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Old 03-08-2012, 03:19 PM   #41
shaun
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buick 2 001.jpg

dahinda.jpgBoth Nice boats, I like the Cris Craft Roamer, 1963 aluminum there cant be to many of them around, she had done well to avoid any electrolysis issues, most aluminum boats I come across seem to be junk after 20 years. What engine does she have.
I have a 1924 54 ft Sail boat built in the Uk, I have been fixing her up for past 5 years she is in NY, and a 21 ft Tod Tuna Built in the UK in 1955, the 5th Production Fiber Glass boat to be built in England. Tod built wooden boats, but came to the USA to learn about Fiber glass boat construction. I had her shipped over when I came to the USA, she has twin ford flat heads 16hp each, rare engines in the USA only used here in Early snowmobiles. but in England they were much used by Ford in cars.
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Old 03-08-2012, 04:26 PM   #42
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A few for fun! ws

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jCyYi3UQaEY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_gXjN60SLwg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3tF-b0R-KJk

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CU9mwaEtsUA
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Old 03-08-2012, 11:37 PM   #43
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what a beautiful lathe bill.they dont make them like that anymore!
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Old 03-09-2012, 08:52 AM   #44
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The boats are pretty cool too!! ws

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Old 03-11-2012, 05:42 PM   #45
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Ok, three days of discussion . Lets get this thing running. Pull the plugs ( might soak in knocker loose for a day or so) poor some oil in the cylinders and hand crank er over a few times.

Looks to me like a 26-27 engine with the coils, carb and hogs head. I would check the oil , hook up a battery as good as i could and trash the carb intake ( ebay etc) put a earlier intake and holley NH on it ( do whats needed to work that out )
Get it sparking and then maybe running enough to warm up ,change the oil and set back and looker over ....
Never know about these cars they will fool ya on how well they will go .....I think we did 4 of these barn cars last year and actually drove each one around the block with very little work.....
One 27 touring is still hauling my friend around , kids and all............
Be glad to help might even have a part or two ( on the cheap)........pm for help.,
Well update on the T, got a few hrs on Saturday to play a little, I found two more coils and with the ones I had, managed to get four to work, spent a long time removing and cleaning the parts in the coil box, taped up the leads and wires from timer, so that I could try and see if she would fire, poured a little gas in each plug hole, and filled the carb, well she fired almost first turn of the crank handle, each time she fired it got better, the she ran for the shortest of time, full of enthusiastic opportunism, I wound the crank handle over one last time, this time she kicked back, I am used to crank starting old tractors, I am not used to the pair of lights behind me I whacked me elbow so hard I thought I was going to be sick, My neighbor is a priest, he may of heard a new words about Jesus heaven and hell ect, as I lept around the garden, with my wife telling me to stop swearing.
When the feeling came back in my arm, (it still hurts) I thought I would wire up the starter, but it has had been run for many years with out the dust cover on, it was full of dirt and stuck solid, so I spent today striping it down and cleaning it up it now spins great. so made next week I will be able to try again.
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Old 03-11-2012, 06:24 PM   #46
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You shouldve had the priest say a benediction BEFORE you tried to start it rather than after LOL !! You did have the spark lever all the way up didnt you??? ws
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Old 03-11-2012, 07:02 PM   #47
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You shouldve had the priest say a benediction BEFORE you tried to start it rather than after LOL !! You did have the spark lever all the way up didnt you??? ws
Up you say?
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Old 03-11-2012, 07:22 PM   #48
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Up you say?
Uh oh. Fully retard the spark (spark lever all the way up) and the fuel lever up to. Give it a little choke for about a turn. Then bring your crank up so your cranking over the top. Don't hook your thumb (you probably know that from cranking tractors). Then if your carb spray needle is set right (about 1 1/2 turns out) and your timer is set right and the moon and stars line up directly between Saturn and Jupiter, it might start. Oh and make sure you got fuel in it. Then if it doesn't start, pull it with your wife's car. Or better yet, your neighbors.
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Old 03-11-2012, 07:33 PM   #49
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Yeah... point it at Uranus!! !! MIKE!!!!!!!!!!

