Issues Trying to Start My Ford Model A!

[KeansClassics]

I have spent some time this week trying to get my 1930 Ford Model A Murray Bodied Town Sedan to run. I took off the top part of the distributer from the points on up and cleaned everything as well as the spark plugs. I cleaned the points, as well as any connections from distributer to the coil. I can't seem to get any spark to the points/plugs. I went out and got a new 6 volt coil to put on the car and will try and get that installed tomorrow. Does anyone have any ideas why I'm not getting spark? The lights do work if that helps any, so I know there is power running through some of the wires.

Also the carburetor is giving me some trouble. When I put gas in the tank everything was fine, the fuel flowed down into the carb and the float did as it should and didn't cause any overflow. When I go to try and start the car I push the retard lever all the way up and the throttle lever all the way down. I turned the fuel mixture/choke rod all the way to the right and turned it out half way to set the mix. Then I pull out the choke and hit the starter and all that happens is fuel builds up behind the choke butterfly disk and when I let out gas spills out. Does anyone know what would cause this? Maybe a jet or passage is clogged up causing this to happen? I did take the carb off and tore it down but was called away from the job so I will have to look at it more tomorrow.

If anyone has any information that would help remedy the problems that would be great!

Thanks!

[Tom Wesenberg]

Did you use the timing pin to set the timing? If so, where was the rotor pointing when the pin dropped into the dimple?

I never use the choke for more than about one revolution or you can flood the engine as you found out. Also I never pull the throttle down more than two notches for starting, or the engine will race way too fast.

[Mike V. Florida]

When I read about a car with no spark I suggest the following. This is a general step by step troubleshooting guide.

Some possibilities are:
1.Blown or defective fuse (use of a fuse is an aftermarket item)
2.Bad connections at ammeter, or ammeter itself (ti find out put a jumper wire from one post of the terminal box to the other to take the ammeter out of the circuit temporarily)
3.Bad ignition switch and/or cable, or loose cable connection at switch.
4.Loose or broken wires at bottom of coil
5.Loose or broken wires inside terminal box
6.Loose, bare or broken pigtail wire under distributor plate, or wire grounding to plate or distributor body
7.Points not opening, or point arm grounding to cam due to worn rubbing block
8.Worn electrode in underside of distributor cap
9.Loose or broken high tension wire from coil to cap
10.Condenser burned out or grounding (some condensers are too long and can touch the distributor body inside)
11.Weak coil
12.Rotor not turning due to loose cam screw or bad timing gear.


Ok now break out a volt meter (a light bulb can give false readings).
Start at the fuse block, you should have voltage on both sides of the fuse. If you only have voltage on one side, replace the fuse of fuse block.

Now with voltage on both sides of the fuse, move up to the junction box. There should be voltage at both terminals. If voltage is present only on one side the problem is at the ampmeter and you should Jumper the ampmeter for now.
You should have voltage on both sides of the coil. If not,
remove the red wire on the coil and check again. If you now have voltage on both sides, you have a problem further on. If the voltage is still only in one side you have a bad coil.

Open the points with a piece of paper and remove the condenser. Turn the key on and you should have voltage at the points.
Replace the condenser and you should still have voltage.

If voltage is missing, remove the top plate and check for voltage on the bottom plate.

Check is the connector from the ignition switch screwed in to far? Do you have voltage on the wire to the upper plate?

Is this wire shorting to ground or broken?

Are the point closing.
Let us know what you find.

[Great Lakes Greg]

Mike V covered about everything, and some stuff I didn't even think of. I am also agreeing with Tom on his "one revelution" method with the choke. I put my throttle less than a quarter of the way down, maybe two or three clicks.

[700rpm]

Remove your ignition cable from the distributor, turn your key on, and scratch the end of the ignition cable on a head nut. If you have spark, you know the problem lies in the distributor. If you have spark when you scratch the head nut, put the cable back in the dist. Don't screw the cable into the dist. body too tightly. Break your points and see if you have spark at the points. If not, your problem is in the distributor. A common problem is a shorted wire in the upper plate. At the same time hold your coil wire slightly off a head nut. You should have a good 1/4" spark from the coil wire to the nut. If you don't, you might have a bad coil; then try some of Mive V.'s suggestions. A bad coil is pretty rare in my experience.

Let us know what you find out.

[columbiA]

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Have the dist cam in a position where if you turn the cam to take up backlash,it will open & close the points.Then while moving cam back & forth,see if you get good spark when holding coil wire about 1/4" from cyl head or nut.If no spark,take a screw driver & rub both sides of points at same time.If you now have spark,then the points are dirty or may need replacing.Point gap should be.018-.020".Make sure the coil wire has real wire inside & is not a carbon filled one.The wire under the breaker plate could be grounding out to the hsg-a fairly common problem if the wire is too stiff & frayed.