When The Choke Is Pulled......

[Sooner]

When the choke is pulled, does it also open a gas jet? In other words, is there a danger of flooding the engine by prolonged use of the choke?

This is on a Tillotson F1B Carb, with the rounded bowl and the power jet.

Thanks!

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

No jet involved, just give one quick choke & that's enough. Dripping under carb after choking is normal. Bill W.

[Tudortomnz]

As Bill has said, a quick pull / release of the choke is only needed [ mine has a Zenith] & she will fire on the release. If not, something is not right.

[Sooner]

Sometimes the engine fires right up, the very next day it may take 20 seconds of cranking.

I'm getting ready to replace points, plugs and condensor, hoping that will fix whatever is wrong.

Fuel tank has just been flushed, and a rebuilt carb installed, so I'm hoping the problems is on the ignition side.

Also wondering if I've been choking it too long?

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Sooner

Sometimes the engine fires right up, the very next day it may take 20 seconds of cranking.

I'm getting ready to replace points, plugs and condensor, hoping that will fix whatever is wrong.

Fuel tank has just been flushed, and a rebuilt carb installed, so I'm hoping the problems is on the ignition side.

Also wondering if I've been choking it too long?

Whoa!
Before throwing parts at it, it's best to diagnose to see if the part is bad. Also, if you are wondering if you are choking it too long, then you are. Pull the choke for no more than about 2 engine revolutions, then release it. Have the spark lever full up while cranking and have the throttle lever down a few notches. Key on and gas turned on, and it should fire right up.

[Banky]

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Took me a while to get this right as well. Had the choke open way to long, which is only about 4 seconds. Gas is to expensive to pour is all over my garage floor

[Dave Mc]

Hard starting can also be too much advance on the timing,with the car running and the Spark Lever Up ,you should not be able to Rev the engine,if you can the the Timing is too far advanced,

[Sooner]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Whoa!
Before throwing parts at it, it's best to diagnose to see if the part is bad. Also, if you are wondering if you are choking it too long, then you are. Pull the choke for no more than about 2 engine revolutions, then release it. Have the spark lever full up while cranking and have the throttle lever down a few notches. Key on and gas turned on, and it should fire right up.

All of the ignition system components are at least 40 years old, so I was going to change them out anyway and if it fixes this problem, so be it.

I guess I'm trying to figure out if there is a direct relationship between engaging the choke too long and flooding the engine.

Learning a lot from you guys. Thanks for your help!

[Sooner]

Originally Posted by Dave Mc

Hard starting can also be too much advance on the timing,with the car running and the Spark Lever Up ,you should not be able to Rev the engine,if you can the the Timing is too far advanced,

Dave, now that you mentioned it, I watched a Youtube video of Les Andrews describing how the advance lever (not the correct name, but you know what I mean) should be hitting each side of the notch in the distributor when either fully retarded or fully advanced.

It hits when fully retarded, but not when fully advanced, so I'm thinking I should be able to retard it even more, and that may be part of the problem.

When I change out the ignition componets I'll rotate the steering column and get the timing set correctly and hopefully that will help this starting problem.

[Marco Tahtaras]

Originally Posted by Sooner

All of the ignition system components are at least 40 years old, so I was going to change them out anyway and if it fixes this problem, so be it.

I guess I'm trying to figure out if there is a direct relationship between engaging the choke too long and flooding the engine.

Learning a lot from you guys. Thanks for your help!

Age doesn't necessarily mean a thing. If the point contacts are badly pitted or the rubbing block worn way down then change the points. If not they are likely better than some new ones.

Yes, holding the choke keeps feeding raw gas and will soon flood. When Tom says "two revolutions" I suspect what he really means it two compression strokes which you can easily hear and feel. Errrum...Errrum... and release. And that is for stone cold only.

[Richard Wilson]

Also might be as simple as filing or sandpapering the points and resetting the points gap.

[Willie Krash]

I agree with Tom. Throwing parts a it and you'll dig a hole. Be careful of too many variables you add into the equation.
I have a model T that always started a little differently. It took a few months to figure out what it wanted and me to learn. It starts readily now. You are on the right track by asking questions. There are some great books out there and those by Ford and collectors (Tinkering Tips type) are invaluable. Old cars can be funny, they have personalities.

[TudooR31]

Took me a while to get that quick open & close of the choke to get the engine to fire. I also found quicker cold starting on mine by turning the GAV counter-clockwise almost one full turn, then closing it gradually as the car warms up. I go over the whole gas-on, retard-up, throttle-down, key-on, start-foot-button, choke-open/close, retard/advance, throttle-up, GAV procedure with new passengers just to see the amazement grow on their faces. Then I tell them the dashboard is also the gas tank.

[marc hildebrant]

When I first got my Model A, I thought that it worked like a "modern" car where you choked it until it started, then removed the choke.

I found that the model A would flood easily, even when cold.

As others have said, two "burps" and I release the choke. Starts EVERY time, even when very cold.

Marc

[Fred K-OR]

If you have choked it to much and nothing happens, try pulling the gas (throttle) lever 1/2 way down or so for a few cranking revolutions. Sometimes this clears up the flooded problem.