39 Deluxe trunk handle lock cover spring replacement - how to?

[COE Dan]

Ford barners,

I've got a trunk handle for my '39 Deluxe that needs the lock cover spring replaced. Each handle has a teardrop shaped cover that has a metal pin about 3/4" long that holds it to the handle. The cover is spring loaded by a spring and metal collar mounted on the inside of the handle.

The spring has long since broken. I have a couple of replacement springs, pins and collars from Bob Drake.

However, the handle is one piece and the hole to access the pin from the inside of the handle is small.

How does one replace the spring?

Thanks,

COE Dan

[40cpe]

I did a '38 which is made the same except for the handle shape. I drilled the spot welds from around the perimeter of the base on the rear and removed the base. This exposes the spring. It also gave me the chance to get the lock cylinder out to get the number for a key.

I used flat headed metal screws in the drilled holes to reattach the back cover. I'm confident that a tig or mig could be used to close the holes but I was hesitant to use my arc welder for fear of overheating the stainless.

[G.M.]

I restored a 39 deluxe handle 28 years ago. I remember makeing the long rivet type pin from a brass welding rod. The handle stainless was all beat up with a lot of dents that I bought for $1.00. I just repaired it as a challenge. I used a very small aircraft torch with a pin point flame and went around the inside of the stainless where it rapped around the steel inner part. I was able to bring the wrapped SS up and remove the SS shell. I staightened the SS shell and buffed it. Put the shell back on, heated the edge and formed it back over the steel frame and buffed it again. It sounds difficult but if you have the skill to straighten the SS it suprised me how easy the SS shell came off and went back on. A small pin point flame is the important part. I still have the handle hanging on the wall. G.M.

[COE Dan]

Thanks, guys. Interesting, I have one handle with the welds drilled out but there's too much hole to bolt it back together and the screw heads don't clear the rim. I may try to weld it back together but I'm no welder. I have another handle that someone pried the SS cover off of but they didn't do it carefully and it may be salvageable but it will take some skill.

I've got a couple other ideas but I just wanted to see what others have done.

COE Dan

[40cpe]

let us know how you do it and how it works for you.

[COE Dan]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Here's what I'm thinking:

There is an access hole behind the pin. Lightly attach the brass collar to the end of a punch (maybe use white glue). Place the pin into the hole, place the spring over the pin inside then use the collar on the punch and drive it home. I don't know how tight the collar/pin interface is with the repros so I might add a drop of JB weld or epoxy to the collar before attempting so it doesn't pop off, say, out on the road.

I'll pass word if it works...

COE Dan

[nospartsman]

Did someone say 39 trunk handles? Here's some.
There are several ways to skin a cat. As long as the repair is effective and durable, there's no right way or wrong way, but there is always a easy way and a hard way. This is the method I have used several times when repairing 1939 trunk handles for sale, with slopping key covers.
To replace the spring on the flipper cover you need access. I achieve access by removing some of the material on the inside flange, so that I can get a needle nose pliers to remove the ferrule, install a spring and reattach the ferrule. I start by using a trimmed down hack saw blade making two parallel cuts at the top of inside flange about 5/8 in apart. Then to get the piece you want to remove to bend, I drill some small holes where I want it to break off, file the jagged edges and this will give you enough working room to get to the rivet to install the new spring and ferrule. It's a little time consuming but it's not too bad. Watch out for flying ferrules, work inside a cardboard box with arm holes. The tricky part is to swedge the end of the rivet after the ferrule is on. Use some locktite to be sure.
This has worked for me several times and there is no loss of structural integrity.

[COE Dan]

Thanks for the method, I've got a couple junk handles, maybe I'll try it first on one of those.

[cryobug]

I offer a service of replacing the lock cover springs and use a stainless pin I make. The only alterations make to the back of the handle is I make the hole in the back larger. The repair takes two plus hours so I need to get $100.00 per handle.
I can be contacted @ [email protected]