The Ford Barn

Slik · 10-26-2014, 09:12 AM

After several weeks of soaking with a combination of ATF, MMO and Acetone, The block is freed and turns as easy as butter. OK I had to stand on the hand crank to get it to initially turn but once it past that sticking point, a 1 3/4 socket and breaker bar, a couple of rotations and we're spinning with easy again. All tappets moving fine, cylinders look good (no scarring or even scratches). Overall I'm happy with the results. What I'm not particularly happy with is the fact that I'm not going to get much of a chance to work on this for potentially several months (gotta pay the bills and putzing in the garage isn't going to do that).
I'm buttoning the engine back up for now. My ultimate goal is to pull the engine and go over it all but just not going to get to it right now.
My questions : Yesterday I was putting the valves and guides back in. Valves had less then a hundred miles on them and look fine. Guides are two piece - had a little crude on them but cleaned up fine with MMO and a soft wire brush. When I hold the two pieces of guides around the stem of the valve it slides smoothly (I matched guide and value when I took them out). But when I inserted the guides and valves back in the block, the valves seem to be really tight - to the point where they have to be pried up and tapped back down. They move up with the tappets but not down. Mind you, I haven't put the springs or retainers on them, but if I try to lift the valve up - it isn't happening. No scarring on stem or burrs in guides - nothing to indicate where they are sticking.
Is this normal ? Ultimately, when I pull the engine to rebuild it I plan on new valves, guides, springs etc.... I'm just trying to determine if what I'm seeing now with the valves being this tight is normal (for future reference). I guess I was expecting them to slide up and down easily........

Slik · 10-26-2014, 09:13 AM

I swear I had indentations and paragraphs in the post .......

MikeK · 10-26-2014, 09:31 AM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

No, not normal. They should move with one finger. You may have gotten the matched pair halves mixed. In any case, upon R&R the seats will need to be re-lapped and checked for full contact.

About your second post- You can click on 'edit' at the bottom of your own posts and fix things after-the-fact. One of the niceties of V-bulletin boards. Clicking "preview" before the initial submission also gives you a heads-up on what things will look like.

10-26-2014, 09:12 AM	#1
Slik Member Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: La Plata, MD Posts: 60	Sticky valves After several weeks of soaking with a combination of ATF, MMO and Acetone, The block is freed and turns as easy as butter. OK I had to stand on the hand crank to get it to initially turn but once it past that sticking point, a 1 3/4 socket and breaker bar, a couple of rotations and we're spinning with easy again. All tappets moving fine, cylinders look good (no scarring or even scratches). Overall I'm happy with the results. What I'm not particularly happy with is the fact that I'm not going to get much of a chance to work on this for potentially several months (gotta pay the bills and putzing in the garage isn't going to do that). I'm buttoning the engine back up for now. My ultimate goal is to pull the engine and go over it all but just not going to get to it right now. My questions : Yesterday I was putting the valves and guides back in. Valves had less then a hundred miles on them and look fine. Guides are two piece - had a little crude on them but cleaned up fine with MMO and a soft wire brush. When I hold the two pieces of guides around the stem of the valve it slides smoothly (I matched guide and value when I took them out). But when I inserted the guides and valves back in the block, the valves seem to be really tight - to the point where they have to be pried up and tapped back down. They move up with the tappets but not down. Mind you, I haven't put the springs or retainers on them, but if I try to lift the valve up - it isn't happening. No scarring on stem or burrs in guides - nothing to indicate where they are sticking. Is this normal ? Ultimately, when I pull the engine to rebuild it I plan on new valves, guides, springs etc.... I'm just trying to determine if what I'm seeing now with the valves being this tight is normal (for future reference). I guess I was expecting them to slide up and down easily........ Last edited by Slik; 10-26-2014 at 09:34 AM.

10-26-2014, 09:13 AM	#2
Slik Member Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: La Plata, MD Posts: 60	Re: Sticky valves I swear I had indentations and paragraphs in the post .......

10-26-2014, 09:31 AM	#3
MikeK Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Windy City Posts: 2,919	Re: Sticky valves Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) No, not normal. They should move with one finger. You may have gotten the matched pair halves mixed. In any case, upon R&R the seats will need to be re-lapped and checked for full contact. About your second post- You can click on 'edit' at the bottom of your own posts and fix things after-the-fact. One of the niceties of V-bulletin boards. Clicking "preview" before the initial submission also gives you a heads-up on what things will look like.