New Radius (wishbone) Arm

[Tom Cavallaro]

Finally found a radius arm to replace the old one. Painted all the parts as I cleaned them, and I am now putting everything back together. Now it seems that the water pump decided to start leaking at the adjustable nut. I tightened it but still drips. Is there a packing I can put in, or does it just need to be rebuilt? Also, the old radius arm had the rubber ball. Should I replace the ball or just use the washer if needed. I believe this is what controls the castor measurements, and maybe I don’t even need the washer at all. What say all you?
Thanks, Tom

[Dana Barlow]

grease and part of lether belt can work too for ball,but rubber caps can be got now

[Tom Wesenberg]

You'll need to replace the oversized caps and the rubber cover to put the radius ball back to the original way it was built. I always do this when I come across the rubber cover repair. Grease the ball with Mystik JT-6 high temp grease.

For the water pump I've had a leakess pump for the past 10 years by using the lead packing rings and grease. Be sure to grease the lead rings well during installation, then run the engine and retighten the collar as needed. After an hour running time I retightened the collar and haven't touched it since. All future pump rebuilds will include a new rear bushing with the double lip seal. This will keep the antifreeze seperate from the grease, and along with the lead rings will provide double protection against any leaks. I use the original front bearing, and give it a shot of grease when I grease the chassis.

[Tom Cavallaro]

Is replacing the ball caps an extensive job or relatively easy?

[Mikeinnj]

Tom, the rubber ball and the washer are "fix's" for a worn ball on the front radius arm. You need to inspect the ball and see if it is out of round or undersize. If not worn, use all original type parts to replace what you took off. If worn go with the rubber ball kit or washers. Brattons Catalog - http://www.brattons.com/prodtype.asp...earchCriteria=

[Fred K-OR]

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Originally Posted by Tom Cavallaro

Is replacing the ball caps an extensive job or relatively easy?

It is fairly easy, if you have a body that can crawl under the car or have jack stands to lift it up a bit.

The above advise if great but it may be good to look in one of the books to make sure you do it the correct way. Books could be the Andrews book etc.

[Tom Cavallaro]

The new wishbone must be real good because I can't get the ball over the nob. So I will order the new set as original. The pin holding the bolts in place was bent??? Must have taken a good shot at one time. Looks tough changing the bolts through that small hole...any tricks for a guy with fat fingers...lol Thanks guys, Tom

[1931 flamingo]

There was a discussion on this a while back. Try using the "search" function.
Paul in CT

[Jerry Parr WI]

Model A's did not originally use the rubber ball. Ford changed to the rubber ball in 1932 and used it until 48. Ford had a repair cap to use the rubber ball on Model A's after the original parts were no longer available.

[BillLee/Chandler, TX]

Originally Posted by Tom Cavallaro

Is replacing the ball caps an extensive job or relatively easy?

Tom, I just did this on my Tudor. See my club website at http://www.CedarCreekAs.org and follow the link to the TechTopics. A write-up there.

It's an easy job.

[duke36]

assume the shim cup washer goes on top of ball due to grease hole ?

[macdonge]

I believe the hole in the washer is to make it easier to conform to the curvature of the cup. I prefer to have the washer on the bottom so it has less tendency (due to gravity) to ´go for a walk´ inside the cavity.

[macdonge]

Use a good magnet-on-a-stick to avoid dropping the old bolts inside the housing as you are removing them. To install the new bolts, use a length of safety wire with a noose under the head of the bolt so you can fish it up and then down again once aligned with the hole. Using that magnet again, from the bottom, helps catch the end of the bolt. Once home (with a nut on the end), you then pull the safety wire away from the head of the bolt. Hope this helps.

[duke36]

when springs compressed and cotters installed , how much gap should there be between the top and bottom clamping plates assuming the radius ball is to spec ? another recent thread says about 1/4" and looks to be about that in the cedar creek.org photo.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by duke36

when springs compressed and cotters installed , how much gap should there be between the top and bottom clamping plates assuming the radius ball is to spec ? another recent thread says about 1/4" and looks to be about that in the cedar creek.org photo.

If I remember correctly the ball is 1 1/2", so just lay a straight edge across each cap and measure the depth. Add those two numbers together and subtract from 1 1/2" to get the gap with a perfect ball.

I figure if the gap is 1/8" or more I'm good for a long time. Grease the ball When you assemble it.

[CT Jack]

Take a piece of 1/2 plywood and drill a smooth 1-1/2" diameter hole with a wood boring bit. Use this as a gauge to detemine where the wear is and how much.