in it and there is three pieces (counting the piece of old line) I could no replace.

[Chris]

Originally Posted by koates

Chris, Your engine bay wiring could stand a little tidy up my friend. Regards, Kevin.

The whole car could, really. But everything works as should. I took the old crumbing factory electrical tape off of those wires to replace one bad wire...need just tape it back up.

[FireEngineMike]

Go with an Airtex 8902 fuel pump if your car is still 6 volts. It does not need a pressure regulator. $34.97 at SummitRacing.com and available at other places.

[51 MERC-CT]

Originally Posted by Chris

The problem is there whether the tank is full or not

Then that sort'a takes a leak in the pickup tube out of the running.
Unless the tube is cracked or has a hole at the very top and was never filled to that level.

[Tim Ayers]

Wait, is the tank half full or half empty?



Kidding, fellas. Relax.

[Newc]

HI Chris; 96 louvers in that 54 hood now! A v8er locally sucked his fuel tank in... with a non-vented cap! Newc

[ford38v8]

Originally Posted by Chris

There are a few splices. I put a new line in it and there is three pieces (counting the piece of old line) I could no replace.

There should be no splices in the fuel line at all, unless there is an electric pump installed. Every splice offers another entry for air leaks in your supply line. It won't show a gas leak, just suck air only, which kills the efficiency of your pump. Only one flex line also. No part of the fuel line is inaccessible on the original Ford installation. I would rip out all the fuel lines, and install a single line as original.

[Chris]

Originally Posted by ford38v8

There should be no splices in the fuel line at all, unless there is an electric pump installed. Every splice offers another entry for air leaks in your supply line. It won't show a gas leak, just suck air only, which kills the efficiency of your pump. Only one flex line also. No part of the fuel line is inaccessible on the original Ford installation. I would rip out all the fuel lines, and install a single line as original.

I see your point. The problem is, these cars have the fuel line run on the outside of the frame rail, and near the rear axle, it goes up and over the frame between it and body. I cannot see how you could replace it without lifting the body. It is all VERY tight. I do not think you could even get the old line out without cutting it, let along bend and sneak a new line in. Has anyone with a 49-53 Ford ever replaced that portion successfully?

Side note (and not saying it is ok), I replace all fuel lines in all my cars with bulk pieces from the auto part store. That means there are a couple splices. I use only flared ends with couplers. I usually use a "break" in the line to use flared fittings (nipples) and install an inline fuel filter. I have never had a problem with fuel in any car until now. Maybe I've just been lucky? I never even thought about the idea of breaks in a line drawing air until it was mentioned on here. I just assumed if it was good enough for a hydraulic brake system, its good enough for a low pressure fuel system

[Chris]

On another note, last night I pulled the vent from the tank. These tanks have a little plunger type vent (kind of like a needle and seat), that with any pressure will push the plunger up and release any pressure. This one worked well, plunger moved with no problems. Only down fall is, they have a threaded bung that the screws screw into to hold the vent. It is crimped onto the tank. Mine fell off into the tank, the crimps had come loose. I can easily get it out, but getting it back where it needs to be will take some doing. I'm sure I can get it though. Aside from that hiccup, the tank looks great, pickup tube appears ok (I tried pressure testing it), vent looks ok...so I will get the tank back together and back in the car, and move forward to the fuel line.

This is an original tank I had cleaned (not coated), and I had the vent off of it when I did so and cleaned the vent out, made a new gasket, etc. I really feel confident that tank is not the issue.

[ford38v8]

Chris, I'll bite my tongue regarding the accessibility of your fuel line for replacement. I'd never done one on a postwar model, so I wasn't aware that the routing was not the same as prewar. There is a fuel line that may prove to be doable for you, however: I'm not sure of the brand name, but it is an alloy called Cunifer, does not rust, remains soft and easily bent by hand. Not cheap, but reportedly none better.

[Chris]

Originally Posted by ford38v8

Chris, I'll bite my tongue regarding the accessibility of your fuel line for replacement. I'd never done one on a postwar model, so I wasn't aware that the routing was not the same as prewar. There is a fuel line that may prove to be doable for you, however: I'm not sure of the brand name, but it is an alloy called Cunifer, does not rust, remains soft and easily bent by hand. Not cheap, but reportedly none better.

WOW! I just googled Cunifer, that line looks amazing! A 25' roll is 109.00...may be worth it. The ultra slick flaring tool is 350.00...but it sure looks like it works nice.

[Richard in Florida]

Originally Posted by Chris

The pump in the car is one I rebuilt, I think I will put a new pump on (35.00 from Rock Auto for a Carter) just for peace of mind.

Don't buy Chinese junk from anyone. Call Mike Casella at Then & Now Automotive at 781-335-8860. Or www.then-now.com.

Mike rebuilt a couple of pumps for me and they looked like jewelry. They worked great and the price was also excellent.

[Tim Ayers]

Also, our own Charlie NY is top notch too.

[adileo]

Originally Posted by Tim Ayers

Also, our own Charlie NY is top notch too.

2 Xs ^