Shocks-Houdaille vs. Modern Gas Tube

[Model A Fan]

I am looking to get my roadster up and running before I completely lose interest. My dilemma is the shocks right now as I have none. I was looking at the tube shocks from Mac's as a cheaper alternative to the Houdaille style.



Frankly I don't know If it is worth the extra money for the Houdaille versus the gas tube style (http://macsautoparts.com/model-a-for...0R3CHL1096481/).
I know it isn't authentic to go with the gas tube, but I can afford them (easier) and I would like to continue to make progress. I hardly ever see FUNCTIONAL and good shape Houdaille shocks for sale here. I have also seen "friction shocks" that were somewhat skeletonized, any idea what they are?



Any input or opinions would be appreciated. Thank you.

[Roadster62]

Personally I can't think of a more ugly feature on a Model A, be it a Restored one or fenderless Vintage Hot Rod, the clean look of the originals is well worth the cost IMO. Bob

[Mike V. Florida]

For the car in your avatar the tube shocks will work fine and save you a couple of bucks as the reproduction Houdaille don't seem to last.

The friction shocks are just that, they work on friction slowing the up and down motion of the car.

[Model A Fan]

They are in fact going on the car in my avatar. I figured that given the non-show plan for it, I was figuring it would not matter too much. I would like to be able to drive it and have fun. I noticed Sacramento Vintage doesn't carry the friction shocks like they used to...

How long do the Houdaille shocks last that are reproductions?

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by Model A Fan

They are in fact going on the car in my avatar. I figured that given the non-show plan for it, I was figuring it would not matter too much. I would like to be able to drive it and have fun. I noticed Sacramento Vintage doesn't carry the friction shocks like they used to...

How long do the Houdaille shocks last that are reproductions?

I have no personal experience with them, but from reading about them here on the forum, your experience may vary, but they tend to leak after a few short years and as they are sealed units, so you cannot refill them.

[pat in Santa Cruz]

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[QUOTE=

How long do the Houdaille shocks last that are reproductions?[/QUOTE]

I only bought one set of the cheaper repros. Stipes were not made then.. One of them broke almost immediately, I mean it broke...the shaft twisted off. Two more leaked to the point of uselessness within a year. I sent them back and will never use them again.

[Tom Wesenberg]

You can also drive with no shocks until you can afford the right ones. I still don't have the shocks connected on my Phaeton. Don't let shocks hold up progress. Once you can drive the car, things will be so much more fun to work on.

[Kevin in NJ]

From what I have read there are some set ups of tube shocks that work and others that are not as good. Do a search of the forum.

For original types there are 2 options the originals or the repro made by Stipe. The Stipe repros are not cheap at $900. Knowing how to select good original shocks and taking your time you can rebuild a set or have someone rebuild them for you. Generally speaking, if the shaft looks centered and the shock does not look nasty then you may have a shock that can be taken apart and cleaned and reassembled with new seals. You may have to buy some extras till you get enough good ones, but this is likely to be a lot cheaper.

Keep in mind that you need to have good springs on your car. My experience is a car with good springs should be a nightmare to drive above about 25 MPH. Any bump in the road and it will start bouncing all over, you truly feel like the car is going off the road. With the 30-31, looking from the front you should see about1/2 the axle below the front splash shield. I have found people that had no problem driving 45 MPH with no shocks also had their axles well hidden behind the shield. The shackles are also pushed way out.

In any case, good working shocks are important for safe driving in a properly restored A.

[Barry B./ Ma.]

I have rebuilt originals on the front of my 30 roadster and Snyders tube shocks on the rear. That combination works real well for me and gives a good ride. The tube shocks on the front give too stiff a ride. The rear tubes are easy to mount and only require one hole to be drilled on each end of the rear crossmember. I agree, the front tubes just don't look right on a Model A but the rear tubes are not so noticeable.

[George Miller]

If you use tube shocks, put them on a angle or they will be to severe for that light car. The tube shocks are made for a heaver car. Most that I have seen are straight up and down. That makes them to severe for a light car. If you put them on a angle it also helps to keep the front end from swaying back and forth if you go into a corner to fast with your speedster.

[2935ford]

I wouldn't bother with the Houdaille style shocks....to iffy.

They may have been Ok in the day and now for points cars but that's it.....IMHO

For me...modern tube shocks are the way to go.

[CarlG]

I have Ken Davis tube shocks on my pickup. They do a really good job and were very light on the pocketbook. No drilling for the rear shocks, one hole on each side for the fronts. I painted the shocks black (they came Blue) and they do not look out of place at all. The shocks that Ken puts in his kits are sized for use on a Model A, and give a very good ride.

[John LaVoy]

Several years ago we reviewed the tube vs original shocks. The tube shocks seemed too stiff for the Model A the cars they were made for were much heavier. If you insist on the tube shock invest in ones that have an adjustment so you can match the shock to your need. We found in our test that rebuild originals gave the best ride. The reproductions at the time were not made as the original and were not as good, the reproductions from Bill Stipe are very well done and we are running those on our roadster pickup project car.

[green30coupe]

Speedway has friction shocks.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Offenh...cks,24951.html

I have used friction shocks on the front, but not the rear. They keep the front end from bouncing and are adjustable.

[mhsprecher]

I have replacements/reprods on mine and they are adjusted. I don't know how old they are and they do not leak, but my car dances around a bit too much, especially the front axle. I had more bouncing before adjustment and one shock needed more adjustment than the others. It seemed to help the ride to make it right. I am not really interested in tube shocks for mine, I just want to make the ride as good and safe as possible. I may inquire of suppliers about some new replacements.

[Brother Hesekiel]

If you are aiming for a correct car and can afford the best, go with the Houdaille shocks.
If you are on a budget and just want to drive your car, tube shocks are fine.

I personally rather drive my roadster for years with tube shocks, than looking at it in my garage without any shocks at all.

[johnsor]

I tried tube shocks on my Roadster - too stiff. You may find used Houdaille shocks at swap meets or advertise for them on Fordbarn. They are available and economically rebuildable, as long as the shaft turns/moves with a wrench. If the the shaft is froze-up, forget them. There are a number of good shock rebuilders available. I have found that the best way to go.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Reread what George said in post #10. If I were to use tube shocks I'd want mounts that didn't require drilling any extra holes, nor any welding. If I couldn't buy them, then I'd make some and put the at an angle as George said.

[willobs]

I have original shocks on my 29 4dr sedan, work great! Have a 30 PU driver bought with no shocks, put Ken Davis kit on made a great difference in driving very happy !

[QGolden]

I like the Ken Davis package as well. That being said, if you can fabricate a roadster, you can fab up a shock kit. They are not too complicated, and can easily be bolt on.