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Old 04-22-2012, 03:37 PM   #1
Peter J
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Default Hope you can help

Hey guys, help,
Awhile back, I was griping about a noisy valve and not being able to locate any clearance problems. I've messed around with all the valves and really had the clearances tight and still same click at same volumn.
Before I start pulling the head and pan, has anyone heard a broken ring sound like a valve?? I've had my sthethascope all over the engine/water pump etc. and sounds like #1 or #2 but it Runs great. I have NOT done a compression check though.
No threads really hit on the possiblity of broken ring noise...I checked.
Thanks!
Pete
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Old 04-22-2012, 03:51 PM   #2
J Franklin
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Default Re: Hope you can help

Let us know how the compression checks out.
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Old 04-22-2012, 06:44 PM   #3
Great Lakes Greg
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Default Re: Hope you can help

Seems like a valve train noise would be a slow click (half the r.p.m.'s), where a piston related noise would be fast, matching the actual engine revelutions. What does a boogered up cam gear sound like? Messed up teeth would be at the front of the engine like your noise and could be at half speed.
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Old 04-22-2012, 07:01 PM   #4
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Default Re: Hope you can help

How about if you rotate the suspected piston/cyl to the bottom and look thru the spark plug hole to look for abnormal wear/gouging on the cyl wall or a compression ck. How about a cracked spring that applies pressure to the front of the cam??
Paul in CT
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Old 04-22-2012, 07:31 PM   #5
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Default Re: Hope you can help

PeterJ,
I've had good success LOCALIZING noises with a cheap stethascope without the probe, just use the open hose. With the probe, sometimes the sounds transmit & are hard to localize.
Used that way, you can also find & locate vacuum leaks in a jiffy! It'll scream like a BANSHEE! Bill W.
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Old 04-22-2012, 07:56 PM   #6
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I had a "clicking" noise up front. It was consistent. It turned out to be the generator pulley. It was a two piece pulley that had 4 rivets to hold the two pieces together. The rivets were loose. Found this by taking the fan belt off and starting the engine.
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Old 04-22-2012, 08:37 PM   #7
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Default Re: Hope you can help

In high school I had a 54 Chevy with worn ring lands and broken rings on one piston. It didn't make a sound, but I could feel the loss of power on one cylinder.

If you have a cam gear with an aluminum center check there for noise and loosness.

BTW, I knew they were broken rings because I removed that piston and changed the rings. Three days later I learned that I should have changed the piston at the same time, because the new rings broke again.

Last edited by Tom Wesenberg; 04-23-2012 at 12:29 AM.
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Old 04-22-2012, 10:27 PM   #8
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Let's see. Used the stethascope(sp) an it definately #'s 1 or 2. Fiber cam gear and no noise in that area. Fanbelt off and still clicks. I've got about 40 miles on since installation. Stock B engine, new valves/guides and rings. Like I mentioned I'm at my wits end and need to know if a broken ring could do it. I think all other variables have been explored. Valve cover has been off 5 times looking for this sucker!
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Old 04-23-2012, 12:09 AM   #9
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I run a B engine with a click like a valve clearance proble--middle of the engine. I'm convinced it's too much clearance on the center cam bearing. Engine runs great, clicking almost goes away after the engine gets good and warm.
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Old 04-23-2012, 12:25 AM   #10
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Are you running the "B" fuel pump? (might be a suspect)
If it were mine, I might add 1/2 to maybe 1 bottle of STP to see if the viscosity change might affect the noise. No, I'm NOT a proponent of additives! I might also just drive it lovingly and see what develops. Bill W.
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Old 04-23-2012, 12:32 AM   #11
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Have you tried shorting the plugs for #1 and #2 to see if the noise changed?

It's better to short the plugs rather than pull the leads away, as the coil can short when the spark isn't sent to ground.

Last edited by Tom Wesenberg; 04-23-2012 at 05:23 AM.
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Old 04-23-2012, 01:05 AM   #12
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I've shorted the plugs at different speeds. Both have a good rpm drop. The noise seems to get louder when warm. I did think I noticed the noise getting a little erattic today when I got up around 40 but can't be sure. I've also dosed the gas with liberal amounts of MMO. #1 cylinder did have some scoring when I put it together but didn't go all the way up and I honed it down pretty well.
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Old 04-23-2012, 07:34 AM   #13
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Default Re: Hope you can help

This one started out sounding like a valve clicking. You could be on to something. This one ended having more brass in it than cast iron,LOL.
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Old 04-23-2012, 07:39 AM   #14
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Try that last one again.
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Old 04-23-2012, 08:01 AM   #15
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Default Re: Hope you can help

