More bad luck or R.I.P.

[big job]

My sacred adj. valve lifter tool a genuine Ford part I had for 50yrs finnally
broke its ears. This is a one piece tool. Tried brazing it Nope. So I buy these
two piece tools. I know one goes to tighten one to loosen. Guess I bought
junk; looks like they suppose to lock on the next valve, which it does not.
Gotta be missing something. No I did not drill lifter bores 1/8" cause my ole
tool served well till it broke. So how in hell you use these also they do fit
some lifters and others they will not. Nothing on Utube. I understand how
they "should work" but these are not even close. Guess it will be the milling
machine again to make a product work. Oh the tabs prongs not even close
to the lifter holes had to file that. One more these are adj. lifters from the
Ford dealer in Ford boxes I bought way back when & they gave me the adjustment tool with them.... any thoughts beside retiring again or I threaten
myself and put solid lifters back in before I get a lawyers letter taking so long.

sam

forgive me I don't like to rant and can not condense writings never could..

[Andy]

The best solution is to buy a length of 1/8" model airplane music wire and cut off about 5". Bend it in the middle to form a V and then turn the ends down. Works great and is industructable.

[big job]

Originally Posted by Andy

The best solution is to buy a length of 1/8" model airplane music wire and cut off about 5". Bend it in the middle to form a V and then turn the ends down. Works great and is industructable.

Hi Andy not familiar with airplane wire= music wire yes. I have heated and
bent 1/8 drills - welded into a V. harden those and snapped like pretzels.
I also have pre set adj lifter nuts with a caliper to be close. Made my own
bent ground down wrench and hardened that. These bolts are real stiff.
Another teaser. no 1, up, can't get a feeler in there piston about 3/4 down
now i can??? both cam gears right on. same gears . What happened to
piston up valves closed on no. 1 = distributor on number 1 and can't get feeler
Gage in there at .014 Ex but .010 will? turn crank down now .014 will. All I
can say almost $300 for new original cam from Early Ford V8 ain't clocked right.

[pooch]

Weld 2 allen keys together in a V and shorten tabs to suit.

[tubman]

There was a thread on the H.A.M.B. a couple of years ago where a guy made a device out of a coupling nut (you, know, the loooong nuts) and a couple of short bolts. t went between the top of the lifter and the bottom of the top of the block (sounds strange, but I think you understand). He then tightened up one of the bolts that locked it in place. allowing the valve to be adjusted. I think there was a little more to it than than but he said it was simple to use and worked well. Might be worth a search.

[rotorwrench]

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The high speed steel that drill bits are made from is too hard & brittle for a spanner. Milder steel rod would likely work better to fit the holes in the tappet. Even the Johnson tools are inadequate many times. Not all have the same size or spacing on the holes which makes it even tougher. A person wants those adjusters tight but some are a bit too much. It's too bad there isn't enough room for a collet type lock nut on the adjuster but the space is just not there. 90 degree snap ring pliers are generally too big to fit in the valley well but a tool similar to that may work for most of the adjustable types. They can be a giant pain in the back side.

Is this an early engine with a press on cam gear or is it a bolt on?

[swedishsteel]

A piece of 1/8 welding rod bent like the picture in the previous post is strong enough. At least it has worked for me a couple time. Rod

[big job]

terrific ideas also its bolt on alum cam gear 59A

[rotorwrench]

On the valve timing, most all flathead Ford V8 engines are going to have lift action very close to top center or bottom center on the pistons and there is some valve overlap. I never pay much attention to piston location when adjusting the valves anyway.

[jetmek]

piston location doesn't mean diddly when adjusting valves. If you don't have the tool that bolts to the timing cover, turn engine till valve is fully open, mark pulley and rotate 1 full turn, adjust valve.

[Andy]

I have a dial that fits on the end of the crab distributer. It is marked with the firing order. I turn so the pointer is at a cylinder that is firing and adjust both valves. If the cylinder is firing,both valves are closed.

[big job]

Originally Posted by Andy

I have a dial that fits on the end of the crab distributer. It is marked with the firing order. I turn so the pointer is at a cylinder that is firing and adjust both valves. If the cylinder is firing,both valves are closed.

Yes Andy, We had that tool, we had a Sun distributor machine that vanished
into the great time machine or that mystery big hole in the floor everybody
has. LOL Also a Champion spark plug tester and sand blaster. Once the
plug was cleaned you turn on the spark and increase shop air until the
plug breaks down. It had two small mirrors so you see the spark. I remember
most used cleaned plugs broke down around 125psi. I dearly miss that one.
sam

[big job]

Anyways we got the job done, again taking cam gear off using my cam adaptor with
a ratchet. Another thing that threw me a false curve, is studying the original cam
with a mic is the heal is more on one side then starts to ramp up. And we had 6 eyes
confirming this. Then we spun cam with drill no valve noises. Holy smoke these throw
a lot of oil to the cam gears I thought that little special galley pug suppose to cut flow
down a little/ anyways I get 60psi with a 100rpm drill....