Cast Iron Heads....

[1936 ford pickup]

Hello,

I have a '46-'48 block and need to know which are the correct cast iron heads for it.

Cast iron heads that came on it were 59A/B on one side and 81A on other side.

Please let me know back, I am looking for a very very good condition set of cast iron heads for this '46-'48 block and just placed a WANTED add for them.

THANK YOU,

Bruce in Ca.

[Kube]

59 series heads are correct for your engine.

[1936 ford pickup]

THANK YOU Kube....

[Flatmotors]

To make sure your motor is a 59 A you have to make sure is has the “59” casting on the back of the block, then the correct heads are 59A/B. I have some heads I can ship if you would like.

[38 coupe]

Ford made both 59A and 59AB heads. If you are going for consistency use both of the same type on the engine, looks kinda funny to me when they are mixed.

[1936 ford pickup]

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Hello Flatmotors,

Thank you for your reply. Can you send several photos of the heads top and bottom side and let me know how much you want for them. You can email to me at [email protected]

THANK YOU,

Bruce in Modesto, Ca.

[1936 ford pickup]

Hello 38 coupe,

I agree with you that they look kinda funny when mixed.
The cast iron heads on my '46 - '48 engine were 59A/B on drivers side and 81A-6050 on Passenger side. I blew a head gasket so pulled both heads and had magna fluxed.
found 4 tiny cracks in passenger side head so want to replace both sides.

Bruce Smith in Ca.

[1936 ford pickup]

Hello to all here on Ford Barn,

My current situation for my '36 Ford pickup regarding heads is as follows....
I blew a head gasket so removed both heads and had magna fluxed only to find cracks in head. Purchased a new set of NAVARRO 59A/B heads and went to install only to find out some of the existing "studs" were not studs but pieces of all-thread rod. Some studs are too short now to accept the aluminum heads, washers and hex nuts. Whom knows who or what has been done to this engine over the past 75 years or so. My "fix" to this is take dial calipers to measure how much stud protrudes up beyond the spot face surface on head, calculate how much of the spot face surface needs to be counterbored. I can use a piloted counterbore for this. I was lucky to remove all 48 hex nuts with use of Heat Induction Tool but tried to remove several studs to no avail. Engine is still in pickup. Appreciate any thoughts back on this, thinking of possibly going back to cast iron heads to eliminate all this extra work and want to get pickup back on the road.

Bruce Smith
Modesto, Ca.

[blucar]

I would suggest the removal and replacement of all of the studs in your engine with correct studs..
I had Offy heads on the 59AB engine in my '36 for several years, was not a good experience for a street engine. My machinist modified a set of 59AB heads when the engine was rebuilt, much better application.

[TheFlatheadKid]

Forget the studs. Remove them and use grade 8 bolts with hardened washers and thread sealer!.

[tubman]

Originally Posted by TheFlatheadKid

Forget the studs. Remove them and use grade 8 bolts with hardened washers and thread sealer!.

I like bolts myself as well, but prefer to use good used original Ford bolts, not those wimpy 5/8" headed things.

Luckily, I have a large stash of original bolts to winnow through when I need a set.

[Ol' Ron]

Never used studs, just bolts torque to 45 ft lbs, for 3/4 heat cycles.
Gramps