8BA distributor placement!

[AnthonyG]

Before having experience workin on my 35 in 2012 when I 1st tarted working on early fords I had no engine, after a bit of research I decided on an 8BA! Unwisely w no experience I thought it’d be neat even w a modern e-distributor to see if engine builder could put a crab distributor on front of engine instead of stock 8BA config w 90 degree gearing & having distributor on top of engine! PIA to work on! What’s involve to return to stock 8BA distributor location?

[cas3]

you're not supposed to work on it on the engine, 2 bolts take it off and then over to the work bench. "You can do it in the dark" Bruce Lancaster used to say ! But, you will need a cam with a gear for the 8ba dizzy, and a timing cover, and a chevy dizzy from Charle

[AnthonyG]

I was afraid of that! Shoulda, woulda, Coulda but had to be different!! Guess I’ll keep it as is! I’ve had it out a few times. Not up for pulling cam & the rest! Really just setting the timing that’s a pain. It’s easy enough to pull to work inside the distributor!
Thx for confirmation

[cas3]

If the timing is set on a distributor machine, I've never had to change anything, just bolt it on and go. I do not have any high tech high HP things like you show in your avatar though, so not much tuning involved.

[AnthonyG]

Mine is a Mallory electronic distributor that u loosen & turn on the slotted mounting areas clockwise or counter clockwise c wise to time w a timing light then tighten the mounting bolts similar to the Chevy Distributor u mentioned & most late 50’s 60’s & 70’s cars.

[cas3]

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The Ford distributors were designed by Mallory. The duel point design is about as good as it gets for perfect performance. very reliable when set up proper with good parts. About 10k miles was the thought for point replacement back when all cars had points, how many miles do you put on your old ford every year? Points when they get funky will run crappy to your garage, or like Bruce Lancaster said , you take em off in the dark and walk to a street light and check it out. Your electronic thing will fail and have you calling a tow truck. Not to mention the slotted hole timing requirements you mention. Get a stock crab and have Charle or 3rd gen rebuild it and get on to a different project.

[GB SISSON]

I have always kept a rebuilt backup distributor in my kit. Not cheap to have two rebuilt, but that way you never need the second one. We don't have streetlights and even if we did, I wouldn't understand the adjusting of two sets of points even in broad daylight.

[cas3]

GB, I would guess the reference to a street light is to see that you still have gap on the points. Common that a ruff cam or no lube will wear down the thingy that rubs on the cam, and a side of the road. adjustment will get you home. Headlights would work too, and a match book cover was the old school point gap gauge...got any of those onboard ?

[flatford8]

I’m an 8BA guy for the most part. I do have a stationary engine with a crab. I adjusted it according to Mac VanPelts site, with two 6” metal rulers. It seems to run fine on the stand but I’m not sure how it would go in a vehicle down the road.......Mark

[AnthonyG]

Cas3, I put maybe 1000 miles / yr on the ‘35 & have no real issues with the performance or longevity of the E-Dist. (Installed engine with in 2014). My only issue is accessibility while engine is running. I have no problem with points operated Dist. either, but engine was supplied with the E type. I have a 383 MOPAR & a 400 Olds engines with points & no probs either. If the job didn’t involve a new cam install & was simply bolt on to front of engine to get the later version 8BA right side top of engine Dist location I’d change it. But too many other projects need completing in my stable!
Thx all & I enjoyed reading replies!

[AnthonyG]

I checked on the parts needed to bring the front of the 8BA back to original config. Cam replace is about $250-$400, reconditioned epoxy painted timing cover about $50, Dist @ Speedway $160? Haven’t checked w Charlie on his Chevy conversion Dist. (Is that Charlie NY?) looks like about $600 to do. Gonna check around more for parts. Anyone have a street cam or Dist they wanna get rid of for a decent price?

[40cpe]

Others have mentioned using an adaptor to bolt to your camshaft to drive the 8BA distributor. Here is a recent discussion on the subject. Using one of them should save a lot of of work and expense if you decide to do it.

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2205627

[Bill OH]

I have a 221 with the helmet distributor and I have setup a timing pointer by the hard stop method ( that has been discussed many times on this site). I use a timing light to set the initial advance after I have removed the belt to have a look at the timing marks. I use a dwell meter to check the dwell. Your distributor is electronic and a dwell meter is not necessary. All makes for an easy method to get the engine in tune.

[AnthonyG]

40cpe, I like the idea. I’ll talk to some of the guys in that thread to see where to get that bolt on adapter gear for end of my cam that engage gear on Distributor!
Thx!