canister oil filter to spin on conversion nut removal

[ahshoe]

I have the spin on kit already for my 56 F100 272 ci. I am trying to remove the old large female nut that holds the plate on for the canister filter. That bugger will not budge. I have to remove it to use the spin on large nut with the male threads on it. I tried a breaker bar. According to the new threads I can see that it is a left (counter clockwise) rotation to remove the old nut. Any thoughts?

[dmsfrr]

I replaced my old spin-on adapter just last week because it was leaking. I tried the breaker bar method too, it didn't work. Don't round off the corners of the large dia center bolt, then you'll really be stuck.

I also didn't have any luck with a 12 point socket, so I got a 6 point. The depth and taper at the center of the adapter plate and lack of height of the hex shaped part of the center bolt means you'll need a semi thin walled socket to fit onto it as far as possible. I considered grinding off the outermost edge of the socket to get it to fit deeper onto the bolt but didn't need to.

I used an impact wrench but it can't be one that's too long or the back end of it may hit the frame before the socket is lined up straight on the bolt. Your truck hopefully has more room there than this Bird.
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[ahshoe]

Did you finally get it off.....And just to be sure it does come off counter clockwise, correct?

[dmsfrr]

Yes, counter clockwise to unscrew. With the impact wrench the large dia center bolt came out so easily it caught me by surprise. The engine was put together a few years ago but hadn't been started since. One that's been running for a long time will likely be different.

The old gasket and plate had been glued on with something red that had hardened. I had to make a DIY slide hammer to get the plate off the block after the nipple bolt was removed. It took a while to get all the old gasket & adhesive off the block with a razor blade.

Heads-up, the oil filter wouldn't easily thread onto the new center bolt in the kit I bought and the same nipple/bolt wouldn't thread into the block. The threads were very slightly 'off'.
I ran a 3/4 inch die over the oil filter threads by hand and that fixed that, but didn't have a 1 inch (?) die for the other side. Hopefully you have better luck with the kit you have.
Because I had the old spin-on adapter bolt that had just come out I reused it.
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[ahshoe]

Well 100# pressure impact won't budge mine. I hate to start adding pipe to my breaker bar. Still trying...just frustrated right now and for the time being I moved onto another project. This one is just in the back of my mind yet.

[Ole Don]

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I always kept a cheapy socket set just for these occasions. I ground down the outside to get a really good fit, the pulled on the flex handle while pushing on the socket end, just short of tipping the car over, it came loose.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by dmsfrr

Heads-up, ...

...incoming... ?

...the oil filter wouldn't easily thread onto the new center bolt in the kit I bought and the same nipple/bolt wouldn't thread into the block. The threads were very slightly 'off'.

I ran a 3/4 inch die over the oil filter threads by hand and that fixed that, but didn't have a 1 inch (?) die for the other side. Hopefully you have better luck with the kit you have.

Because I had the old spin-on adapter bolt that had just come out I reused it.

What kit did you use, a MOTORCRAFT or aftermarket? Wondering...

It may be whomever did the previous install may have over torqued the fitting and stretched the threads in the block or it (adapter) could be made from CHINESEIUM...

I the red material was RED LOCTITE, the previous engine owner may have had a leak and this was his method of alleviating the leakage.

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by KULTULZ

What kit did you use, a MOTORCRAFT or aftermarket? Wondering...

It may be whomever did the previous install may have over torqued the fitting and stretched the threads in the block or it (adapter) could be made from CHINESEIUM...

I must have skipped too much of the original explanation, it was in another thread...

The kit I bought to replace the leaking adapter plate & gasket wasn't a Motorcraft kit.
A bad idea because it had a center adapter bolt with threads that didn't fit right.

The leaking adapter plate kit on the engine was on the block before the engine was rebuilt. It was cleaned and reinstalled by the rebuilder but leaked a bunch on start-up. Presumably because the old plate had lost enough tension to seal the large round gasket tightly against the block.
The threads on the 'old' center bolt were fine and I reused it in place of the 'new' bolt that had cheesy threads.

My 'heads-up' comment was for ahshoe to not assume his new adapter kit would fit correctly without checking first. (If he can get the old factory canister fitting out.)
.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by dmsfrr

The kit I bought to replace the leaking adapter plate & gasket wasn't a Motorcraft kit.

THANX!

I was concerned that FORD might have gone with another vendor and the quality was compromised.

[[email protected]]

I recently converted my 1954 Y block canister type oil filter to the spin on type. I used a kit from Mac's I believe. The biggest problem was seating the rubber gasket to the block without it becoming distorted during the tightening process.

It leaks a little but but only a little. Still, I will be doing the install a second time. I recently read an article lifted from a copy of "Engine Builder Mag" warning never to use glue or silicone to assist in seating the round gasket. BUT, the most notable comment referencing a "flat impregnated paper gasket" was what really get my attention. I've seen a total of three of these after market kits and they all have droopy rubber gaskets. Does anybody know who makes the correct more durable gasket referred to in the article? Any other information that's applicable would be appreciated as well.

Thanks Timmy D

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by [email protected]

. . . BUT, the most notable comment referencing a "flat impregnated paper gasket" was what really get my attention. I've seen a total of three of these after market kits and they all have droopy rubber gaskets. Does anybody know who makes the correct more durable gasket referred to in the article? Any other information that's applicable would be appreciated as well.
Thanks Timmy D

I think the harder flat fiber gasket comes in the box with a canister style filter, I hope it can by bought by itself???
My replacement filter adapter kit blew its rubber gasket out a week after my 5-19-18 post above, just like the one that had been on the engine, very messy. So I bought a billet aluminum filter adapter with an o-ring, no leaks so far.
.

[paul2748]

I did the same thing. Did it quite awhile ago, so don't remember any problems once I ground down the socket.

Originally Posted by Ole Don

I always kept a cheapy socket set just for these occasions. I ground down the outside to get a really good fit, the pulled on the flex handle while pushing on the socket end, just short of tipping the car over, it came loose.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by [email protected]

I recently read an article lifted from a copy of "Engine Builder Mag" warning never to use glue or silicone to assist in seating the round gasket. BUT, the most notable comment referencing a "flat impregnated paper gasket" was what really get my attention. I've seen a total of three of these after market kits and they all have droopy rubber gaskets. Does anybody know who makes the correct more durable gasket referred to in the article? Any other information that's applicable would be appreciated as well.

Thanks Timmy D

You source the fiber gasket from either FEL-PRO or BEST GASKETS. And they go on dry.

The original gasket was EAA 6838-A and vendors such as MAC's sells inferior parts using the FORD PN to describe them.

[Ole Don]

I had two rubber gaskets squeeze out before starting the engine. I bought a filter for a 54 Ford and it came with a fiber gasket, which I used dry.