49-53 Load A Matic problem

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

Just another review of a typical 49-53 Problem. The primary lead wire runs under the point plate. Over time the plate rotates back and forth wearing the lead wire insulation off . This one ran fine but died when vac was applied t diaphrahm... Pain in the butt to replace and should be replaced with correct Ford lead wire . proper resistance and end hook ups...
AND dont use tape or shrink wrap as it will restrict advance..........

[oldford2]

Originally Posted by BUBBAS IGNITION

Just another review of a typical 49-53 Problem. The primary lead wire runs under the point plate. Over time the plate rotates back and forth wearing the lead wire insulation off . This one ran fine but died when vac was applied t diaphrahm... Pain in the butt to replace and should be replaced with correct Ford lead wire . proper resistance and end hook ups...

As Bubba says...replace with the correct FLEXIBLE lead. Don't try using shrink tubing since it will restrict the plate movement. Ask me how I know

[40 Deluxe]

What is the proper resistance of this wire, and are OEM ones available?

[tubman]

You are referring to the wire inside the distributor, aren't you? It's not exactly clear.

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

Originally Posted by 40 Deluxe

What is the proper resistance of this wire, and are OEM ones available?

Yes there are some new ol stock leads out there. I have a few but not for sale , only for use on a rebuild...

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

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Originally Posted by tubman

You are referring to the wire inside the distributor, aren't you? It's not exactly clear.

Yes under the breaker plate......

[scicala]

Originally Posted by 40 Deluxe

What is the proper resistance of this wire, and are OEM ones available?

I don't think there would be any resistance in this wire. Any resistors, if any would be to the coil +side.

Sal

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

Originally Posted by scicala

I don't think there would be any resistance in this wire. Any resistors, if any would be to the coil +side.

Sal

The primary ignition circuit is a special circuit designed to handle the voltages in the circuit....
Example :

In a 12 volt circuit (easier for me to explain) the battery voltage is 12.2 volts after sitting overnight. We have a 1.5 ohm coil and a 1.5 ohm resistor , when the engine starts each resistor drops approx 6 volts allowing a small voltage to cross the ignition contacts. ( amps is another story as amps are constant in a series circuit) . Thats cool until the alternator starts to charge and we then have to deal with 14.6 volts. Now the resistors heat up and offer slightly more resistance but the voltage at the contacts now is 2-3 volts. The primary lead is a finely stranded wire designed to drop this excess voltage to as close to zero as we can get...
Heres a couple examples laying on my desk from a Mustang and the NAPA buyers guide showing these leads . Offen times this lead changed every model year in a effort to make the points last longer . In our chevy conversion we buy a new lead for every unit from Standard Motor products.

The typical "hot rod guy" cuts this lead and replaces with new 12-14 gauge lead wire and upsets the entire balance of the system!!! Thinking this is the thing to do !!!

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

duplicate

[Ole Don]

On a 57 type distributor, the wire inside the dizzy is held with a clip, then the wire is held by a smaller clip on the same part. Because the vacuum advance moves really often the wire failed, but the insulation held firm. A real bugger to find.

[Ol' Ron]

Learn sumpin every day, till they throw dirt on ya. Another good reason to go electronic.

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

Originally Posted by Ol' Ron

Learn sumpin every day, till they throw dirt on ya. Another good reason to go electronic.

Common Ron , there is NO reason to go electronic on a flathead !!!, or fuel injected , or 12 volt?????

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

Originally Posted by Ole Don

On a 57 type distributor, the wire inside the dizzy is held with a clip, then the wire is held by a smaller clip on the same part. Because the vacuum advance moves really often the wire failed, but the insulation held firm. A real bugger to find.

Yep this one ran and tested good on the tester UNTIL you applied vacuum to the diaphrahm then the lights on the machine went out !!!!

[Ross F-1]

Many, many years ago I had a British car that would start and idle great, but sputter as soon as I tried to drive off. Drove me crazy trying to find the problem. It also had the wire under the points plate, and someone had replaced one of the screws holding the points down with one a little longer. That screw had cut into the wire and whenever the advance got to XX degrees, it would short out.

[rick r]

Agree with O'l Ron