leading question

[34ragtop]

i have most of the bodywork done on my 34 and am planning on using lead for some of the areas. my question is i need to build up the beltline and i want something straight to build the lead up against. can i use a piece of copper? i am assuming the lead wont stick to it. or should i use something else thanks tom

[1931 flamingo]

Old timers would "build" it up on the metal. Or do you mean using the copper like a shelf?? Worked with an old timer that could do wonders with lead "once upon a time in a land far far away".
Paul in CT

[Ken Crans]

34,That will work. Use the copper as a shelf, then when you start filing make some tape lines along the beltline to guide as your filing.I leaded my wifes whole truck, hardly any filler. Ken

[flatjack9]

The lead will adhere to the copper if it is cleaned and tinned.

[DavidG]

It sure will adhere. All of those Tiffany Studio lamps (and the thousands of knockoffs) are held together with soldered copper foil (wrapped around the edges of the glass). And then there is the more widespread example of how the various pieces of copper plumbing are held together.

[G.M.]

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34 you don't need copper unless you plan on leaving embeded in the lead. If you do that you need to clean and tin it. Any place you use lead the surface has to be cleaned real good in every little nick and crevis and tinned with flux and the lead. You need a soft flame to control the heat. There is a tip with a short rubber hose to hold it on a welding tip.With this you only use gas, the air is sucked in from holes in the new tip held on as part of the hose. You will need a flat wood lead paddle and a rounded one if you have some inside curves. You will also need wax that you heat and coat the face of the paddle so the lead don't stick and the paddle slides freely over the lead. I believe Eastwood has the tip and all the supplies. After the surface is tinned you heat the tinned metal and hold the end of the lead bar against the slightly melting tin as you heat the lead for about an inch up the bar. The lead will start to to softly crumple into the tinned surface. Let the stubbles of lead stick out don't try to smooth it yet. Put as much lead on in this maner as will be required to fill the area. Now take the paddle, heat the lead watching the color and as it starts to kind of shine and starts to move level out with the paddle. Keep the end of the torch back and if it starts to sag pull the torch back and spread the lead dipping the paddle in the wax once in a while. Don't get it to hot or it will run off and to cold it will start to pull and crumble. You can spread this like butter once you learn to control the heat. I used 100s of pounds on hot rods back in the 40s. In some areas a good body filler is maybe better than lead if properly used. G.M.

[BillM]

After you tin the area to be leaded the flux needs to be cleaned off completely or it will bubble up through the paint later. With the body filler products in use now there is little need for lead; except for bragging rights.

[FlatheadTed]

I wouldn't use copper as a guide you should be able to build up the Led wider than whats needed then file it back as well as using the file to create a aligned edge ,When you tin the job you stick some led to it then wipe the led over when its in it plastic state with a rag ,If you get a skin were the led is not stuck this can be a rust cavity .For a novas this could be difficult to do ,Another option is to use a filler as has been said ,You use a magnetic strip, or tape something on to guide you if the under side of the bead is straight use that ..Here are 3 shots of a card board spreader you can make ,One i used the other day as a guide I cut notches on each side to Aline a swag /Bead . you make it more square than whats needed then sand it into shape .This could be made in Aluminum as well this gives a nice straight line .

[flatmotor40]

I used the Eastwood lead free solder on all my cars and it works geat and you can sand it with a sander along with the body files it cost a little more but the health issues make it ok

[flatmotor40]

I meant to say that Eastwood has the flex tip to use just acelene instead of oxy and it gives the soft blue flame.worth it I started with the kit from them with the solder paste and flux,files and DVD