The Ford Barn

scooder · 05-09-2015, 03:37 AM

Your right, there stuff does come from Mac's mostly, in the past I have got NOS power valves from them, seem so far to hold up against this new petrol, and work as there ment to, wouldn't surprise me if Belchers has NOS accelerator pumps (leather) in stock.
The cheap kits are good for gaskets though, it's the hard parts that ain't no good.
You said you had two base gaskets? Check the base of the carb and top of the throttle body for flatness, the carb base can warp. Two gaskets are often used to try to help make a seal, when infact they make it worse, the two gaskets "give" to much, so when the screws are tightened the carb base warps even more. An air leak here will have the power valve opening to early, or not even shut, due to the weakened vacuum signal to the power valve.
Martin.

Ianrhall · 05-09-2015, 03:52 AM

I think Dave oneil has a kit, will get it from him, not too many options really!
Martin, you far from Cambridge?
Ian

scooder · 05-09-2015, 04:54 AM

I think his is the same as the cheap ones, so just see it as a gasket set. Power valve may be useable using one of the gaskets. You can check it for sealing by fitting it, place the float bowl section on the throttle body section, fill float chamber with petrol and leave it over night. Check in the morning if the petrol has gotten past the power valve and it's gasket.
If the new accelerator pump is not leather, dont use it, if it is leather, compare with the original one for length. Ad I said earlier they often have the wrong one in the kit.
Not near Cambridge, I'm in Somerset where the cyder apples be.
Martin.

Ianrhall · 05-11-2015, 03:11 PM

One of the discharge nozzles at the top was blocked. The needle valve was sticking badly and the float level was way out. Fingers crossed,should be an improvement
Ian

scooder · 05-11-2015, 03:23 PM

Got to be better, nothing worse than pulling off a "bad" part, only to find there's nothing wrong with it.
If it's that poorly you should test the power valve. It should be nice and supple and spring back nicely. They get all hard if it's been in there a decade or two. If your gonna fit one from a kit, look closely that it sits right and seals with its gasket. Some times the gasket with the sort of triangle hole does the job, sometimes it's one of the round chaps. Seems to depend on where the power valve was made, there not all the same.
Make sure to do the float bowl full of fuel over night, to be sure of a seal.
Good luck,
Martin.

Ianrhall · 05-11-2015, 03:55 PM

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Is the leather part you refer to at the bottom of the rod? Mine is not leather and looks brand new as does the power valve. Suspect it's had a carb kit fairly recently.
So, to check power valve, fill float bowl, and leave over night?
Martin, where do you get your exhaust bends from? I have some cheap headers and hope to make my own dual system
Ian

scooder · 05-12-2015, 07:38 AM

The leather cup is on the end of the rod that goes down to the throttle.
The cheap kits have a Blue rubbery cup on them. These are troublesome. They can stick in the accelerator pump well, and they get all grumpy with this new bloody petrol. There often the wrong length aswell, as there actually for a Holley 885 (49-51 Merc carb) basically they just don't work properly. Belchers or Bob may have a good second hand one or NOS. On old ones I soke the leather in oil if there real dry, helps um work straight away. Once there in the petrol will keep um soaked.
The power valve test, yep to what you said.
Exhaust bends, I keep an eye out for cheap obsolete exhaust stock at fitting places or the bay called E. Often get them of the bay for 99p. If you want 2" landrover late series 3 tail pipe is 2" its got about seven bends and a squat little straight through glass pack in it. Normally about £25 from the cheap landy suppliers. Bargain. With a couple of these and some straight pipe your done.
I got the part number at home of you want, I'm a work now road testing a big Healy 3000, in the sunny west country, they even pay me to do it!
Martin.

Ianrhall · 05-12-2015, 08:01 AM

Ha, that sounds good, I have 2 brockman steel pack mufflers. These have 2" in and out, the headers only have 1 3/4" outlet. So my original idea was to fit reducers on either side of the mufflers
Ian

Ianrhall · 05-12-2015, 04:34 PM

Started fitting the headers tonight, the drivers side needs some fairly major surgery to clear the steering box, oh well they were quite cheap!!
Ian

Ianrhall · 06-19-2015, 04:35 PM

Finally got the truck back on its wheels today.
Starts ok ad long as I don't pump the gas.
Is running rich, new plugs fairly black/sooty although no black smoke from exhaust.
Runs better with the aircleaner off.
The mixture screws look wrong-have been changed at some point,doesn't make slot of difference when I screw them in or out. Are those screws available?
Ian

05-09-2015, 03:37 AM	#21
scooder Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Posts: 2,593	Re: Setting float level Your right, there stuff does come from Mac's mostly, in the past I have got NOS power valves from them, seem so far to hold up against this new petrol, and work as there ment to, wouldn't surprise me if Belchers has NOS accelerator pumps (leather) in stock. The cheap kits are good for gaskets though, it's the hard parts that ain't no good. You said you had two base gaskets? Check the base of the carb and top of the throttle body for flatness, the carb base can warp. Two gaskets are often used to try to help make a seal, when infact they make it worse, the two gaskets "give" to much, so when the screws are tightened the carb base warps even more. An air leak here will have the power valve opening to early, or not even shut, due to the weakened vacuum signal to the power valve. Martin.

