Upper Front floorboard reinforcements?

[Bullrhider]

I thought at one time I saw a photo/drawing of the dowel reinforcements of the upper floorboard in the foot pedal cutouts. I looked all over this site and can't find one. Does anyone have a good photo/drawing of the location and size of those reinforcements to post? Thanks!

[CT Jack]

See How to Restore a Modela Volume 2 Pages 82 & 83.
A 12/24 D-nut is commonly used to hold floorboards.

[The Master Cylinder]

Not sure I understand your question. Are you referring to the floorboard irons? https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/p...7802&cat=41699

[Bob C]

Here you go.

https://aafords.com/wp-content/uploa...5130-d1-q8.jpg

[JayJay]

My recollection is that Ford switched from doweled planks (Bob C's drawing) to plywood for the floorboards somewhere early in production??? My E30 Town Sedan (original floorboards until I replaced them, I believe) had plywood.

[Joe K]

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Originally Posted by JayJay

My recollection is that Ford switched from doweled planks (Bob C's drawing) to plywood for the floorboards somewhere early in production??? My E30 Town Sedan (original floorboards until I replaced them, I believe) had plywood.

The swap over from "dovetailed" board (so called Linderman Construction) to plywood was done more or less with the transfer to the 30-31 Models.

The boards (and their metal reinforcements) are pictured in the book "How to Restore Your Model A" Volume 6. page 36. (Article "Authentically Speaking" by Klein)

The Linderman construction seemingly was made up of "scraps", hardwood possibly ash or maple, and incorporated an edge/length dovetail that went the width of the board left to right. From extant boards of my ownership it's apparent that the construction was done "en-masse" with probably long planks of board material being made to width, and then floorboards cut from that. End-joints of the stock appear to have occurred with no planned regularity, but was probably determined more from the scrap that was available during the build-up.

I have considered "setting up" a router or three on tables to make Linderman stock. Once set and proved out by fit, it should be possible to create a fair quantity of boards in a short time. Probably take longer to prepare the "cut off ends" than the actual dovetailing.

Joe K

[Bullrhider]

PERFECT! Thank you!!

[CT Jack]

I used 3/4" thick marine plywood for my floorboards. This eliminates cracking without adding reenforcements.

[Bruce of MN]

Tom Wesenburg told me one time that the dovetail profile was slightly different from the usual router bit profiles but he found one that was right and used it to make a copy of the original floorboard.

It is odd that the dowel doesn't go deeper into the board edge as a reinforcement.

[Jim/GA]

Originally Posted by Bruce of MN

It is odd that the dowel doesn't go deeper into the board edge as a reinforcement.

The dowel is not reinforcing the joint as much as it is reinforcing the top wooden board where 2 deep notches have been cut into them. The narrow rectangular pieces to the left of the clutch pedal cutout and between the two pedal cutouts could potentially break along the grain that is running crosswise in the area. The dowel prevents that.

[Bruce of MN]

Originally Posted by Jim/GA

The dowel is not reinforcing the joint as much as it is reinforcing the top wooden board where 2 deep notches have been cut into them. The narrow rectangular pieces to the left of the clutch pedal cutout and between the two pedal cutouts could potentially break along the grain that is running crosswise in the area. The dowel prevents that.

Good point, thanks.

[Joe K]

Originally Posted by Bruce of MN

Tom Wesenburg told me one time that the dovetail profile was slightly different from the usual router bit profiles but he found one that was right and used it to make a copy of the original floorboard.

It is odd that the dowel doesn't go deeper into the board edge as a reinforcement.

This is where "sectioning" an original board might come in handy - and some investigations with the "high-end" router bit producers.

Popular among the colonial furniture reproducers are "dovetail joints" at the corners of casework. Not satisfied with the manual skill and time necessary to produce these with a back-saw and chisel, there became a demand for "more colonial" dovetail cutters produced at angles not then available - which the high end producers were eventually happy to provide.

Most of these high end sources are still around. I can't recall a source name offhand, but I get their catalogs and probably will continue to long beyond my passing.

Joe K