The Ford Barn

metro1 · 03-21-2022, 02:08 PM

I have 1 broken push rod to replace. It measures end to end about 8 3/32 in. and is 1/4 in. dia. All the ones that I can find that say they are for this engine are 5/16 dia. and are longer. I did find one that is a Melling MPR-73 which is 7.96 in. but it is 5/16 dia. also. It seems like a larger dia. would not seat in the lifter correctly or would it work. If not where can I find the original size one?

Crankster · 03-21-2022, 02:34 PM

Before I forget to mention it, please keep in mind there was a run of aftermarket pushrods with (too small) improper socket clearance to fit properly with the ball adjuster, these tend to crack or break easily. Probably still some out there, lurking. Whatever you choose, make sure they fit the ball/socket properly.

There is some leeway in the pushrod length. Or put another way, after these many years many changes could have been made to the heads and such. So kind of want to look at both what is installed now, and also, where the ball adjusters are at right now in their adjustment when lash is set.

Are the ball adjusters all about "midway" in their travel, i.e. roughly an equal number of threads top and bottom? If you're really picky, could have custom length pushrods made. They are surprisingly affordable.

metro1 · 03-21-2022, 04:47 PM

Thanks for the reply. What do you think about the larger diameter of the current ones for sale? 1/4 vs 5/16..Do you think the 5/16 will be OK ? They would probably be stronger.

JimNNN · 03-21-2022, 04:52 PM

The new set of pushrods I put in my original 239 Y-Block last year were a bit longer and thicker than the originals were. I was concerned about that, so I started a thread before the installation, as well as talking to some folks over at Y-Blocks forever forum. To make a long story short, there was basically no problem, but of course I had to reset my valve lash. I don't remember all of the particulars of the installation, but here's a link to that thread. BTW, my new pushrods were from Elgin, a reputable company, and they were the only ones they listed for my car, a '54 wagon. So far I've had no issues whatsoever with the new rods, but I can't speak with any knowledge on your 292...other than you may consider replacing the whole set than just one. And make sure you address the issue that caused the broken pushrod. Good luck.

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=300510

darrell · 03-21-2022, 06:26 PM

they will all work as far as fit goes.

55blacktie · 03-21-2022, 06:52 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Metro, first of all, you need to determine why the pushrod broke and correct the problem.As it's been said, different heads used different pushrod lengths. You can find that information at ford-y-block.com. Even though your engine is a 59, your heads might not be original to the engine. You can check the aforementioned site for that as well.

I recommend replacing all of your pushrods with tubular, check the condition of your valve springs, and replace, as needed.

dmsfrr · 03-21-2022, 07:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 55blacktie

Metro, first of all, you need to determine why the pushrod broke and correct the problem.As it's been said, different heads used different pushrod lengths. You can find that information at ford-y-block.com. Even though your engine is a 59, your heads might not be original to the engine. You can check the aforementioned site for that as well. ...

From that link...
http://ford-y-block.com/rockerarm.htm

PUSH ROD LENGTH (Effective)
1954-55 3/16" radius ball 8.11"
1956-59 3/16" radius ball 7.98"
1960-64 3/16" radius ball 8.11"

Cylinder head ID chart...
http://ford-y-block.com/cylinderheadchart.htm

metro1 · 03-22-2022, 08:30 AM

Great information...Thanks !

KULTULZ · 03-22-2022, 09:08 AM

The push-rods bend as a result of bad engineering. This is common on the FYB as well as the FE. You want tubular hardened replacement push-rods. You need to ascertain the condition of the rocker arm pads as they wear quickly. If you studied the FYB valve-train (rocker arm offsets) you would understand why.

The varying length rods were as a result of FORD using varying rocker arm ratios and adjustment screws over production life. If any components have been changed during the service life, it will change the geometry and you need to study VALVE-TRAIN GEOMETRY. This is true on any push-rod engine.

- https://www.fordmuscle.com/news/vide...try-with-comp/

The fellows over at y-blocksforver.com seem to agree ISKY is the best source for valve-train components. Also consider a new set of springs.

Crankster · 03-22-2022, 05:42 PM

Running old, stale oxidized gasoline is a classic method to bend pushrods. It will burn but it tends to gum up valve stems in the guides, dries to a kind of glue. Maybe that isn't what happened here, but it's something to keep in mind.

Should at least inspect the other pushrods. A piece of plate glass will serve as a flat surface, narrow enough to allow the ends to hang over. Roll them to and fro, and look for obvious wobble or runout. I'd have to look it up to be sure but I think the limit might be .005". In other words, not very much. With the valve closed, when installed the pushrod can be spun with your fingers due to lash, and gross bends will be clearly visible in a strong light that way, too.

Ole Don · 03-24-2022, 07:53 PM

At one time, there were aftermarket six cylinder Ford pushrods that came close enough to use. They were 5/16, and had the correct ball ends. I bought one set where the ball on top was so deep, the aftermarket high lift cam bottomed out the ball at full lift. The pushrods were made with two ridges around the top. I just ground down the head to the second ridge and deburred it, then it was all good.

