Removing a snap ring

[Clem Clement]

I'm trying to pop off a snap ring on the front of a '39 Tranny. I don't have the correct tool. One end cut slants inward and the other outward.
Assistance please

[PeteVS]

I don't think that there's a tool for taking one apart with the ends cut as you mention. I figure that when they make the rings, they start with straight stock and cut it into lengths with the cut on an angle and then they form the circle. The way I undo them is to hold something against the outside of the ring close to the end that you can'r grab to keep it from rotating. Then, get a small screwdriver under the "friendly" end of the ring and lift it out and up and work it around. When you install a new ring, cut the "unfriendly" end so that it will be easier to get it apart the next time. FWIW.

[texas webb]

And put a shop towel around it so you don't loose it.

[RalphM]

Originally Posted by texas webb

And put a shop towel around it so you don't loose it.

Also keep you from shooting your eye out kid.

[Charlie ny]

Clem,
I use a cut off wheel in my air grinder and grind off a chord which weakens
the ring enough to twist it off.

Give VanPelt a call....Mac has these rings made new to orig FORD specs except with squared ends.
Charlie ny

[Mac VP]

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There was a whole discussion about this on an older thread here on the fordbarn. I useful to grind an opposed slant into the one end of the snap ring (using a slender cutter bit in my Drexel) so that my lock ring pliers could spread it. However, now we just work a small pointed pick tool under either end of the snap ring and tap it in enough to pop up the ring.....that will be enough to get one end up and out of the groove. Then we just use a screwdriver and hammer to force the rest of the ring out the rest of the way.

All of our snap rings are made to the original thickness and all have the opposed tips so that your lock ring pliers can remove or install them easily. As a rule, we never reuse old snap rings.......

[big job]

Yes there is a tool for those. I bought one from Ford New Holland typical snap rings on
backhoe pins.

[Clem Clement]

Thanks Mac. You are the best.
The whole project is headed for failure, but I charge on. The tranny in question is my famous "one piece" tranny. It was left out in the weather open for 30+ years and all gears are frozen together. I soaked it for a week in vaporust. the rust is gone except where the gears mesh and the bearing surfaces. So far one set of ball bearings are loose and the little gear dropped down. Fun winter project.
I'm stuck with the dissy removal on my '39 so beating on a tranny is good therapy.
Happy New Year.

[rotorwrench]

You will learn a lot just taking one apart. Your case is the part that will make it or break it. After it's all apart, you can find out whether it will be usable or not.

[deuce_roadster]

I never put one of those hated Ford snap rings back on without grinding the "wrong" slanted end so that normal snap ring pliers will work. I have found that lots of bad language makes me feel better when I do get them off.

[Bored&Stroked]

You can also just use a pair of vice-grip pliers - grab hold of the snap-ring and pull it out of the groove. Simple and easy!

[Clem Clement]

No space for the vice grips I own. We got close tonight. Still trying

[Tim Ayers]

I have a pair of pliers that I got from Sears that work wonders for this application. No idea what they are for, but they have these little flat knurled pads on them that do a good job of getting in there and spreading the ring just enough to get if off.

I did purchase Mac's "refined" snap rings to make it easier putting it back to together.

Clem,

Let me know if you want to borrow those pliers. I'll mail them to you. Would take about 2 days to get to you.

[russcc]

As Mac suggest is his book, and here. Work the in facing bevel end out with a small pick or screwdriver until you get enough space between the snap ring and bearing to insert a little larger screwdriver, and work it up out of the groove. It distorts the snap ring a little, but you can hammer it back in shape, grind the out facing bevel end the correct way, reuse it or buy a new one from Mac.

[Clem Clement]

Still trying. I'm working thru the TO Bearing lube hole. Wife broke a nail so I'm at it alone now...

[40 Deluxe]

You might try the Loan A Tool program at O'Reilly's or Auto Zone. They might have a snap ring plier kit that has what you need.

[Charlie ny]

Clem,
Are things freed up enough so you can knock the cluster shaft out of the case ,give it a try.Once the shaft is out force, if you must, the cluster into the bottom of the case. With the cluster gear on the bottom you should be able to yank the main

drive gear out of the case and get it a vise, then worry the snap ring off.
Charlie ny

[Bored&Stroked]

Hey Clem - I didn't realize that the input shaft was still in the trans - my mistake!

I'm with Charlie - you should be able to pull it right out of the front with the snap-ring on. If the cluster is in the way of the synchro teeth, then drive out he cluster main shaft and that will drop the cluster into the bottom of the case - giving the extra room you need to pull the main input shaft right out of the front. Once out - many options to get the snap-ring off. If the front bearing is good, really no reason to even take it off! Best of luck.

[Clem Clement]

Exciting. The cluster shaft moves. Next step is pound it out.
I guess you guys should know what I'm playing with. this is a 39 tranny that has sat out in the woods open for...wait for it...39yers. A famous 1 piece tranny. I soaked it for 2 weeks in used evaporust and that cleaned much of the gears. it has been soaking in Kroil for a year.Now I want to take it apart and learn about the tranny. The little gear and short shaft are loose. it would be fun to see all the gears free turning. I'll keep you posted.