Peter, any chance it might be a loose valve seat? We had one like that on Dad's 30 P/U, chased a click for a day, then pulled the head. Every thing looked OK so I spun it over, then No. 2 Ex. Popped up wearing the seat insert. then it fell back to the block and we had our noise.
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Old 04-23-2012, 09:38 AM   #16
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Default Re: Hope you can help

Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter J View Post
I've shorted the plugs at different speeds. Both have a good rpm drop. The noise seems to get louder when warm. I did think I noticed the noise getting a little erattic today when I got up around 40 but can't be sure. I've also dosed the gas with liberal amounts of MMO. #1 cylinder did have some scoring when I put it together but didn't go all the way up and I honed it down pretty well.
Any idea what your piston clearance is after honing? Piston slap tends to have more of a clatter type noise but tough to say for sure. I've also seen "tickers" caused by subtly bent connecting rods.
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Old 04-23-2012, 10:33 AM   #17
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I didn't check any clearance except the rings. It definately sounds metallic. No valve inserts so that's not it. James, that's ugly! Ive tried to check out the bore through the spark plug hole but couldn't get enough light down there. I'm going to test compression today. Hopefully I'll get a drop. I'll report back on my findings. I'm real uncomfortable with the "drive it until it breaks" theory.
Pete
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Old 04-23-2012, 10:34 AM   #18
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Default Re: Hope you can help

James, with the snap ring still in place, how do you explain all that damage on that end of the piston?
Did a broken end of the other snap ring travel through the hollow wrist pin and get jammed in that end?
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Old 04-23-2012, 10:37 AM   #19
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Quote:
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I didn't check any clearance except the rings. It definately sounds metallic. No valve inserts so that's not it. James, that's ugly! Ive tried to check out the bore through the spark plug hole but couldn't get enough light down there. I'm going to test compression today. Hopefully I'll get a drop. I'll report back on my findings. I'm real uncomfortable with the "drive it until it breaks" theory.
Pete
When I worked at the GM dealership I used to make bore lights by connecting thin wires (such as used for earphones) to a small side marker bulb. This would easily fit down the plug holes on Vega engines to check for scored cylinder walls.
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Old 04-23-2012, 10:54 AM   #20
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Default Re: Hope you can help

Mine has a tick that comes from the oil pump, still works fine and someday I will tear it apart and rebuild it.

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Old 04-23-2012, 01:03 PM   #21
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Quote:
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James, with the snap ring still in place, how do you explain all that damage on that end of the piston?
Did a broken end of the other snap ring travel through the hollow wrist pin and get jammed in that end?
Ya know Tom, I really don't know. I was puzzled by that very thing when I took the engine apart and the keepers were still in their holes.The one in the first picture was just like that and showed wear on the part that stuck out. The one in the second picture was worn like it had been sliding up and down the cylinder wall but had tension and was still in the groove. I don't think the pin ever touched the cylinder wall just the clips. I also had an engine come in that had inserts on the mains using MG or some bearings like that and the rods had inserts in the caps with babbitt in the rods, talk about shadetree. If you work on these long enough you will see some crazy stuff.
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Old 04-23-2012, 01:22 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter J View Post
I've shorted the plugs at different speeds. Both have a good rpm drop. The noise seems to get louder when warm. I did think I noticed the noise getting a little erattic today when I got up around 40 but can't be sure. I've also dosed the gas with liberal amounts of MMO. #1 cylinder did have some scoring when I put it together but didn't go all the way up and I honed it down pretty well.
Could be a slight bend or twist in the rod. Which could cause the small end of the rod to be hitting the piston, from moving side to side. Did you check your rod piston ass'y on a rod checker.

Last edited by George Miller; 04-23-2012 at 05:12 PM.
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Old 04-23-2012, 04:55 PM   #23
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I wonder if the damage wasn't done during installation of the new pistons and rings when an oil ring slipped out of the ring compressor before it entered the top of the cylinder?
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Old 04-23-2012, 10:09 PM   #24
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No George I did not. Funny thing was when we test ran it for about a minute, I wasn't making any noise. I still need to do a compression check which seems to be the only logical step. I don't know if a busted ring would show a drop though.
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Old 04-25-2012, 10:06 AM   #25
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Thanks Guys,
I remembered that the definition of crazy is doing the same thing over and over and expecting different results. I'm just going to pull the head and look. I would have to do it anyway (wife is thrilled). I'll pass on my findings.
Thanks,
Pete
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