The Ford Barn

bigd1101 · 10-01-2018, 10:07 AM

Just in case I have a slight head gasket leak, which I don't think I do as the oil is good, no milky look, no "steam cleaned" spark plug ends..will check for bubbles when I get the new radiator and check through the Gano filter window, does IronTite "All Weather Seal" work? Will it plug a new radiator? Same with K-Seal Pour & Go?? I'm just thinking ahead......

Don

Jim Brierley · 10-01-2018, 10:57 AM

Additives rarely help in this situation but may be worth a try? I would first re-torque the head.

30 Closed Cab PU · 10-01-2018, 10:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigd1101

Just in case I have a slight head gasket leak, which I don't think I do as the oil is good, no milky look, no "steam cleaned" spark plug ends..will check for bubbles when I get the new radiator and check through the Gano filter window, does IronTite "All Weather Seal" work? Will it plug a new radiator? Same with K-Seal Pour & Go?? I'm just thinking ahead......

Don

Hi Don,

Do you suspect something, or just being cautious because installing a new radiator and learning your A?

If worried about head gasket - do a compression test, and a Napa Block Test .

If compression readings are good and about the same for all cylinders indication things are probably OK. If not, could be a few things including the head gasket.

The Block Test checks for exhaust gasses in the radiator coolant. I assume you do not have any evidence of leakage where head and and block mate.

Gasket Seepage can also appear as a white powdery substance and/or a discoloration of engine paint. See attached picture.

bigd1101 · 10-01-2018, 11:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 30 Closed Cab PU

Hi Don,

Do you suspect something, or just being cautious because installing a new radiator and learning your A?

If worried about head gasket - do a compression test, and a Napa Block Test .

If compression readings are good and about the same for all cylinders indication things are probably OK. If not, could be a few things including the head gasket.

The Block Test checks for exhaust gasses in the radiator coolant. I assume you do not have any evidence of leakage where head and and block mate.

Gasket Seepage can also appear as a white powdery substance and/or a discoloration of engine paint. See attached picture.

I don't suspect a leak, just wondering if there is a product that could fix one with pulling the head.

bigd1101 · 10-01-2018, 11:36 AM

Here is a shot of my engine and as you can see, no outward signs but that doesn't mean there might be one inside. There is a tiny tell tell sign in the back of the head in the picture, but there is no fluid coming out and looks like an old leak. I did touch it up with some paint when I got the car and ran it a few times with no new staining in that area, so I'm assuming it was a old leak stain.

30 Closed Cab PU · 10-01-2018, 01:35 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Suggestions
Run the compression and Block tests to baseline your Motor.

Wipe off the seepage area, continue to monitor that area, If evidence of seepage returns, re-torque head. Looks like it has not been re-torqued since the motor was painted, since the paint on the head nuts looks undisturbed.

If seepage returns pull the head. Better to resolve this sooner than later. Adding a sealer is only a bandaid and may have unintended consequences. I took advice (not from the Barn) to keep running mine. I was lucky, my gasket was bad in 4 places and my head was warped 8 thousands (a lot). Coolant was working its way over to the valves and pistons which would have required engine removal and to send the block out for refurbishment/repair.

Your motor has some updates; Nu rex alternator, fuse on top of the starter, red coolant hoses, air maze filter (screen type/oiled), wiring looks like it was replaced when the motor was painted, temp probe/gauge in the head coolant outlet neck.

Other possible upgrades to consider; Change Air Maze filter element to K&N for better filtering, replace sediment bowl filter screen with paper micro-filter element, if not installed pencil filter on Fuel Shutoff Valve, if needed change Stop/Tail lamps to LED, add 3rd Brake light, add blinkers, install halogen or LED headlamps. Update water pump with modern seals/bearings or replace entire pump with leakless pump, update distributor (research).

Research your updates before deciding - especially the Air Maze. With the existing setup if your carb float bowl overflows with gas, gas can leak into the filter, if there is a backfire there is a chance of a motor fire.

If you are not aware, lube the distributor and points block/dist. cam at a minimum every 300 -500 miles. I did not know, and the distributor bearings went bad and points block wore down

30 Closed Cab PU · 10-01-2018, 01:44 PM

sorry, forgot to mention.

