05-22-2016, 06:27 PM | #1 |
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Location: Wichita Kansas
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36 hub repair
I need some advice from the experts. The right rear hub on my roadster has some movement that concerns me. Everything is new and in great shape as well as the spindle nut torqued to 220lbs and well as torqued after 50 miles. I am assuming the taper on the hub and the axle are wore differently. Is there a good repair or shims to repair this problem?
Thanks in advance! (1936 ford rear) Walter |
05-22-2016, 07:18 PM | #2 |
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Re: 36 hub repair
Walter, There are shims available, but if you have driven 50 miles and can observe movement, I am concerned that your axle may be damaged beyond repair. The taper is one thing of concern, but the movement itself can cause a crack in the axle at the inner end of the keyway. If you remove the hub and look closely, a tiny crack now is definitely going to cause you to lose a wheel, which is dangerous as well as costly.
Look at the key itself for a possible cause of the movement also. An incorrect key or incorrect placement of the key will prevent proper contact between taper and hub. The key may also show signs of wear, which would be expected in this case. The key should never take the load, always the fit of the taper itself. If repairable and with no crack apparent at the keyway, use a flat file to remove taper burrs, and with grinding compound within, mount the hub without the key. The axle nut should be just tight enough to be able to spin the hub by hand, thereby matching hub to taper with the compound. It will not take long to mate the two. Be sure to clean off all the compound, as any left in there can damage your bearings as well as prevent good taper contact.
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05-22-2016, 07:37 PM | #3 |
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Re: 36 hub repair
sounds like good advise. I will hopefully get it torn down in the next couple of weeks. I will let you know the outcome.
Thanks |
05-22-2016, 09:17 PM | #4 |
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Re: 36 hub repair
It's possible that the axle key was not located properly in the axle/hub keyway and this prevented the tapers from coming together and locking when the 200 to 220 ft lbs of torque was applied to the axle nut.
When you get this torn down, think about taking and posting some closeup pictures here of the tapered areas on the axle and hub so we can take a look and maybe see what you have going on there. ps...I am no expert on these for sure, but I have built/rebuilt my share of Ford banjo rears, and in fact, I am rebuilding one now for my Avatar 35 fordor, and I know things can go wrong during these assemblies no matter how many you have done prevously. Sometimes it gets frustrating, but that's just all part of the "fun" of owning these great old cars .
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John "Never give up on what you really want to do. The person with big dreams is more powerful than one with all the facts". Albert Einstein Last edited by JM 35 Sedan; 05-23-2016 at 01:05 PM. Reason: add a ps |
05-23-2016, 08:39 PM | #5 |
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Re: 36 hub repair
Thanks again. I orderd a hub puller today so I should have it by Friday and then I will post pictures.
Thanks |
05-23-2016, 09:21 PM | #6 |
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Re: 36 hub repair
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John "Never give up on what you really want to do. The person with big dreams is more powerful than one with all the facts". Albert Einstein |
05-23-2016, 10:41 PM | #7 |
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Re: 36 hub repair
that's the one. I talked to John @ All Ford and he said they quit making them and only had 3 left so I ordered one as well as some shims and new keys. I really like those guys. Not cheep but seems to be good parts.
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05-27-2016, 10:08 PM | #8 |
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Re: 36 hub repair
Update!!! I woke up this morning and realized that I did not check the very basics. Pulled the hub cap and saw metallic dust. I got to checking and it appears the wheel is loose. I have not finished inspection but I think the wheel may have worn lug holes so it is not seating correctly. It appears that the hub is great. I may need to find another wheel.
Walter |
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