[Bored&Stroked]

Clem - I have to give you credit! You are one focused and driven individual! You've been preparing this "one piece tranny" for a year - just so you could take it apart and see what it is all about . . . now that is dedicated to a personal cause! I wish you the best of luck and if you drop me your eMail, I'll send you a little booklet on 39 Transmissions that I put together with the help of another guy who is into them as well. It might help you along . . .

[Clem Clement]

I pounded on the cluster shaft both ways. It id out. Very little rust on the ends.

Now I understand I can pound on a dead U joint and some of the main shaft will come out. So far no luck. Cluster is down. Too much fun for one day: Dissy work and tranny -pounding

[Clem Clement]

More pounding with no effect. What I'm doing: I have a bad Uni installed and am pounding on its downwind end. I think the entire main shaft should move forward., bearing included? Is this correct? (the gears are frozen as are the bearings)

[Cecil/WV]

Originally Posted by Clem Clement

Still trying. I'm working thru the TO Bearing lube hole. Wife broke a nail so I'm at it alone now...

What size nail did she break?? A spike or a finish nail??

[cas3]

you have the cluster gear down in the bottom of the case, so the front input shaft should pull out the front, then the main shaft where you are pounding on a dead u joint, should go forward, bearing and all, if you have the snap ring off the rear bearing

[Clem Clement]

Rear snap ring is off. Rust is the challenge gripping on the bearing sides.

[cas3]

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clem, i've hardly been able to sleep at night...hows the project going?

[Clem Clement]

Sorry Delayed for live tasks, snow, and nuc testing . Snowing and cold here, I need to fetch some big wood blocks outa the yard so I can set the tranny face down. Then I can pound better. Everything is rusty. I has been soaking a year now. I can't image a propane torch will free the bearings.
Cecil: index finger

[cas3]

i would leave the torch out of it for now. you could expand the bearing race=make it tighter, or you could expand the cast iron case too much, cool too quick=cracked case. maybe try to drive the main shaft towards the back, then once its out you can clean the race and the bore to try and drive to the front after its clean and oiled. good luck

[Clem Clement]

Are the thin washer-plates in each end of the main shaft holding movement of the mail shaft. My pounding seems to have a "Bounce" to it? It will be in the 20's tonite so the tranny goes outside to chill

[cas3]

not sure what you mean by "thin washer plates at each end". there should be one thin washer at the back next to the bearing, oil baffle its called, it fits thru the case. first gear should slide to allow you to drive the shaft and bearing to the rear, or not be a problem if trying to drive the shaft to the front. there was another thin baffle on the front bearing, which you have out? and the only other thin things are the thrust washers which were, and still should be, on each end of the cluster gear now laying on the bottom. it is possible with all this violence that they have become loose, but should just fall out i would think and you would see the loose parts. you may get some bounce if you are set up on soft wood. got any hardwood 4x4's ? i would set the back of the case on two 4x4's and try to drive it out the back, then clean it up and drive out the front to remove it. has it moved at all?

[Clem Clement]

Yes, oil baffles sorry I used the wrong name. I have the tranny set up on short2x6" piles. I pound down on the installed U joint. NO motion either way. Set up is outside where we will get 20's wx Sunday

[Clem Clement]

YAHOOOOOO!! I left the tranny out all night. The red wolf moon musta loosened the main shaft bearings. Motion about a 1/4". I rinsed the open space and will flog-on again to night. Supposed to be 9 in the morning

[Clem Clement]

I feel silly out on the cold pounding on a tranny. The main shaft moved back into original position. Moved again further toward off. Will pound again in the morning. I'll get it

[cas3]

keep going clem, you will win! an old friend used to yell while he was pounding "you inanimate object you" he thought it helped

[Clem Clement]

I got both bearings to move out/in 1/2 inch. I'm thrilled. I washed the binding surfaces with Kroil and lots of fine rust came out. 2cycles of in/oil. I also wondered if I pounding on the right place?? By using a bad uni I can put lots of pressure on the inside of the race. I don't have a tube shaped poundee to move the outside of the bearing. thus the ball bearing section is taking up some of the pounding force,
I'm off to take Momma to lunch and me a beer (When Momma asked what I was doing and would the tranny ever be useable I gave the wrong answer: no. I said this is a learning situation for me as I'm sure the gears themselves are rust-ruint… They came the "WHY???"

[tubman]

It's kinda like why some people like Harley-Davidson motorcycles : If you have to ask the question, you won't understand the answer.

[Clem Clement]

BOTH bearings are loose!!! As the gears are bigger than the front bearing surface, I now need to remove the small snap ring on the main shaft. maybe I can cut it with a chisel.
as the gears are still frozen on the main shaft, I may be beaten yet

[cas3]

what small snap ring? the main shaft will pull out the top all in one piece after the input shaft is out, and the cluster gear is down

[cas3]

hows it going clem?

[Clem Clement]

Bearings are loose on the box, but not out of the box. I think I'm. stuck

[B-O-B]

cutoff wheel is your friend.

[cas3]

i dont recall taking one apart that is as stuck as yours, but i believe the back gear, first gear must slide on the splines to get the bearing completely into the case for removing the main shaft assembly. if your bearing has stopped moving, check to see if that back gear is hitting something to stop all movement. you may have to get that gear loose too

[Clem Clement]

The main shaft is frozen as one peace. I'd like to remove the 7046 small snap ring and see what comes out.

[cas3]

7046?

[Clem Clement]

sorry; 7064. Small ring on the front shaft