The Ford Barn

psogden · 09-05-2016, 04:43 PM

Again, appreciate all the comments from you all. 3 more better pictures attached after further cleaning axle. I do have one of those Blue Point "thread fixer" tools which works like cutting a nut in half, etc. Will use it on the axle. Think John has it right in suggesting the "give it another try" approach & if it doesn't hold--time for a replacement axle (we all know how easy that job is).
I keep wondering about the wisdom of the deceased and long time V-8 Club adviser, Dick Flynn, who wrote many articles on all aspects of V-8s and obviously worked on countless cars, doing everything there is to do on them. His advice on torquing axles (knowing the official Ford guidelines of 200 foot-pounds) was to torque to 150-160 FPs. He claims never to have had a failure doing this.

VeryTangled · 09-05-2016, 04:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JSeery

Think we are getting things a little mixed up here, JM was posting some examples of what he considered good threads would look like.

Yes, or maybe PERFECT THREADS. Yes. That.

This one, not so much. Variance in diameter and thread height. Maybe could work sorta.

ford38v8 · 09-05-2016, 05:00 PM

I wouldn't have a problem with those threads at all. Just be sure your nuts are good!

Mr Dick Flynn has been a puzzlement to me for years. I'm sure he had forgotten more than I ever knew, but I also feel that some of his advice was questionable, which in itself puts a cloud over all his advice. That he professed that Amway products were the ultimate answer to every need was likely a big part of my skepticism, but then, I like Marvel Mystery Oil, so what do I know?

VeryTangled · 09-05-2016, 05:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by psogden

I do have one of those Blue Point "thread fixer" tools which works like cutting a nut in half, etc. Will use it on the axle.

Yes, you can do that Tomorrow. You can't undo that.

34fordy · 09-05-2016, 05:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VeryTangled

Yes, or maybe PERFECT THREADS. Yes. That.

This one, not so much. Variance in diameter and thread height. Maybe could work sorta.

I may be fairly new to the Fordbarn but not to good or poor threads--Those threads in the picture look quite poor to me--I believe you will be lucky to "resurrect" them--Don

JSeery · 09-05-2016, 05:51 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Looks savable to me.

psogden · 09-06-2016, 03:48 PM

I am awaiting the arrival of original used Ford axle nuts before trying again with my little torqueing project. Expect them by the end of the week. Have done a lot of research on the Internet to try to locate any source for a Grade 8 5/8” – 18 slotted nut. I found nobody who carries a Grade 8. Some carry a Grade 5. One supplier told me that this nut is no longer manufactured. This leads me to the conclusion that 5/8”- 18 nuts being sold today by old V-8 Ford parts suppliers are not Grade 8 unless they are very old stock. My obvious conclusion is that the ONLY way to go is to use the original Ford nut—no exceptions. In other words, unless you have the absolute assurance that a non Ford nut is a Grade 8, don’t use it. After I explained that his nut failed, the vendor who sold me the nut that failed is removing them from stock and will no longer sell them. He was appreciative of my letting him know.

VeryTangled · 09-06-2016, 06:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ford38v8

... but then, I like Marvel Mystery Oil, so what do I know?

Bought a gallon jug that had to be on the shelf for years, thick dust. Filling my quarts. Still clueless and a dollar fewer in pocket!

Talkwrench · 09-06-2016, 07:14 PM

Isn't this good enough........?

supereal · 09-07-2016, 05:09 PM

The correct Ford rear axle nuts are a specially hardened thick items that are to placed over a correct thick washer. No attempts to chase the threads should be attempted. If the threads are damaged, the axle must be replaced, or it is likely the end will separate and the wheel will fall off on the road. Don't put anything on the axel taper. It must be clean and dry to seat properly. We tighten the nuts with a breaker bar wrench with a pipe extension on the handle. Retighten after running the car around a hundred miles. Here is a good tip: mark the end of axle with a line to show where the cotter hole is with a file. If, after tightening, the hole doesn't line up with the slots in the nut, back off only to the next slot.

Capt Kirk · 09-07-2016, 06:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by talkwrench

isn't this good enough........?

lol!!!

Capt Kirk · 09-07-2016, 06:15 PM

I've got an axle with really good threads on the end...well, the other end not shown in the pic.

Capt Kirk · 09-07-2016, 06:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ford38v8

My 14" cheater bar (pipe) is in perfect calibration, thank you.

Required torque divided by body weight gives you the required ratchet length. For axle nuts I use a 6" ratchet

psogden · 09-12-2016, 04:55 PM

Update. Cleaned axle threads a bit using Blue Point tool. Then, using correct 5/8” - 18 good used Ford nuts obtained from unidentified source, was able to torque both rear drums to 175 FPs. As suggested by John (JM 35 Sedan), will drive the car a bit, then add 10 FPs repeating until I reach 200. Thanks again to everybody for your input.

JM 35 Sedan · 09-12-2016, 05:11 PM

Sounds like you are off to a flying start! If I recall correctly, the nut you used before with suspect material and heat treat failed at 175 ft lbs.

Mart · 09-13-2016, 02:10 AM

Hopefully as you reach the desired figure, you will have a conveniently located slot in the nut to put the pin in. It's a pain if you've just gone past one slot and are almost 60 degrees away from the next.

