Observation 6 Days In...

[braol]

I just picked up the car Saturday and have logged all of 3 miles in it but I have a good mechanic's and classic car guy's perspective of "The Car" as my wife is calling it right now. My favorite moment to date is using my vintage Ford Model A tools to remove the spark plugs for cleaning and regapping. Little did my wife know what I was up to all these years of completing my Ford tool set at all the antique markets in the area. (I still need the Ford tire air gauge and tire pump.)


1)Love it! There is almost ZERO rust and everything works. Looks like a million bucks from a few strides away.


2)I am totally gassed that Wisconsin allows the owner of an antique car to run the car with old antique plates as long as you keep the issued plate and documents in that car at all times!!!! It's 1931 all over again!!!! (I'm also going to put my 1969 plates on my old F100 truck!!! Not sure it qualifies as an antique but i'll take my chances...)


3)Wife is ASKING to ride in it...need I say more...


4)Timing base setting might be a little bit too retarded. Car runs best at idle (warmed-up) with the spark advanced only about 2 clicks up from full advance.


5)Base carb mixture might be a bit too lean. Car needs about 2-3 full turns of the mixture knob to keep from sputtering and backfiring under load when cold. It starts ok with the owner's manual specified single turn but doesn't like to be under load like that when cold. Once warm it seems fine at about 3/4-turn. I will be fiddling with it and logging my results so I can return to "baseline" and not screw anything up...


6)I get a medium-sized puddle of engine oil under the car after driving it. It's gotta be the main seal because I don't see ANY fresh oil anywhere other than on the ground. I will be degreasing the engine soon and will report back. (Photo enclosed.) (Yes Marge, I KNOW it looks like the rear-end is leaking...that is after I turned the car around in the garage...)


7)Slight wobble in the front end at 30mph. That is on my list of things to tighten up. It has no shocks but those are low on the priority list.


8)Oil pan is missing one bolt as is the intake manifold (stud??). Floorboards have NO screws (on order). Firewall has NO seals around the pedals, steering wheel, or any of the controls. (on order). Car DOES have the manifold heater accessory.


9)Clutch chatter getting better with miles...or I'm getting better. I can't 100% tell for certain if I have the shims installed at top of bellhousing..it's really tight in there and hard to see.


The good news is that all of my "issues" are all the common things. I'd die if I found the block to be cracked or something equally problematic. The prior owner installed FIVE BRAND NEW FIRESTONE TIRES and ALL BRAND NEW BRAKES!!!!!! I couldn't be more pleased. The goal now is to assemble my Touring Emergency Kit and finish getting the car up to my standard of inspection and then hit the road.

[Bob C]

There is no seal on the rear main, there is a slinger and a drain tube.
You should move shocks up near the top of your to do list as they are
really a safety item and will improve handling greatly.


Bob

[braol]

Well, my rear main is obviously doing a good job of slinging oil and I can reliably report that the drain tube is free and clear!

[Bob C]

The tube drains back into the pan.

[Ruth]

Originally Posted by braol

Well, my rear main is obviously doing a good job of slinging oil and I can reliably report that the drain tube is free and clear!

Check your oil level. Too high and the "Rear Main" will leak Run it about halfway between "F" and "E". When changing your oil only refill with 4 ½ quarts as ~½ quart remains in the dipper tray.

[braol]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

For my oil change I put in about only 4 qts and that brought it up to the 1/2 mark. I must have 1/2 a quart of sludge in the pan.