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#1 |
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Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Spokane, Washington state
Posts: 250
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Probably written about before, but I have two upper window garnish wood screws maybe #8 or #10 broken off in the only spot I can put the metal vertical chrome garnish on. These screws look broken off flush with the really hard oak a long time ago.
Do I try to drill a hole in the middle of the metal screw and try to tap, or do I give up and drill around big broken screw hole and then epoxy wood filler and start over? Thanks for advice from personal experience. LOL. Kim
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68B frame# late May1930, fixed seat, Briggs build plate# & most parts, indicate July, or early Aug. 1930. |
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#2 |
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Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: miles city, mt.
Posts: 40
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Try this
Use a old electric soldering iron the kind with a big copper heat sink, get it good and hot, put a dab of solder on it to transfer heat and hold it on the end of the broken screw until it burns the wood enough to loosen the screw. |
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#3 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Clinton,WA/Whidbey Island
Posts: 4,105
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I'd remove remaining screw parts any way you can-screw extractor etc,fill whole with a good glue epoxy and redrill for proper screw size. Chisel around screw or use dremmel tool then vise grips. what ever works to remove. Never Give Up!!!! Especially on a little screw.
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www.whidbeymodelaclub.com |
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#4 |
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Lincoln, Nebraska
Posts: 1,909
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Using a small drill bit work your way around the screw(s), grab it with a long nose pliers or such. Once the screw is out drill out the remaining hole to size and glue in a piece of oak dowel to fill the hole. Probably will give a better anchor point for the new screw than filling with epoxy.
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Dave / Lincoln Nebraska |
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#5 |
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Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Lake Mills, WI
Posts: 251
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This happened to me on a cabinet knob once. A friend of mine, who does woodworking, had a small tool similar to a miniature hole saw, and he said they were made for this very purpose. It cut a small core out of the wood, with the broken screw at the center, and extracted the whole piece. He then had a correct size dowel that he glued into the hole.
After the glue dried, he drilled a pilot hole for the new screw, and the knob covered the plugged area. I don't know what they are called, but it worked like a charm. If there is a store that sells wood working supplies near you, possibly they could help. Crosscuts idea is along the same line, and may be faster than looking for this odd tool.
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Always one bad decision away from a good time. |
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#6 |
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Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Kingwood Texas
Posts: 30
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#7 |
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Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Farmington MI
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What Stew said... for one or two applications you may be able to get away using a length of thin wall metal tubing, maybe even a piece of hydraulic brake line.
Being a "wood boat" guy, I know all about broken screws in hard white oak. Joe B |
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#8 | |
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Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Alberta
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#9 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Ogden Utah
Posts: 242
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I agree with the advice from the above post about lubrication of the screws. My father an old school carpenter/ cabinet maker would use a household wax candle. Worked for me when I built the wood in my Murray fordor.
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#10 |
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Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 7,496
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If you go the route of gluing a plug into the wood, DO NOT use PVA. It will cause the new screw to rust out in no time.
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#11 |
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Location: United Kingdom
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#12 | |
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Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 7,496
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My comment is based on experience. It's something to do with the drying/curing process of PVA (acetic??)
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#13 |
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Marana Arizona
Posts: 1,776
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Here is the Harbor Freight link for "plug Cutters". Great addition to the tool box. Just use them like a drill and cut around the broken screw. Be sure to go deeper than the screw (?).Then with a small chisel or screwdriver snap out the plug complete with the screw and glue in the proper size dowel. Works every time, Chap
https://www.harborfreight.com/catalo...&q=plug+cutter |
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#14 |
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Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Greenwood SC
Posts: 294
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A HF plug cutter is what you need. May I suggest that you practice on the workbench with the tool and a hand drill. These cutters are best used in a drill press. The cutter does not have a pilot and will tend to walk if not held perpendicular to the work piece. Take a scrap 1/2" thick piece of wood and cut a thru hole to use as a guide. This guide can be clamped in place. As someone has stated, the plug can be cut with the next larger cutter. Gorilla Glue for the plug, pilot hole, and bees wax for lubrication and you are good to go. Good luck.
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#15 |
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: bozeman mt
Posts: 170
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Bar soap works great for lubing wood screws and wont stain.
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#16 | |
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Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: North Eastern MD
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#17 |
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Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Spokane, Washington state
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Thanks everyone for some great ideas and discussion. I found this site based on comments above.
https://www.woodcraft.com/products/screw-extractor-1-4
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68B frame# late May1930, fixed seat, Briggs build plate# & most parts, indicate July, or early Aug. 1930. Last edited by kimeccles; 01-03-2019 at 01:22 PM. |
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#18 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 734
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Save yourself a lot of trouble and use only steel or stainless steel screws when you can find them. The quality of hardware fasteners today is crap and that is why they break while being screwed in.
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#19 | |
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Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Greenville, SC
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#20 |
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: upstate NY near Mass border
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I have always head that stainless steel screws are not as strong as regular steel screws. Is this correct
??? Jack |
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