1932 Coupe body assembly order?

[Fredb_]

Hello, my project is not necessarily “traditional” but my question should apply for stock as well as original body parts on a modified 32, so please bear with me. I am dry fitting my front end body prior to block sanding and paint. Is there a recommended order for putting the front end together on a 32 Coupe?

Thanks

[DavidG]

Compared to the model years that follow, the front end of '32 is relatively straight forward as the front fenders do not mate up directly with anything attached to the body. I'm sure that others have their preferred sequence, but I mount the radiator and radiator shell once the body is in position with the door fits as desired and then measure the openings for the hood tops and hood sides are exactly the same on both sides. (It is an interesting coincidence that the original hood hinge stainless steel molding is exactly 32 inches long.) I attach both front fenders (the rear fenders and running boards have been attached earlier) without anything more than finger tightening all the fender and running board fasteners, the head lamp bar, and if it is a V8, making sure that the center of the V8 emblem on the headlamp bar lines up with the center bars of the grill. Then I tighten the fasteners alternating from side to side starting with the rear fenders and frame horn covers at the rear of the frame.

If you do not have the original hard core hood lacing, you may have to shore up the soft core lacing on the cowl to obtain good alignment between the moldings on the hood sides and the body belt rail starting at the front of the cowl.

Also, likely you already know that the last two body to frame attachments have hard rubber pads between the body and chassis frame with the forward of the two 1/8" thick and the rearward one 1/4" thick (and no webbing).

Further, to prevent metal fatigue and eventual cracking of the sheet metal in the area where the lower back panel joins the quarter panels, Ford substituted a longer bolt and spring (similar to the radiator-to-frame attachment) on certain body types (one of which was standard coupes like yours) for the carriage bolt for the rearmost-attachment.

I've added Ford's illustration of the modified rearmost attachment.

[Fredb_]

David,
Thanks for your detailed response. This is my first experience with a 32 Coupe so all information is good. I acquired the project from the family of a good friend that passed and taking up where he left off. Learning as I go.

[Karl Wescott]

Originally Posted by DavidG

... (It is an interesting coincidence that the original hood hinge stainless steel molding is exactly 32 inches long.)...

And 1928-29 hood hinge rod = 28 1/2", 1930-31 30 1/2", 1933 center hinge = 33" (carried through to 1936 though).

[Corn Fed]

I would do as DavidG says, except add that I would align the hood with the fenders off. You will probably have the hood on and off a dozen times and having the fenders off makes it much easier. Plus, you may even have to remove the radiator and file holes to get it to all align.

[DavidG]

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Interesting. With respect, I've installed a fair number of hoods on '32 Fords over the years and I do not recall one instance where I had to remove the hood once installed in order to achieve a good fit. It was a good fit the first time around because of carefully measuring the opening between the cowl and radiator shell and the hood panels themselves and tailoring the opening to the dimensions of the hood panels. Unless something is bent out of shape, trial and error should not be required. I believe it likely that Ford used a somewhat similar measurement method with fixtures.

[Corn Fed]

David, I am taking into consideration that the OP is building a street rod that most likely has some combination of an aftermarket radiator, frame, grille, hood, and a modified firewall. If it was all nice OEM Henry parts he might get lucky and not need to do any adjustments.

[alchemy]

I assembled a 32 tudor about 15 years ago that had all its original parts (frame, sheetmetal, radiator brace rods, etc.), except for a brand new Walker radiator. I also had the hood on and off a few times just getting that radiator fit properly. If more than one part is changed, I can guarantee it will take a few attempts.

[DavidG]

I prefer my experience with a dozen '32s to your single experience. In fairness, using a non-original radiator would likely require some tweaking. My comments are based on using only original components.

[Fredb_]

I appreciate all the comments and discussion as it will help me tackle whatever I might encounter with my parts being some original and some aftermarket. I'll let y'all know how it goes when I get on it again soon.

[Fredb_]

Here's an update on my progress. Quite a bit of putting together and taking apart with small adjustments along the way. Don’t have correct hood lacing but it’s pretty close at this point.
Question:
Does the aftermarket firewall have screws attaching it to the cowl aside from the two bolts that go through the rear hood bracket? I was thinking maybe screws going through the hood lacing.

Originally Posted by Fredb_

Hello, my project is not necessarily “traditional” but my question should apply for stock as well as original body parts on a modified 32, so please bear with me. I am dry fitting my front end body prior to block sanding and paint. Is there a recommended order for putting the front end together on a 32 Coupe?

Thanks

[DavidG]

No, it is just like the original firewall in that regard, just those two direct attachments.