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05-22-2016, 05:54 PM | #1 |
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Condenser question
Would a condenser malfunction create a hesitation? My '37 is experiencing inconsistent hesitation. It runs OK for a while then an unexpected hesitation then runs fine again. I turned on the electric fuel pump to see if there was a possible fuel restriction but the hesitating continues. Before I take this apart, I could use some advice.
Thanks, -Dirk |
05-22-2016, 05:59 PM | #2 |
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Re: Condenser question
Sure when a condensor starts to fail (especially with heat) it will skip or miss cylinders feeling like a hesistation or drop out etc...
check this story on our web page of a actual customers condition... http://www.bubbasignition.com/condensors.html |
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05-22-2016, 06:02 PM | #3 |
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Re: Condenser question
Dirk, a hesitation is usually caused by an electrical issue. This can be anywhere from a faulty ground strap to your guess of a bad condenser. The condenser is a good place to start, but don't spend big money on replacing parts without first checking the minor things such as connections. Look also for carbon traces in the caps and loose rotors sparking to the distributor body.
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05-23-2016, 09:56 AM | #4 |
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Re: Condenser question
Could also be a sticky valve. Drizzle some MMO down the carb while the engine
is running and put a pint in the gas tank. Drive it 20 miles and see if that was the problem. Make sure you have close to 4.0 volts to the coil when the engine is running. Lower than 3.5 volts could cause this. To check condensers you need a test machine or a analog volt/ohm meter with a needle. Put the volt meter in a high ohm scale, touch one probe to the lead and the other to the body of the condenser. Every time you switch probes from body to lead the meter should jump up about a 3/4" and slowly drop back to zero. This will show how it should work if good. Almost EVERY one will test good when the condenser is cold. Now the real test. Heat the condenser with a heat gun or a propane torch from a distance. Heat it until you can't hold it between two fingers for more than about 1/2 second, this depends on how tuff your fingers are. Let the heat soak in a minute or so. Now repeat the ohmmeter test. If it acts like it did cold it's good. if the meter don't move or go's all the way up it's no good. G.M.
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05-23-2016, 12:07 PM | #5 |
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Re: Condenser question
My '41 suffered from the same problem. After much diagnosis it turned out to be the condenser.
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05-24-2016, 01:53 AM | #6 |
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Re: Condenser question
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05-24-2016, 06:24 AM | #7 |
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Re: Condenser question
Test a few and give us the results. G.M.
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05-25-2016, 07:18 PM | #8 |
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Re: Condenser question
I took your suggestions and applied them. The car runs very nice now. I replaced the the condenser and the coil (I had a Skip's rebuild on the shelf). I poured generous amounts of Marvel Mystery Oil down the Carburetor, in the oil and in the gas tank. The smoke screen the car put out would have made the Destroyers of Taffy 3 proud! (An esoteric WW2 reference)
You guys on this forum are smart! Many thanks! |
05-29-2016, 10:00 AM | #9 |
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Re: Condenser question
i have the same problem with my 37 . after search i find the good condenser . needs 0.21 to 0.25 micro farads values
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05-29-2016, 07:01 PM | #10 |
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Re: Condenser question
Better that condenser value is 0.28 mfd. to 0.36 mfd. on early Fords. Ford V8 factory specs were 0.34 mfd. to 0.36 mfd. Regards, Kevin.
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05-30-2016, 07:43 AM | #11 | |
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Re: Condenser question
Quote:
Heat them up and see how they work. That's when they fail. G.M.
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