Briggs Town Sedan door latch question

[cslandry]

The front passenger door latch on m '30 Briggs Town Sedan was sticky and droopy. I took it apart and cleaned and lubricated it, which took care of "sticky", but I still have "droopy." If the handle is horizontal, there is a gap in the actuating mechanism (first pic). The handle naturally droops down to close that gap (second pic). I've done some searching but can't find a picture of what this latch is supposed to look like. I understand that it could be worn, but that gap looks awfully big for just wear.

Anybody know what this should look like?

Thanks!

[Oldbluoval]

There is wear inside. Does it lift up to level and able to giggle it up and down to the lower droop? Usually takes welding and re-milling certain areas.
Could be a few other things. I’ve done many and that’s almost always the case.
It’s usually the drivers side as gets more use.

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by cslandry

The front passenger door latch on m '30 Briggs Town Sedan was sticky and droopy. I took it apart and cleaned and lubricated it, which took care of "sticky", but I still have "droopy." If the handle is horizontal, there is a gap in the actuating mechanism (first pic). The handle naturally droops down to close that gap (second pic). I've done some searching but can't find a picture of what this latch is supposed to look like. I understand that it could be worn, but that gap looks awfully big for just wear.

Anybody know what this should look like?

Thanks!

The gap may be a little excessive. Can you compare it to your other doors? I don't recall how much of a gap my Town Sedan latches had.

I can't see it in the pictures but do you have the spring and cups under the outside escutcheon? https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/p...8923&cat=41678 This may help hold the handle from "drooping" by causing tension on the shaft.

[cslandry]

I don't want to take the other doors apart to see if there is a gap, but I'm pretty sure there isn't because the latch starts to move as soon as you move the handle from horizontal. On this one, the handle moves maybe 30 degrees down from horizontal before the latch starts to move. Yes, the spring tension in the handle will usually hold it in the "up" position, but there's something not right here. It's almost like the square in the little actuating arm is in the wrong position, but I don't see how it could get like that.

[cslandry]

I could weld a piece onto the little actuating arm to fill the gap, but it seems like it's almost 1/4". Seems unlikely that it's that worn, which is why I was looking for a picture of what it's supposed to look like.

[cslandry]

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BTW, this is a "Swiss" latch

[Oldbluoval]

If the other handle doesn’t droop….its a mirror image of the one that does.

[cslandry]

I get that. I was just hoping someone had a picture of what it was supposed to look like so I didn't have to take the other door apart to see. The other side won't be an exact mirror image because this one has the key lock (separate from the handle) but I suspect the actuator part is the same.

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by cslandry

I get that. I was just hoping someone had a picture of what it was supposed to look like so I didn't have to take the other door apart to see.

I can certainly understand that. What a terrible design Ford came up with for installing the door panels. I have some door pictures but none so the latch in detail.

[J Franklin]

A good welder should be able to fix it in a few minutes.

[Oldbluoval]

JFrank…
Seriously? The latch has to be disassembled, wear repaired, new slide pin made , put back together and function. That particular latch is aggravating
Been there , done that

[nkaminar]

Looks like a warranty issue. Take it back to the Ford dealer.

[J Franklin]

Originally Posted by Oldbluoval

JFrank…
Seriously? The latch has to be disassembled, wear repaired, new slide pin made , put back together and function. That particular latch is aggravating
Been there , done that

It looks like the worn area just needs to be built up to level the handle. I see one rivet that needs to be removed if it can't be done in place. But then I haven't had to do one. I have built up brake roller tracks without removal with good results. I had a welder repair a wheel bearing cage without removing the rollers. Some things can be done, I would at least consider the option.

[cslandry]

To make it more interesting, it turns out this latch is NOT a mirror image of the one on the other side. Since it has the key lock below the handle and the others have the inside locking lever, the latches are different. So I'm dealing with a latch that may have only been used in one door of a Briggs-body sedan for one or two model years. Great!

Considering options to rework it, or leave it alone. Also, trying to see a couple of local similar cars for comparison.

[Ruth]

Originally Posted by cslandry

To make it more interesting, it turns out this latch is NOT a mirror image of the one on the other side. Since it has the key lock below the handle and the others have the inside locking lever, the latches are different. So I'm dealing with a latch that may have only been used in one door of a Briggs-body sedan for one or two model years. Great!

Considering options to rework it, or leave it alone. Also, trying to see a couple of local similar cars for comparison.

Since all Briggs fordor bodies are the same I would assume you have four model years to pick from. (except the very early ones)

[Oldbluoval]

Things got replaced in 90+ years..
Maybe (likely) not the original latch. I’ve never seen non-matching latches, etc in a original car…
Never say never