28 cc truck door upper garnish molding

[walthagl]

I am looking for a picture of the upper garnish molding trim. This is a after market door and I need to drill and tap holes for the strips that hole the window felt in and the trim slides over.

Thanks
Walt Hagl

[Joe K]

I'm not having any luck attaching pix so I'll have to describe.

The actual trim is "U-shaped." Three straight pieces welded together at miters at the top door corners. The top horizontal is held by three screws which are exposed to the driver. The sides are held by "retaining channels" which are placed on the door frame vertically with three screws each - and the "U-trim" is slid down over the channels, covers them and their screws, and the U-trim held with visible screws at the top.

The original bolting is worth describing. At nine places on the door (3 front, 3 top, 3 back) there are "pockets" which are accessed from the perimeter edge of the door and allow placement of square nuts to match the oval head chrome screws. One imagines it would be a challenge to replace square nuts and fasten the screws without the door laying "outside down" on the work-bench.

The channels vary between the front and rear of the door: the front is shorter and allow the trim to match the door frame/window. The U-trim is "taller" to the rear.

The objective in placing the U-trim is to have the trim in place, match the lower hand-pull escutcheon at the front and back window corner, and "match" the rolled/formed edge of the exterior door/window opening - on each of the upper three sides. The U-trim thus acts as the interior wall of the "slot" thus formed to contain the window tracks/felts. Felts are likely placed first and then the trim/channels are placed "catch" the felts by friction. (Many use contact cement.)

The hidden channels are worth speaking on. In front of me I have the front-most door channel for the driver's side door. The channel piece is about 16" long with the corners "clipped" a bit to better match the "miter" appearing in the U-trim. The middle of the three screw holes is exactly "mid-length" on the 16", and the upper and lower screw holes are 7-1/2 up and down from the middle. The screw holes themselves are 3/8" from the "front most" edge of the channel when mounted in place (i.e. the hole pockets/nuts are perhaps 1/2" from the front edge of the door.)

And thus it is for the rear, longer channel to the opening edge of the door.

I don't have the rear channel in front of me for dimensions, but the placement is more or less mirror image to the front - except the hole locations placed to match its larger size.

But keep in mind - the final position of the U-trim wants to match the exterior opening of the window - that "making a slot" for the felt thing. The actual channel locations should achieve that - the fastening is less important, and in fact not seen except at the door top.

You don't say if your channels have holes in them for screws, but if they don't, you can probably stick to more or less what I have indicated for placement. If they're a little off, it probably doesn't matter.

But your big challenge will be arranging the channels left/right" so that the interior edge of the U-trim cover lines up with the window opening.

Sorry I can seem to bring up the pix. That thousand words thing...

Joe K

[walthagl]

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Thanks! The information helped a lot.
Walt Hagl