Since you will have the radiator off, inspect which type of fan you have. Original type fans are dangerous, they stress crack and fly apart, damaging your hood, radiator, or other.

Replacement with a one piece aluminum is the most frequently recommended. Some use a plastic one.

Dick Steinkamp · 10-01-2018, 02:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 30 Closed Cab PU

Suggestions
Run the compression and Block tests to baseline your Motor.

I know compression test...what's a block test?

Thanks

Hoovercw · 10-01-2018, 02:14 PM

Throw a can of evaporated milk in with your water. I does no harm and when the sugars meet with the air they are cooked to form a seal. Not a permanent fix, but it got me through several months until I could do a gasket. Just my 2 cents.

30 Closed Cab PU · 10-01-2018, 02:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dick Steinkamp

I know compression test...what's a block test?

Thanks

The Napa Block Test measures for Exhaust Gas in the coolant. It is a partially fill a clear rube kit test liquid. With the motor warm, draw radiator/coolant air in through the liquid at the filler neck via an attached bulb with one way valve. If the test liquid changes color it is an indication of exhaust gas in the coolant

About $45, enough test liquid to do a few radiator tests.
Here is the Link
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7001006

Dick Steinkamp · 10-01-2018, 02:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 30 Closed Cab PU

The Napa Block Test measures for Exhaust Gas in the coolant. It is a partially fill a clear rube kit test liquid. With the motor warm, draw radiator/coolant air in through the liquid at the filler neck via an attached bulb with one way valve. If the test liquid changes color it is an indication of exhaust gas in the coolant

About $45, enough test liquid to do a few radiator tests.
Here is the Link
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7001006

Thanks! Now I know. Probably a good device to have around, but I imagine a radiator shop could do the same test if you anticipate only an occasional need for such a test.

30 Closed Cab PU · 10-01-2018, 03:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dick Steinkamp

Thanks! Now I know. Probably a good device to have around, but I imagine a radiator shop could do the same test if you anticipate only an occasional need for such a test.

Has to be stored out of extreme heat/cold, only good for 1-2 years. Replacement fluid can be purchased. I donated mine to the club I am in and let my friends know about it. Cut down on wasting the fluid.

100IH · 10-01-2018, 04:14 PM

Let's not wrap up without mentioning that head gaskets will/can fail 1. blow out the side, (could be compression only) or (with coolant involvement), 2. one cylinder to another(also either wet or dry) 3. coolant down the nearest hole and into the crankcase. 4. on other types of engines, not A, Compression or coolant can get into Oil passages and oil return passages. Also Irontite sealer is best done after thorough cleaning. Some cleaning chemicals will harm the plastic version of Gano coolant filter, brass ones OK. After 80 years, rust begins to shake hands at the rear an become one hard blob and sealers can congeal the mess even worse.

30 Closed Cab PU · 10-01-2018, 04:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 100IH

Let's not wrap up without mentioning that head gaskets will/can fail 1. blow out the side, (could be compression only) or (with coolant involvement), 2. one cylinder to another(also either wet or dry) 3. coolant down the nearest hole and into the crankcase. 4. on other types of engines, not A, Compression or coolant can get into Oil passages and oil return passages. Also Irontite sealer is best done after thorough cleaning. Some cleaning chemicals will harm the plastic version of Gano coolant filter, brass ones OK. After 80 years, rust begins to shake hands at the rear an become one hard blob and sealers can congeal the mess even worse.

So from your more experienced view.

Checking the things mentioned in the above string should tell him if he has an issue(s)? Or are there other diagnostics, symptoms, not involving pulling the head not mentioned? One I can think of is overheating, but that should get caught with the Block Test.

Thanks.

100IH · 10-03-2018, 07:55 AM

The hardest problem to diagnose is one that has not occurred yet. Stay vigilant but not to the point of pulling the head and causing other issues. ( like a gob of rust falling out of the water jackets and landing on the gasket and causing another problem.) Time to drive and enjoy. Tight stomach, OK. Think about how lucky you are that it is not an out of production European sports car, DOHC, mechanical injection, whitworth threads rusty chrome spoke wheels. Model A is simple.

