Light Switch Housing Height

[sconnors]

I've seen some posts on here where guys have said the new light switch housings are 1/8 in higher than the old ones and they had to grind them down to get a good connection. While taking my horn rod out of my 1930 CCPU today I pulled mine off and put it next to my old one (which I'm sure is a repo and was replaced at some point. The only markings I could find were the words MARK on the switch itself)

In looking at them however, it appears that the old one is higher than the new one? Anyone else ever seen this and should I use the old top? I've attached some pictures.

[ericr]

there used to be a "Mark Auto" that sold repo parts back in the '70s, I don't know if they still exist or not. Oddly, the repo light switches I bought back then seemed to be of better quality than ones I have bought in recent years.

[Brentwood Bob]

look at the impression on the side that is what limits the plate. Looks like the repo, shiney on on the right is wrong. Bob

[sconnors]

Originally Posted by Brentwood Bob

look at the impression on the side that is what limits the plate. Looks like the repo, shiney on on the right is wrong. Bob

Thanks Bob,
I have noticed that the new shiny one I got from Snyder's barely stays snapped whereas the older on I had to fight to get it unsnapped and I know that's probably from age. Unfortunately I've already got the new one on the bottom, I guess I'll see if the old cover fits the new bottom and try that.

[29spcoupe]

I bought an original light switch at a flea mkt on Sunday to replace the repro that was on my car. It is much larger than the repro, but managed to make it fit. Are there differences between the '28-'29 and the '30-'31? John

[DANA BIZZELL]

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Sconnors, What I ran into was the original Ford spider ears were to long and getting into dimples on the contact plate causing cowl/head light to come on at the same time. Could not feel dimples.
Thanks
Dana

[ericr]

Originally Posted by sconnors

Thanks Bob,
I have noticed that the new shiny one I got from Snyder's barely stays snapped whereas the older on I had to fight to get it unsnapped and I know that's probably from age. Unfortunately I've already got the new one on the bottom, I guess I'll see if the old cover fits the new bottom and try that.

I've had the exact same experience. it is an ordeal to lock an original. I've had to steel wool it and use a tad of WD-40 to ease the job.

[barnstuf]

To update comments made above there were three headlamp switches, 1928 to early 1929, next one was to April 1930, next to end of production and the last one was the tallest one. The early ones were shorter.

MARK Auto is still in business as far as I know but has been wholesale only for a number of years. Prime source for gears, reproduction carburetors and more.

[sconnors]

I think I'm going to try and use the top from my old one with the bottom of the one. That's after I get the new horn rod put in, my old one was bent. I'll keep everyone posted on how the bastardization of the light switches worked!