05-09-2015, 03:52 AM	#22
Ianrhall Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Posts: 253	Re: Setting float level I think Dave oneil has a kit, will get it from him, not too many options really! Martin, you far from Cambridge? Ian

05-09-2015, 04:54 AM	#23
scooder Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Posts: 2,593	Re: Setting float level I think his is the same as the cheap ones, so just see it as a gasket set. Power valve may be useable using one of the gaskets. You can check it for sealing by fitting it, place the float bowl section on the throttle body section, fill float chamber with petrol and leave it over night. Check in the morning if the petrol has gotten past the power valve and it's gasket. If the new accelerator pump is not leather, dont use it, if it is leather, compare with the original one for length. Ad I said earlier they often have the wrong one in the kit. Not near Cambridge, I'm in Somerset where the cyder apples be. Martin.

05-11-2015, 03:11 PM	#24
Ianrhall Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Posts: 253	Re: Setting float level One of the discharge nozzles at the top was blocked. The needle valve was sticking badly and the float level was way out. Fingers crossed,should be an improvement Ian

05-11-2015, 03:23 PM	#25
scooder Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Posts: 2,593	Re: Setting float level Got to be better, nothing worse than pulling off a "bad" part, only to find there's nothing wrong with it. If it's that poorly you should test the power valve. It should be nice and supple and spring back nicely. They get all hard if it's been in there a decade or two. If your gonna fit one from a kit, look closely that it sits right and seals with its gasket. Some times the gasket with the sort of triangle hole does the job, sometimes it's one of the round chaps. Seems to depend on where the power valve was made, there not all the same. Make sure to do the float bowl full of fuel over night, to be sure of a seal. Good luck, Martin.

05-11-2015, 03:55 PM	#26
Ianrhall Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Posts: 253	Re: Setting float level Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Is the leather part you refer to at the bottom of the rod? Mine is not leather and looks brand new as does the power valve. Suspect it's had a carb kit fairly recently. So, to check power valve, fill float bowl, and leave over night? Martin, where do you get your exhaust bends from? I have some cheap headers and hope to make my own dual system Ian

05-12-2015, 07:38 AM	#27
scooder Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Posts: 2,593	Re: Setting float level The leather cup is on the end of the rod that goes down to the throttle. The cheap kits have a Blue rubbery cup on them. These are troublesome. They can stick in the accelerator pump well, and they get all grumpy with this new bloody petrol. There often the wrong length aswell, as there actually for a Holley 885 (49-51 Merc carb) basically they just don't work properly. Belchers or Bob may have a good second hand one or NOS. On old ones I soke the leather in oil if there real dry, helps um work straight away. Once there in the petrol will keep um soaked. The power valve test, yep to what you said. Exhaust bends, I keep an eye out for cheap obsolete exhaust stock at fitting places or the bay called E. Often get them of the bay for 99p. If you want 2" landrover late series 3 tail pipe is 2" its got about seven bends and a squat little straight through glass pack in it. Normally about £25 from the cheap landy suppliers. Bargain. With a couple of these and some straight pipe your done. I got the part number at home of you want, I'm a work now road testing a big Healy 3000, in the sunny west country, they even pay me to do it! Martin.

05-12-2015, 08:01 AM	#28
Ianrhall Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Posts: 253	Re: Setting float level Ha, that sounds good, I have 2 brockman steel pack mufflers. These have 2" in and out, the headers only have 1 3/4" outlet. So my original idea was to fit reducers on either side of the mufflers Ian

05-12-2015, 04:34 PM	#29
Ianrhall Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Posts: 253	Re: Setting float level Started fitting the headers tonight, the drivers side needs some fairly major surgery to clear the steering box, oh well they were quite cheap!! Ian

06-19-2015, 04:35 PM	#30
Ianrhall Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Posts: 253	Re: Setting float level Finally got the truck back on its wheels today. Starts ok ad long as I don't pump the gas. Is running rich, new plugs fairly black/sooty although no black smoke from exhaust. Runs better with the aircleaner off. The mixture screws look wrong-have been changed at some point,doesn't make slot of difference when I screw them in or out. Are those screws available? Ian