10-01-2018, 10:07 AM	#1
bigd1101 Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2018 Location: Ithaca Posts: 345	Just in case I have a laeking head gasket Just in case I have a slight head gasket leak, which I don't think I do as the oil is good, no milky look, no "steam cleaned" spark plug ends..will check for bubbles when I get the new radiator and check through the Gano filter window, does IronTite "All Weather Seal" work? Will it plug a new radiator? Same with K-Seal Pour & Go?? I'm just thinking ahead...... Don

10-01-2018, 10:57 AM	#2
Jim Brierley Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Temecula, CA Posts: 4,089	Re: Just in case I have a laeking head gasket Additives rarely help in this situation but may be worth a try? I would first re-torque the head.

10-01-2018, 01:35 PM	#6
30 Closed Cab PU Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2018 Posts: 2,332	Re: Just in case I have a laeking head gasket Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Suggestions Run the compression and Block tests to baseline your Motor. Wipe off the seepage area, continue to monitor that area, If evidence of seepage returns, re-torque head. Looks like it has not been re-torqued since the motor was painted, since the paint on the head nuts looks undisturbed. If seepage returns pull the head. Better to resolve this sooner than later. Adding a sealer is only a bandaid and may have unintended consequences. I took advice (not from the Barn) to keep running mine. I was lucky, my gasket was bad in 4 places and my head was warped 8 thousands (a lot). Coolant was working its way over to the valves and pistons which would have required engine removal and to send the block out for refurbishment/repair. Your motor has some updates; Nu rex alternator, fuse on top of the starter, red coolant hoses, air maze filter (screen type/oiled), wiring looks like it was replaced when the motor was painted, temp probe/gauge in the head coolant outlet neck. Other possible upgrades to consider; Change Air Maze filter element to K&N for better filtering, replace sediment bowl filter screen with paper micro-filter element, if not installed pencil filter on Fuel Shutoff Valve, if needed change Stop/Tail lamps to LED, add 3rd Brake light, add blinkers, install halogen or LED headlamps. Update water pump with modern seals/bearings or replace entire pump with leakless pump, update distributor (research). Research your updates before deciding - especially the Air Maze. With the existing setup if your carb float bowl overflows with gas, gas can leak into the filter, if there is a backfire there is a chance of a motor fire. If you are not aware, lube the distributor and points block/dist. cam at a minimum every 300 -500 miles. I did not know, and the distributor bearings went bad and points block wore down

10-01-2018, 01:44 PM	#7
30 Closed Cab PU Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2018 Posts: 2,332	Re: Just in case I have a laeking head gasket sorry, forgot to mention. Since you will have the radiator off, inspect which type of fan you have. Original type fans are dangerous, they stress crack and fly apart, damaging your hood, radiator, or other. Replacement with a one piece aluminum is the most frequently recommended. Some use a plastic one.

10-01-2018, 02:14 PM	#9
Hoovercw Member Join Date: Mar 2017 Location: Memphis, TN Posts: 63	Re: Just in case I have a laeking head gasket Throw a can of evaporated milk in with your water. I does no harm and when the sugars meet with the air they are cooked to form a seal. Not a permanent fix, but it got me through several months until I could do a gasket. Just my 2 cents.

10-01-2018, 04:14 PM	#13
100IH Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: SW Idaho Posts: 970	Re: Just in case I have a laeking head gasket Let's not wrap up without mentioning that head gaskets will/can fail 1. blow out the side, (could be compression only) or (with coolant involvement), 2. one cylinder to another(also either wet or dry) 3. coolant down the nearest hole and into the crankcase. 4. on other types of engines, not A, Compression or coolant can get into Oil passages and oil return passages. Also Irontite sealer is best done after thorough cleaning. Some cleaning chemicals will harm the plastic version of Gano coolant filter, brass ones OK. After 80 years, rust begins to shake hands at the rear an become one hard blob and sealers can congeal the mess even worse.

10-03-2018, 07:55 AM	#15
100IH Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: SW Idaho Posts: 970	Re: Just in case I have a laeking head gasket The hardest problem to diagnose is one that has not occurred yet. Stay vigilant but not to the point of pulling the head and causing other issues. ( like a gob of rust falling out of the water jackets and landing on the gasket and causing another problem.) Time to drive and enjoy. Tight stomach, OK. Think about how lucky you are that it is not an out of production European sports car, DOHC, mechanical injection, whitworth threads rusty chrome spoke wheels. Model A is simple.