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01-27-2020, 01:53 PM | #1 |
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Intake manifold getting hot
What would cause my intake manifold to get so hot it's discoloring the paint?
This is something new, it's gotten warm but never this hot before.
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Keith Shawnee OK '31 SW 160-B |
01-27-2020, 01:56 PM | #2 |
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Re: Intake manifold getting hot
A burnt or warped intake valve might do that. A bad exhaust gasket leaking on it might also.
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01-27-2020, 02:41 PM | #3 |
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Re: Intake manifold getting hot
Paint cannot withstand normal exhaust manifold operating temperatures. Try using stove black. Its a coating used on pot belly stoves of olden days.
A manifold that glows red hot is indicative of a retarded spark advance / ignition timing.
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Bob Bidonde |
01-27-2020, 02:47 PM | #4 |
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Re: Intake manifold getting hot
I just rebuilt the distributor, so a "retarded spark advance / ignition timing" may be an issue, I'll have to revisit my work and settings.
And it sounds better then a "burnt or warped intake valve", I'll keep my fingers crossed. Thanks guys...
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Keith Shawnee OK '31 SW 160-B |
01-27-2020, 03:07 PM | #5 |
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Re: Intake manifold getting hot
weak mixture- air leak?
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01-27-2020, 03:21 PM | #6 |
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Re: Intake manifold getting hot
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Tom Endy |
01-27-2020, 03:28 PM | #7 |
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Re: Intake manifold getting hot
The rubbing block on new points wear and the gap reduces . When the points gap gets less than eighteen thousands the engine will soon begin not to run as well . Points gap effects timing . Less gap retards , more gap advances . Even slightly retarded operation will cause the manifolds to run hotter .
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01-27-2020, 03:36 PM | #8 |
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Re: Intake manifold getting hot
Yep, new points and everything else, I'll check and reset everything, I have been known to enjoy a beer now and then while working on the old girl, so I could've goofed something.
I'll let you all know how it turns out, going to rain tonight/tomorrow so may be a few days.
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Keith Shawnee OK '31 SW 160-B |
01-27-2020, 04:14 PM | #9 |
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Re: Intake manifold getting hot
Take a different condenser and connect it to the passenger side of the coil and ground. See if the engine runs better. If it does, change the condenser. Easy to try.
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01-27-2020, 07:56 PM | #10 |
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Re: Intake manifold getting hot
Put some Vaseline on the points cam to retard point block wear.
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01-28-2020, 08:27 AM | #11 |
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Re: Intake manifold getting hot
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01-28-2020, 11:24 AM | #12 | |
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Re: Intake manifold getting hot
Quote:
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01-28-2020, 12:35 PM | #13 | |
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Re: Intake manifold getting hot
Quote:
What Purdy said was true. We can change change our timing with a click or two of the lever, but, there comes a point of no return. There is a reason to set points before the timing. |
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01-28-2020, 12:36 PM | #14 |
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Re: Intake manifold getting hot
Old31, it does not bypass it, it just adds a known good condenser.
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01-28-2020, 12:59 PM | #15 |
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Re: Intake manifold getting hot
The spark happens when the points open . More gap will cause the spark to happen sooner because the points will open a bit quicker . The most important thing about ignition timing is where the rotor tip points when the timing pin drops into the indentation on the cam timing gear . The trailing edge of the rotor tip should point exactly at the number one contact in the distributor cap with NO counter clockwise backlash after the distributor cam screw is tightened . It makes NO difference if the lever is up or down , the spark still occurs when the points open . If the rotor tip is very far off , the timing will be off enough that the engine probably won't run at all . Where the rotor tip points is most important but points gap DOES have an effect on timing simply because the spark happens when the points open . More gap will cause the points to open quicker . Rotor tip location and points gap work together for correct timing . For an example , when the rubbing block on the points wears the points gap reduces and retards timing in the process . Ford specs for points gap were eighteen to twenty two thousands . I adjust my points anywhere from twenty to twenty two thousands . The wider points gap gives quicker throttle response and more time before the timing will need to be readjusted . The spark lever should be fully retarded when starting the engine . Ford said full advance at speed . Speed was considered to be from 35 mph on up . If or when knocking or pinging is detected the spark lever should be retarded as necessary to eliminate the knocks . From what I have seen , Many go WAY to the extremes when retarding the spark lever .
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01-28-2020, 01:21 PM | #16 |
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Re: Intake manifold getting hot
That goes without saying. Setting the points first is just standard procedure. But as points wear, initial timing (lever up) changes a little and we compensate with a few clicks of the lever. Then point wear is taken care of during routine maintenance.
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01-28-2020, 01:28 PM | #17 |
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Re: Intake manifold getting hot
Yep , as the rubbing block wears points gap closes and effects timing . Just can't stress this point TOO much .
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01-28-2020, 01:33 PM | #18 | |
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Re: Intake manifold getting hot
Quote:
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01-28-2020, 02:08 PM | #19 | |
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Re: Intake manifold getting hot
Quote:
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01-29-2020, 02:09 AM | #20 | |
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Re: Intake manifold getting hot
Quote:
With the timing pin in place in the timing gear dimple, and the points gapped correctly, and the timing lever fully up, and points cam set so the points are just starting to open, the rotor tip will automatically be in the correct position (unless the 'tune up artist' sets the points cam 1/4 or 1/2 turn off somehow). Again, rotor tip position determines which cylinder the spark goes to, but not when. |
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