Mart.

psogden · 09-13-2016, 12:27 PM

Yes, the original nut I used (non Ford--less than Grade 8) failed at 175. & I had a lot of residue from the stripped nut threads to clean off the axle--but seemingly did not cause any damage to axle threads--which makes sense if you think about it. I was careful to make sure my new nut lined up with the cotter pin hole on the axle & only needed to make very minor adjustment. The 60 degree aspect is significant, I agree.

VeryTangled · 09-13-2016, 01:12 PM

Wow, Great result!

JM 35 Sedan · 09-13-2016, 06:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Talkwrench

Isn't this good enough........?

To me, it looks good enough for a circus tent peg assuming the other end is still attached.

Talkwrench · 09-13-2016, 07:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JM 35 Sedan

To me, it looks good enough for a circus tent peg assuming the other end is still attached.

Indeed! Was very happy to find a NOS to replace [Thanks Col] .
Never understood the great chunks filed or taken off the end of it .. ahh?

09-05-2016, 05:00 PM	#43
ford38v8 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: SF Bay Area Posts: 6,646	Re: Difficulties installing & torquing rear drum - Help! I wouldn't have a problem with those threads at all. Just be sure your nuts are good! Mr Dick Flynn has been a puzzlement to me for years. I'm sure he had forgotten more than I ever knew, but I also feel that some of his advice was questionable, which in itself puts a cloud over all his advice. That he professed that Amway products were the ultimate answer to every need was likely a big part of my skepticism, but then, I like Marvel Mystery Oil, so what do I know? __________________ Alan

09-05-2016, 05:51 PM	#46
JSeery Member Emeritus Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Wichita KS Posts: 16,132	Re: Difficulties installing & torquing rear drum - Help! Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Looks savable to me. Last edited by JSeery; 09-06-2016 at 06:27 PM.

09-06-2016, 03:48 PM	#47
psogden Member Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Auburn, CA Posts: 86	Re: Difficulties installing & torquing rear drum - Help! I am awaiting the arrival of original used Ford axle nuts before trying again with my little torqueing project. Expect them by the end of the week. Have done a lot of research on the Internet to try to locate any source for a Grade 8 5/8” – 18 slotted nut. I found nobody who carries a Grade 8. Some carry a Grade 5. One supplier told me that this nut is no longer manufactured. This leads me to the conclusion that 5/8”- 18 nuts being sold today by old V-8 Ford parts suppliers are not Grade 8 unless they are very old stock. My obvious conclusion is that the ONLY way to go is to use the original Ford nut—no exceptions. In other words, unless you have the absolute assurance that a non Ford nut is a Grade 8, don’t use it. After I explained that his nut failed, the vendor who sold me the nut that failed is removing them from stock and will no longer sell them. He was appreciative of my letting him know.

09-07-2016, 05:09 PM	#50
supereal Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Iowa Posts: 1,634	Re: Difficulties installing & torquing rear drum - Help! The correct Ford rear axle nuts are a specially hardened thick items that are to placed over a correct thick washer. No attempts to chase the threads should be attempted. If the threads are damaged, the axle must be replaced, or it is likely the end will separate and the wheel will fall off on the road. Don't put anything on the axel taper. It must be clean and dry to seat properly. We tighten the nuts with a breaker bar wrench with a pipe extension on the handle. Retighten after running the car around a hundred miles. Here is a good tip: mark the end of axle with a line to show where the cotter hole is with a file. If, after tightening, the hole doesn't line up with the slots in the nut, back off only to the next slot.

09-12-2016, 04:55 PM	#54
psogden Member Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Auburn, CA Posts: 86	Re: Difficulties installing & torquing rear drum - Help! Update. Cleaned axle threads a bit using Blue Point tool. Then, using correct 5/8” - 18 good used Ford nuts obtained from unidentified source, was able to torque both rear drums to 175 FPs. As suggested by John (JM 35 Sedan), will drive the car a bit, then add 10 FPs repeating until I reach 200. Thanks again to everybody for your input.

09-12-2016, 05:11 PM	#55
JM 35 Sedan Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Near Rising Sun, Maryland Posts: 10,859	Re: Difficulties installing & torquing rear drum - Help! Sounds like you are off to a flying start! If I recall correctly, the nut you used before with suspect material and heat treat failed at 175 ft lbs. __________________ *John* *"Never give up on what you really want to do. The person with big dreams is more powerful than one with all the facts". Albert Einstein*

09-13-2016, 02:10 AM	#56
Mart Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Solihull, England. Posts: 8,756	Re: Difficulties installing & torquing rear drum - Help! Hopefully as you reach the desired figure, you will have a conveniently located slot in the nut to put the pin in. It's a pain if you've just gone past one slot and are almost 60 degrees away from the next. Mart.

09-13-2016, 12:27 PM	#57
psogden Member Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Auburn, CA Posts: 86	Re: Difficulties installing & torquing rear drum - Help! Yes, the original nut I used (non Ford--less than Grade 8) failed at 175. & I had a lot of residue from the stripped nut threads to clean off the axle--but seemingly did not cause any damage to axle threads--which makes sense if you think about it. I was careful to make sure my new nut lined up with the cotter pin hole on the axle & only needed to make very minor adjustment. The 60 degree aspect is significant, I agree.

09-13-2016, 01:12 PM	#58
VeryTangled Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: (Not far enough...) Outside of DC Posts: 3,387	Re: Difficulties installing & torquing rear drum - Help! Wow, Great result! __________________ -Jeff H Have you thought about supporting the Early Ford V-8 Foundation Museum?