first night at first start attempts... no start, dripping carb (with fire!)

[pyrodork]

i've already figured out that i did my timing wrong (as it seems so many people do) by pointing the rotor on the #4 cylinder instead of the #1 (10 o'clock versus 5 o'clock). anyway, i've got that figured out. i just gotta readjust it next time i'm over there.

but my other issue was that fuel was dripping from the carb intake. not a straight drip, but it was slow and started after i had her cranking for awhile (but only while cranking). i believe it has something to do with holding the choke open for a long time (and never starting something like this before). i've seen threads about drippy carbs, but didn't find anything that also had fire with it. not a huge fire or anything, but i was able to just blow it out. could that have been a result of flooding and trying to start with incorrect timing? or what's the thought out there?

i'd like to go back to the garage tonight or tomorrow to get this squared away.

carb is a freshly rebuilt tillotson. truck hasn't been started for probably over 30 years. she was cranking and puffing out a little exhaust (and nut shells). i have no pipes coming out of the exhaust manifold.

[Russ/40]

You may be flooding the heck out of it. The choke should only be momentary to get fuel in it.

[ctlikon0712]

Float slightly ajar. Lightly tap the carb with a wooden handle.

[pyrodork]

as i said, i've never started something like this before. i was holding the choke open for maybe 30 seconds at a time. i'm thinking that's what caused the gas to drip out.

i think if it were the float, it would be leaking constantly instead of the little bit here and there that i was getting.

what would cause it to ignite? spark plugs on incorrect timing?

oh, and after the obvious flooding that i did last night, would i need to drain the bowl before trying to start again tomorrow?

[Ron in Quincy]

If you choked as long as you say you did you flooded the cylinders. To start your A, advance the throttle rod two or three clicks, retard the left rod completly, turn on the gas valve, turn on the ignition switch, step on the starter and at the same time choke and immediately release choke. When engine starts, advance left control rod half way down the quadrant. If the engine is totally cold when starting you may open the choke lever 1/4 turn off seat. After the engine is warm close off the needle seat.

I am assuming your carburetor is properly jetted.

rON

[KeansClassics]

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Only hold that Choke out for a split second when starting the Car. I learned that if you hold out the choke for too long you will get a nice stream of fuel flowing from it! Being an up-draft carberator, it has only one place to go and thats out where the air comes in. The fire probably started from the excess fuel puddling up and some sparked carbon build-up flying from the exhaust manifold ignited it.

[TinCup]

You will find a great tutorial on this site. It tells and shows you how to start your A.
www.modelabasics.com

[KeansClassics]

Make sure as well you have compression in each of the Cylinders. The Intake and Exhaust Valves can stick after so many years of sitting without being lubricated. That happened to my 1930 Ford Town Sedan, the car sat for about 10 years without being run and the second and third exhaust valves were stuck open giving it no compression in those cylinders. After freeing those valves up and timing it correctly she fired right up! Just take the spark plugs off and stick your finder into the spark plug holes and feel for compressed air being forces out. If you have that then it should start. As well put some Marvel Mystery Oil in each cylinder to lube it up nice and good to seal the rings for easier starting. (It will smoke a little after getting it started because of that oil, but it will burn off.) If its been sitting for the 30 years you say then it might need a little help! The flooding and backfiring from the incorrect timing also could have started that small fire. I blew up my exhaust pipe from not having it timed right and it backfiring on me. As long as you have Compression, Spark, Fuel and Correct Timing, she will start!

[steve s]

Originally Posted by pyrodork

... i've seen threads about drippy carbs, but didn't find anything that also had fire with it. not a huge fire or anything, but i was able to just blow it out. could that have been a result of flooding and trying to start with incorrect timing? or what's the thought out there? ... .

Yep, if the timing's off, the plugs could be sparking while the intake valves are partially open. Then, it's a clear path for the flame to get back to the carb. Or, if I understand correctly that you've got no exhaust pipe hooked up, similarly flames out the exhaust valves/manifold could touch off the fumes at the carb.

Choke it for four "grunts" maximum--one to load each cylinder.

Steve

[pyrodork]

i know all the valves and whatnot are free, good compression. i've checked that before. i assume the carb is jetted right because the guy who did it has done it several times before.

now that it has cranked a few times with the starter, i think once i get it timed correctly, she should go. i'm heading over in a while to charge the battery and try again.

being that the exhaust has that flanged end, has someone figured out a good "farmer's fix" to get a pipe clamped on to make my own exhaust system? i was told that some muffler shops may have a tool that will make the flanged end, but i haven't researched it yet.

[pyrodork]

she runs! resetting the timing did it!

blowing out a lot of smoke at first (probably the marvel oil i poured in the plug holes), back fires a little (but not much or very hard... maybe playing with the spark advance will fix that?). the head, VC, and manifold gaskets are leaking; which is causing more oil to burn and tons of smoke after i shut her off.

i don't have the radiator hooked up yet, so i didn't wanna run it long. once i get it on, i'll let it run a while longer and change the 5w-30 a few times before putting in the straight 30.

surprisingly running pretty smooth, considering that it's probably been no less than 30 years since she last ran.

WOO!


now to get the transmission workin!

oh, and i'm still looking for brake rods (4x service, 1x emergency) and a service brake shaft. and the arm that comes out of the right rear wheel for the e-brake. somehow mine snapped off at some point.

[1930artdeco]

Congratulations! These engines are fairly forgiving and even severely beaten up will run. Now just get the radiator hooked up and let her run for a good long while. As she is running then you can fine tune her.

Mike

[pyrodork]

got some gaskets today, so i'll pop those on when i put the radiator on.

maybe the vacuum leak in the gaskets is causing the random, tiny backfires? looks like there's a little particle that comes out the few times it does. i think the combination of the gaskets and running it longer will clean it out. i'm pretty positive i timed it precisely.