The Ford Barn

Tom Endy · 12-14-2012, 12:37 PM

There is a grooved half circle aluminum oil slinger that fits around the rear of the crank in the engine block. I am not familiar with this part, and am not sure exactly where it fits, but I have been told to only use an original and never use a reproduction as they do not fit correctly.

A fellow club member is having an engine rebuilt and was told by the engine shop that the original slinger is missing from his block.

Bratton's shows this part in their catalog on page 40 as part number 8960.

Can anyone comment on this.

Tom Endy

PC/SR · 12-14-2012, 01:34 PM

Had the same problem. You can use the repo, but you probably have to file down the sides to fit. My babbitt guy would not put it in because he was afraid it might break off the block casting. You want it finger press in snug, or light tapping at most, not drive it in. Be sure the ends are dead flat even with the block or you will have an oil leak. Light filing will do it.

Purdy Swoft · 12-14-2012, 01:37 PM

The slinger is part of the crankshaft. I always use an original part. If the so called aluminum seal is driven in too far it will leave a gap and cause an oil leak. the seal (aluminum part) needs to be perfectly even with the surface of the block on both sides where the rear main cap mates. If the seal is not evenly flush with the block on both sides, remove and re set.

Tom Wesenberg · 12-14-2012, 02:45 PM

With the number of blocks that have been scrapped I'd think some originals would be available. I'd try Bert's 800-321-1931

Tom Endy · 12-14-2012, 04:03 PM

My thanks to all that responded. I did contact Bert's in Denver and an original rear seal is in the mail to me.

Tom Endy

Kohnke Rebabbitting · 12-14-2012, 06:24 PM

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Many times when the crank takes out the rear main, the Aluminum slinger that is in it gets wore, and then when you fix the babbit, and put the crank back where it belongs, there is a bigger slot for oil to get through.

Do not take to much off the ends of a new slinger, as it will make the 1/2 circle smaller, and the crank will cut into the new slinger, and will also give you some unwanted Aluminum grindings in your engine.

Tap the slinger lightly in to the block, with a small hammer and keep removing it to see where it is wedging at, until it is seated. The ends should be put on 80 grit paper, on a level surafce, and trued, but I have never been able to get one perfect, as there in not much left to work with, but it will seal when you ATV the shims.

Put ATV in the slinger groove, and set the slinger. I then use the rear main cap to set the seal height, bolt it tight, and leave it over night.

Jim Brierley · 12-15-2012, 11:49 AM

I've seen slingers that don't fit the block very well. This can be corrected by squeezing it in a vice. Measure carefully as you go. Do not try this on a B slinger as they are made of pot metal and will easily break. The original A slinger is made of aluminum. e-mail me if you want a photo.

Dick Deegan · 12-15-2012, 01:05 PM

I just replaced the aluminium "seal" while doing a refresh on my engine. Engine was out of the car. I used a repro seal and as indicated above, it didn't fit. I ease it into the groove by lightly pounding on the two ends protruding out of the block and then checked by replacing the crank to ensure that the slinger did not scrape on the seal. And then filed to get it as close to the level of the block as I could. It took quite a lot of filing. Aluminium is not as easy to file as you may think. I didn't use any ATV anywhere on the rear main. Perhaps I should have. Engine is back in the car and leaks from the rear main are minimal.

Dick

12-14-2012, 12:37 PM	#1
Tom Endy Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Southern California Posts: 3,131	Rear Main Oil Seal There is a grooved half circle aluminum oil slinger that fits around the rear of the crank in the engine block. I am not familiar with this part, and am not sure exactly where it fits, but I have been told to only use an original and never use a reproduction as they do not fit correctly. A fellow club member is having an engine rebuilt and was told by the engine shop that the original slinger is missing from his block. Bratton's shows this part in their catalog on page 40 as part number 8960. Can anyone comment on this. Tom Endy

12-14-2012, 01:34 PM	#2
PC/SR Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Santa Rosa, CA Posts: 1,279	Re: Rear Main Oil Seal Had the same problem. You can use the repo, but you probably have to file down the sides to fit. My babbitt guy would not put it in because he was afraid it might break off the block casting. You want it finger press in snug, or light tapping at most, not drive it in. Be sure the ends are dead flat even with the block or you will have an oil leak. Light filing will do it.

12-14-2012, 01:37 PM	#3
Purdy Swoft Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Alabama Posts: 8,099	Re: Rear Main Oil Seal The slinger is part of the crankshaft. I always use an original part. If the so called aluminum seal is driven in too far it will leave a gap and cause an oil leak. the seal (aluminum part) needs to be perfectly even with the surface of the block on both sides where the rear main cap mates. If the seal is not evenly flush with the block on both sides, remove and re set.

12-14-2012, 02:45 PM	#4
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: Rear Main Oil Seal With the number of blocks that have been scrapped I'd think some originals would be available. I'd try Bert's 800-321-1931

12-14-2012, 04:03 PM	#5
Tom Endy Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Southern California Posts: 3,131	Re: Rear Main Oil Seal My thanks to all that responded. I did contact Bert's in Denver and an original rear seal is in the mail to me. Tom Endy

12-14-2012, 06:24 PM	#6
Kohnke Rebabbitting Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: 60615,330th Ave.,Clare, Iowa, 50524 Posts: 1,457	Re: Rear Main Oil Seal Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Many times when the crank takes out the rear main, the Aluminum slinger that is in it gets wore, and then when you fix the babbit, and put the crank back where it belongs, there is a bigger slot for oil to get through. Do not take to much off the ends of a new slinger, as it will make the 1/2 circle smaller, and the crank will cut into the new slinger, and will also give you some unwanted Aluminum grindings in your engine. Tap the slinger lightly in to the block, with a small hammer and keep removing it to see where it is wedging at, until it is seated. The ends should be put on 80 grit paper, on a level surafce, and trued, but I have never been able to get one perfect, as there in not much left to work with, but it will seal when you ATV the shims. Put ATV in the slinger groove, and set the slinger. I then use the rear main cap to set the seal height, bolt it tight, and leave it over night.

12-15-2012, 11:49 AM	#7
Jim Brierley Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Temecula, CA Posts: 4,089	Re: Rear Main Oil Seal I've seen slingers that don't fit the block very well. This can be corrected by squeezing it in a vice. Measure carefully as you go. Do not try this on a B slinger as they are made of pot metal and will easily break. The original A slinger is made of aluminum. e-mail me if you want a photo.

12-15-2012, 01:05 PM	#8
Dick Deegan Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 527	Re: Rear Main Oil Seal I just replaced the aluminium "seal" while doing a refresh on my engine. Engine was out of the car. I used a repro seal and as indicated above, it didn't fit. I ease it into the groove by lightly pounding on the two ends protruding out of the block and then checked by replacing the crank to ensure that the slinger did not scrape on the seal. And then filed to get it as close to the level of the block as I could. It took quite a lot of filing. Aluminium is not as easy to file as you may think. I didn't use any ATV anywhere on the rear main. Perhaps I should have. Engine is back in the car and leaks from the rear main are minimal. Dick