That guy leads the flock astray... Im gettin' the flock outa here!!

All the way up is full retard. Way less of a chance of a kick back. BARELY open the throttle; just enough to keep it running. If you start, and advance the spark, be prepared to idle the throttle down (up) also or you can get an ice cold overspeed... not good for dry rods!
If youve ever kick started a motorcycle (4 stroke only !!) you bump it over until you feel compression, then attempt to start it... Ts are the same way. There IS a little technique to it... ws
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Old 03-11-2012, 07:41 PM   #50
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Uh oh. Fully retard the spark (spark lever all the way up) and the fuel lever up to. Give it a little choke for about a turn. Then bring your crank up so your cranking over the top. Don't hook your thumb (you probably know that from cranking tractors). Then if your carb spray needle is set right (about 1 1/2 turns out) and your timer is set right and the moon and stars line up directly between Saturn and Jupiter, it might start. Oh and make sure you got fuel in it. Then if it doesn't start, pull it with your wife's car. Or better yet, your neighbors.
OK I was good with, that right up to Jupiter, I cant find it, anyways I know she will go, just has that kind of feeling, Its great to work on a car that was designed to be taken apart and put back together, you can really see what Henry F was thinking, when he and others designed this car, I have been around old cars, boats, tractors, for years but really like the model T. I have been bitten by the T bug.
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Old 03-11-2012, 07:49 PM   #51
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Yeah... point it at Uranus!! !! MIKE!!!!!!!!!!

That guy leads the flock astray... Im gettin' the flock outa here!!

All the way up is full retard. Way less of a chance of a kick back. BARELY open the throttle; just enough to keep it running. If you start, and advance the spark, be prepared to idle the throttle down (up) also or you can get an ice cold overspeed... not good for dry rods!
If youve ever kick started a motorcycle (4 stroke only !!) you bump it over until you feel compression, then attempt to start it... Ts are the same way. There IS a little technique to it... ws
Thanks, do you know if latter hubs for wire wheels, will fit that early fount axle (hubs for wood wheels at the moment) that is on my car.
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Old 03-11-2012, 07:52 PM   #52
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COOL... so now youve earned your wings on the twister! So you swore up a storm... did you make up any words? Thatll throw the reverend for loop! When I am about to encounter a situation like that I close the doors; I have a voice that carries! ws
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Old 03-11-2012, 08:21 PM   #53
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I think he thought, I was practicing some tribe dance,from old England, anyway the reverend knows the Lord going to forgive us for not showing up on Sundays, we have all these old cars to fix.
Most of my neighbors think I am odd. When I took delivery of my 49 Plymouth the lady over the road, told me she had driven past it for mths on her way to work, where it was on the side of the road for sale, everyday she thought who would want that pile of ****
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Old 03-11-2012, 08:46 PM   #54
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You know, now that I think about it Will, I noticed the filth that can come out of your mouth is almost as bad as mine. Not quite but close. I guess you still affiliate yourself with the church. You know, The Church! Bwahahahahahaaaaaa

Shaun, if you've ever started an old Farmall Regular or F-20 you fully retard the spark, pull the throttle out a little bit then you bring the crank slowly around until just about the time the pawl is going to kick the magneto over. Then Bring just the crank around to somewhere close to 9:00 to 10:00 engage the crank into the front of the crankshaft then give it a good hard crank to about 2:00. You'll feel it let go. And if she's tuned right she'll fire up. Then advance the timing until the motor smooths out and slow the throttle down. Let her warm up a little, hook her up to 2 fourteens and get to work. Someone will bring some lunch out at about 1:30 and you'll drink fresh hole milk out of a mason jar and eat cheese sandwiches on homemade bread. If your running the picker and it's late enough in the fall there might be a chunk of ham in your sandwich. And there's always a couple cookies or a little cake. Then you lay back against the tire on the grass, pull your cap over your eyes and catch a little snooze. That is until the Old Man can't hear that damn Farmall running. Then you quickly check the water in the radiator start the tractor again and while it's starting to warm up a little pour some water into the radiator. Then get back to work before the old man gets out there to see whats wrong.

