Weird fuel issue keeping me from driving my coupe. Any ideas?

[Pilotdave]

Originally Posted by Pilotdave

With a 12v system, the coil should have an internal resistance of 3.8 (typo - s/b 2.8)-3.2 ohms for a 4 cylinder engine. Most sold have two little internal resistance as they are designed for 6 or 8 cylinder engines. The ballast resister you're using MAY be in there to raise the resistance to the right level, but you'd be better off dumping it and making sure that you have the proper resistance coil.

Since posting this I've become better educated, prompted by a PM from tbirdtbird. The coil does not "care" about the number of cylinders in the engine. I'd like to replace the quoted material above with the following taken from an old coil conversion chart:

"The coil is the only component of the ignition system affected when converting from 6 to 12 volts. Like the ammeter, the wires on the coil must be reversed. This means the negative (-) terminal of the coil is the one that connects to the distributor, while the positive (+) terminal connects to the ignition switch. Also, for the system to operate properly, the coil must also have the correct resistance value for use with 12 volts. Since there are several ways to accomplish this, there seems to be considerable confusion surrounding coil selection. Most of the confusion comes in when referring to “6 volt” coils versus “12 volt “ coils and the accompanying ballast resistor that is sometimes used. The important point to remember is:

The total resistance of the coil plus any external resistor (if used) should be 2.7 to 3.3 ohms for a 12 volt system. This level of resistance will maintain the correct voltage and amperage in the ignition circuit. Coil resistance is measured between the plus (+) and minus (-) terminals.

Most original equipment 6 volt coils are about 1.2 ohms, while most original equipment 12 volt coils are about 1.5 ohms. In order to get to the 2.7 to 3.3 ohm requirement, a ballast resistor (Approx. 1.8 ohm) can be added to these type coils. Another approach is to eliminate the ballast resistor altogether by using a replacement coil with 3.0 ohms of resistance internally."

I prefer using a 3 ohm coil and eliminating the ballast resister - one less part to fail!

[AL in NY]

Apparently the problem fixed itself. "carbed87" hasn't posted since February 3nd!!!!!!!!!!!!

[burner31]

If you have an inline fuel filter...loose it.

[Leon Parker]

Check your gas cap. My have a plug in the vent hole of the cap.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by burner31

If you have an inline fuel filter...loose it.

Actually the style you show is very non-restrictive and should work fine on gravity feed systems.

I find the factory sediment bulb, carb filter, and the pencil filter in the shut off valve do all the filtering I need, and work great together.