03-21-2022, 02:08 PM	#1
metro1 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2022 Location: Richmond,Virginia Posts: 131	Push rods for '59 292 cu in. I have 1 broken push rod to replace. It measures end to end about 8 3/32 in. and is 1/4 in. dia. All the ones that I can find that say they are for this engine are 5/16 dia. and are longer. I did find one that is a Melling MPR-73 which is 7.96 in. but it is 5/16 dia. also. It seems like a larger dia. would not seat in the lifter correctly or would it work. If not where can I find the original size one?

03-21-2022, 02:34 PM	#2
Crankster Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2017 Posts: 563	Re: Push rods for '59 292 cu in. Before I forget to mention it, please keep in mind there was a run of aftermarket pushrods with (too small) improper socket clearance to fit properly with the ball adjuster, these tend to crack or break easily. Probably still some out there, lurking. Whatever you choose, make sure they fit the ball/socket properly. There is some leeway in the pushrod length. Or put another way, after these many years many changes could have been made to the heads and such. So kind of want to look at both what is installed now, and also, where the ball adjusters are at right now in their adjustment when lash is set. Are the ball adjusters all about "midway" in their travel, i.e. roughly an equal number of threads top and bottom? If you're really picky, could have custom length pushrods made. They are surprisingly affordable.

03-21-2022, 04:47 PM	#3
metro1 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2022 Location: Richmond,Virginia Posts: 131	Re: Push rods for '59 292 cu in. Thanks for the reply. What do you think about the larger diameter of the current ones for sale? 1/4 vs 5/16..Do you think the 5/16 will be OK ? They would probably be stronger.

03-21-2022, 04:52 PM	#4
JimNNN Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Posts: 522	Re: Push rods for '59 292 cu in. The new set of pushrods I put in my original 239 Y-Block last year were a bit longer and thicker than the originals were. I was concerned about that, so I started a thread before the installation, as well as talking to some folks over at Y-Blocks forever forum. To make a long story short, there was basically no problem, but of course I had to reset my valve lash. I don't remember all of the particulars of the installation, but here's a link to that thread. BTW, my new pushrods were from Elgin, a reputable company, and they were the only ones they listed for my car, a '54 wagon. So far I've had no issues whatsoever with the new rods, but I can't speak with any knowledge on your 292...other than you may consider replacing the whole set than just one. And make sure you address the issue that caused the broken pushrod. Good luck. https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=300510 Last edited by JimNNN; 03-21-2022 at 05:01 PM.

03-21-2022, 06:26 PM	#5
darrell Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: p.e.i. Posts: 1,060	Re: Push rods for '59 292 cu in. they will all work as far as fit goes.

03-21-2022, 06:52 PM	#6
55blacktie Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2020 Posts: 442	Re: Push rods for '59 292 cu in. Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Metro, first of all, you need to determine why the pushrod broke and correct the problem.As it's been said, different heads used different pushrod lengths. You can find that information at ford-y-block.com. Even though your engine is a 59, your heads might not be original to the engine. You can check the aforementioned site for that as well. I recommend replacing all of your pushrods with tubular, check the condition of your valve springs, and replace, as needed.

03-22-2022, 08:30 AM	#8
metro1 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2022 Location: Richmond,Virginia Posts: 131	Re: Push rods for '59 292 cu in. Great information...Thanks !

03-22-2022, 09:08 AM	#9
KULTULZ Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: IN A 'GALAXIE' FAR FAR AWAY Posts: 6,479	Re: Push rods for '59 292 cu in. The push-rods bend as a result of bad engineering. This is common on the FYB as well as the FE. You want tubular hardened replacement push-rods. You need to ascertain the condition of the rocker arm pads as they wear quickly. If you studied the FYB valve-train (rocker arm offsets) you would understand why. The varying length rods were as a result of FORD using varying rocker arm ratios and adjustment screws over production life. If any components have been changed during the service life, it will change the geometry and you need to study VALVE-TRAIN GEOMETRY. This is true on any push-rod engine. - https://www.fordmuscle.com/news/vide...try-with-comp/ The fellows over at y-blocksforver.com seem to agree ISKY is the best source for valve-train components. Also consider a new set of springs.

03-22-2022, 05:42 PM	#10
Crankster Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2017 Posts: 563	Re: Push rods for '59 292 cu in. Running old, stale oxidized gasoline is a classic method to bend pushrods. It will burn but it tends to gum up valve stems in the guides, dries to a kind of glue. Maybe that isn't what happened here, but it's something to keep in mind. Should at least inspect the other pushrods. A piece of plate glass will serve as a flat surface, narrow enough to allow the ends to hang over. Roll them to and fro, and look for obvious wobble or runout. I'd have to look it up to be sure but I think the limit might be .005". In other words, not very much. With the valve closed, when installed the pushrod can be spun with your fingers due to lash, and gross bends will be clearly visible in a strong light that way, too.

03-24-2022, 07:53 PM	#11
Ole Don Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: St. Michael, Minnesota Posts: 1,713	Re: Push rods for '59 292 cu in. At one time, there were aftermarket six cylinder Ford pushrods that came close enough to use. They were 5/16, and had the correct ball ends. I bought one set where the ball on top was so deep, the aftermarket high lift cam bottomed out the ball at full lift. The pushrods were made with two ridges around the top. I just ground down the head to the second ridge and deburred it, then it was all good.