I bet you didn't realize starting a model t would take so much.
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Old 03-11-2012, 09:17 PM   #55
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Thanks, do you know if latter hubs for wire wheels, will fit that early fount axle (hubs for wood wheels at the moment) that is on my car.
Yes they will fit on the spindles.
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Old 03-12-2012, 09:18 PM   #56
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She started, I fitted the starter motor, and she fired right up, I only ran her for a few seconds, old oil, no water, and everything jury rigged, bare wires, gasoline all over the place, you know the picture. I have not had to touch the carb which is incredible when you think how long she has been sat for, I will definitely get some of the Winter green mint oil, for anything I want to store.
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Old 03-12-2012, 10:52 PM   #57
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You know, now that I think about it Will, I noticed the filth that can come out of your mouth is almost as bad as mine. Not quite but close. I guess you still affiliate yourself with the church. You know, The Church! Bwahahahahahaaaaaa

Shaun, if you've ever started an old Farmall Regular or F-20 you fully retard the spark, pull the throttle out a little bit then you bring the crank slowly around until just about the time the pawl is going to kick the magneto over. Then Bring just the crank around to somewhere close to 9:00 to 10:00 engage the crank into the front of the crankshaft then give it a good hard crank to about 2:00. You'll feel it let go. And if she's tuned right she'll fire up. Then advance the timing until the motor smooths out and slow the throttle down. Let her warm up a little, hook her up to 2 fourteens and get to work. Someone will bring some lunch out at about 1:30 and you'll drink fresh hole milk out of a mason jar and eat cheese sandwiches on homemade bread. If your running the picker and it's late enough in the fall there might be a chunk of ham in your sandwich. And there's always a couple cookies or a little cake. Then you lay back against the tire on the grass, pull your cap over your eyes and catch a little snooze. That is until the Old Man can't hear that damn Farmall running. Then you quickly check the water in the radiator start the tractor again and while it's starting to warm up a little pour some water into the radiator. Then get back to work before the old man gets out there to see whats wrong.

I bet you didn't realize starting a model t would take so much.
I love it....just an inside joke with my boss/best friend...."ya never go full retard" yea i know pc it is not...but if you meet him you will understand....FUNNY stuff!

And congrats shawn on getting the ol gal to clack a bit....now to make her hum!
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Old 03-18-2012, 04:42 PM   #58
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Hi I am servicing and cleaning things up so I can run the engine longer, on the front end of the crank shaft there is a cup that the locates the hand crank, it is held in place by the pin that goes,through the crank shaft, behind it is a thick steel washer, I have found some remains of what might be a felt washer?? both in front and behind the washer, is that correct? and if so what purpose did it serve?? was it just to keep dirt away from the shaft seal, what keeps the felt lubed when it spinning against the block.
Thanks
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Old 03-18-2012, 04:58 PM   #59
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OH BOY! That washer was an attempt to regulate the thrust on the crankshaft to maintain MAG coil to magnet clearance. Mikes gonna field this one. Get a distributor...
Model T wire wheels are great but they suck as well... The only hubs thatll really work with T wheels are T hubs. The cone on the wheel fits the nose on the hub in addition to the studs to maintain its position. Model A wheels with adapters kinda work but theres no outer support from the nose area.
The felt seal is captive in the blocks and rides ON the shaft. Lube oil does its business up there too... ws
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Old 03-18-2012, 05:56 PM   #60
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Thanks, Darn it, I knew the car had lost its new car smell, and that could be a sign of trouble, can the end caps be replaced with the engine in, I understand it is the rear main, that takes the brunt of the thrust, If I leave it for the time being and use the generator, can the mag collide like some people say?
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