Brakes

[tanner]

I just replaced all my lines with "inline Tubes" from NPD ($115.00) or you can buy them direct from inline. Perfect fit on my 49 F1. I DIDN'T WANT TO CHANCE BENDING AND DOUBLE FLARING MYSELF.

http://www.inlinetube.com/

[RCM]

Thanks tanner. About the sequence? Is there a proper sequence or I might just as well disassemble everything, install the mc (bench bled), the wheel cylinders and start bleeding at the furthest?

[scicala]

Originally Posted by tanner

I just replaced all my lines with "inline Tubes" from NPD ($115.00) or you can buy them direct from inline. Perfect fit on my 49 F1. I DIDN'T WANT TO CHANCE BENDING AND DOUBLE FLARING MYSELF.

http://www.inlinetube.com/

I used Inline Tube stainless brake lines on my '55 Ranch Wagon too. They fit perfect and looked 100% original right down the the rock guards and wrap. Could not imagine better quality, especially for the price.

Sal

[tanner]

I don't think it matters about the sequence. We always did all the necessary work and started bleeding. It's messy without a bleeder system (which I don't have) but 100% effective. Just be sure not to pump the pedal with a bleeder valve open.
When I get a firm pedal I like to drive it a bit and recheck for any air in the lines. Be sure to keep the m/c full of fluid during the process. Touch up the adjustment and you should have a full, firm pedal.

[bobss396]

Always start with the longest line first, RR, LR, RF, LF. Getting the most air out as quick as possible helps the rest of the bleeding. I tried a vacuum bleeder (borrowed) for the first time, made it a lot faster. Then I went around the car the 2nd round and bled them the old fashioned way.

[parklane]

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Yes, start at the right rear, then left rear, right front, left front, and do one at a time.

[RCM]

OK guys, my thoughts were the same.
I'll keep in touch.
Regards