'32 horn rod question: Really stiff once pushed all the way in.

[Tim Ayers]

Hi All:

A few questions about a '32 horn rod.

When inserting my original horn rod into an original '32 column, it goes in nice and smooth until you get near the top. With about 4" left, there is some resistance pushing it in.

Once in, it will spin around with the wheel. One of the pictures shows where the rod appears to be scraping on the inside horn rod tube in the column.

Not doing this before, here are my questions:

1) Is that how it is supposed to be? It seems to me it would turn the light switch if it's not free, but I don't know.
2) If not, any thoughts on what may be causing this?
3) Any thoughts on how to fix it?

Thanks,

Tim

[TJ]

It probably has a slight bend in the tube. It doesn't take much to cause the problem of spinning with the wheel. They need to dead straight to work properly. In your second photo you can see a slight curve down 2" or so from the bottom of the base.

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by TJ

It probably has a slight bend in the tube. It doesn't take much to cause the problem of spinning with the wheel. They need to dead straight to work properly. In your second photo you can see a slight curve down 2" or so from the bottom of the base.

Could be. Any thoughts on how to straighten it without causing more damage?

A thought I had was to run emery cloth over it to "true" it up.

[TJ]

You could try emery cloth. It's a fairly thin tube so I would not take too much off. First put a straight edge on it in the area where it appears to be bent. Use something that is about 12" long that will go from the bottom of the button to beyond the area where it appears to be bent. See how far out of straight that it may be.

[Bruce_MO]

Tim,

Ifit's very straight and it turns freely all the way down until you hit thelast 4 inches, maybe it's binding in the "steering gear end plate" ifyou have one. A fix to chronic oil leaks was a plate with an approx.6" tube brazed to it to keep oil from leaking out. The horn rod slipsthru the tube. The two small 1/4-20 cap screws on the lower end of the steeringbox hold it on. The "plate" piece of it has the two ears that thelight switch bail loops over. I'm pretty sure that '32's originally didn't havethe tube; just a cork gasket and a spring washer held in by the plate toprovide a meager seal. I don't know if someone adapted the "modernfix" version with the tube, and that's what is causing the bind. Not sureif the bore of the steering shaft would even allow for the tube to fit; my twoModel A's both have them as a really good solution to the leakage issue, but I never tried the fix on my '32. In anycase, something down low could be the culprit. Good luck

[Tim Ayers]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Originally Posted by Bruce_MO

Tim,

Ifit's very straight and it turns freely all the way down until you hit thelast 4 inches, maybe it's binding in the "steering gear end plate" ifyou have one. A fix to chronic oil leaks was a plate with an approx.6" tube brazed to it to keep oil from leaking out. The horn rod slipsthru the tube. The two small 1/4-20 cap screws on the lower end of the steeringbox hold it on. The "plate" piece of it has the two ears that thelight switch bail loops over. I'm pretty sure that '32's originally didn't havethe tube; just a cork gasket and a spring washer held in by the plate toprovide a meager seal. I don't know if someone adapted the "modernfix" version with the tube, and that's what is causing the bind. Not sureif the bore of the steering shaft would even allow for the tube to fit; my twoModel A's both have them as a really good solution to the leakage issue, but I never tried the fix on my '32. In anycase, something down low could be the culprit. Good luck

Ah, right. I'll look into that as well. What has me thinking it may be tweaked are the scrape marks near the top. Possible it's a combo of issues. It's full of STP right now, so I'll take it out and tip back to keep it in there.

[DavidG]

If it was binding near the bottom it would not turn with the steering wheel. Judging from the marks on the tube, likely you have a burr inside the shaft at the woodruff key slot. Or, in the extreme, the key is not the right one, namely with a straight edge along the bottom so that the key does not protrude into the hole in the center of the shaft.

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by DavidG

If it was binding near the bottom it would not turn with the steering wheel. Judging from the marks on the tube, likely you have a burr inside the shaft at the woodruff key slot. Or, in the extreme, the key is not the right one, namely with a straight edge along the bottom so that the key does not protrude into the hole in the center of the shaft.

Thank you David. I'll take a closer look at what going on. I do think it's binding at the top.

[DavidG]

It sure looks like it's near the top and judging from the solid area of burnishing on the rod it would just about line up with the slot for the steering wheel woodruff key.

[cas3]

i have to agree with David, i learned about the key the hard way once myself. it is a standard size, but a "ford" part when the bottom round area is ground flat by 1/8" or so. should only be what shows above the shaft, and the thickness of the shaft

[Tim Ayers]

Key way is fine. Rod is bent. Ugh. I’ll take a picture. It’s got a constant rise about 12” long. It’s an original one. Any ideas on how to straighten it?

[cas3]

they will bend very easy to straighten. eyeball or straight edge to find the area that needs work, clamp loosely in the vise on the straight section and bend the area thats bent. then move in the vise to the next bend. its easy, just dont get violent with the top where the light switch handle attaches, as the tube has a weak spot where henry put a bubble in to support the switch. that can crack. dont ask how i know this