The Ford Barn

TinCup · 10-27-2012, 02:11 PM

I have less than 3000 miles on my motor and #6 will not hold it's setting. I pulled the valve cover to address the ticking noise that developed after our club fall tour. I started adjusting and found several out 1-2 thousands but #6 was out .040. I adjusted them all and then this morning took off for an event on the south side of Oklahoma City. By the time I had made it to the event which is about 30 miles it was ticking again.

At this point I can only try and file the threads or use a chisel to bugger up the threads to keep it from moving after adjustment. I know that trying to use a thread locker will be pretty hard in an assembled motor

Any other successful methods for fixing this problem?

Special Coupe Frank · 10-27-2012, 02:15 PM

Is is possible to add a thin jam-nut to the threaded adjuster, and create a "double-nut" lifter ?

kenparker · 10-27-2012, 02:30 PM

had a similiar problem on a customer car. We screwed the single nut/thingee out as far as it would go then cleaned it throughly, then touched the threads with a pinhead size dab of JB Weld, then did the final adjustment. problem solved - at least until he decides to rebuild the engine. We will worry about the JB Weld when the time comes.

d.j. moordigian · 10-27-2012, 02:48 PM

Is the adjusting bolt loose in the threads of the lifter, is it turning?

Or is the bottom of the lifter and / or cam lobe dieing?

TinCup · 10-27-2012, 02:53 PM

The bolt is loose I can tell by the way it turns when adjusting it.

29 model-a · 10-27-2012, 03:06 PM

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How about lock tight?

BarracudaBoy · 10-27-2012, 04:17 PM

Drill it for safety wire?

Purdy Swoft · 10-27-2012, 04:42 PM

Probably not enough room for a safety wire. It is usually necessary to have the ajustable lifter all the way up to get the wrench on the body of the lifter to make an adjustment. Then run it back down to measure the gap. Unless the lifter bosses in the block have been shortened, there won't be enough room.

TinCup · 10-27-2012, 04:48 PM

Well and trying to drill the bolt would be difficult at best. Come on Purdy I was counting on you for something out of the barn to fix this.

PC/SR · 10-27-2012, 06:05 PM

Get a sharp punch and "stake" it in the correct position by making a dimple where the thread and body meet.

Purdy Swoft · 10-27-2012, 06:34 PM

I think that PC/SR has the right idea. Just be careful the bosses in the block can sometimes break off fairly easily. I broke one off once in a 31 block that had good babbit . I had been lucky to get all of the head studs out without breaking a one, I was planning to overhaul it . Good luck.

H. L. Chauvin · 10-27-2012, 07:53 PM

Hi T.C.,

The existing oil present on the threads will prevent adhesion of any type of thread locking material or liquid steel.

Sometimes difficult to obtain in small quantities, but one fix used in many vintage fixes for worn, loose threads is lead wool from a Plumbing Supply House or a local plumber -- hopefully, one may give you some about the size of a cherry tomato.

Unscrew bolt, wrap lead wool around threads, pack in threaded joint, & turn bolt. Loosen & apply again if still loose until female threads get "filled" & bolt is not loose.

I would not try steel wool in an engine, but fine (4-O), (OOOO), can work in other similar loose thread applications such as restoring old shotguns & rifles where bolts & screws threaded into metal are not removed often.

Hope this helps.

Fred K-OR · 10-27-2012, 08:04 PM

Keep the ideas coming guys. I have a "click" in my "new" engine that I just installed in my coupe that sounds like this situation. Will be all ears or rather eyes to see the best solution.

Tom Wesenberg · 10-27-2012, 08:41 PM

I would first try center punching the threads.
A shot of carb cleaner on the threads will give your dry clean threads, so you can use Lock-Tite.

29 model-a · 10-27-2012, 09:02 PM

I've cleaned the threads with carb cleaner and then heated them up just a bit to dry them out and used lock tite.

Growley bear · 10-28-2012, 09:10 AM

Why not just replace the lifter and have done with it?

Purdy Swoft · 10-28-2012, 09:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Growley bear

Why not just replace the lifter and have done with it?

That would be more difficult, it would require removeing the engine and camshaft.

John Stone · 10-28-2012, 09:24 AM

I had this problem several years ago. I center punched the threads and it still loosened up. Did this a couple times. Then pulled the pan and found the mushroom was wearing off. Case hardening wasn't there. Did a hardness test and it was soft like cold rolled steel. Put in a new set of "single lock" lifters and the car is still running with those giving no problems. I saved the lifter as an example of bad reproduction parts.

TinCup · 10-28-2012, 09:47 AM

The single nuts that these replaced had the same problem. Infact the base was completely worn off of one.

Quote:

Originally Posted by John Stone

I had this problem several years ago. I center punched the threads and it still loosened up. Did this a couple times. Then pulled the pan and found the mushroom was wearing off. Case hardening wasn't there. Did a hardness test and it was soft like cold rolled steel. Put in a new set of "single lock" lifters and the car is still running with those giving no problems. I saved the lifter as an example of bad reproduction parts.

BarracudaBoy · 10-28-2012, 10:25 AM

Heat the nut as you "slightly" squeeze it in a vise so it drags as you run it down. Not the best solution and a good chance of overdoing it. I would practice on some junk hardware before I tried on my car.

10-27-2012, 02:11 PM	#1
TinCup Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: OKC / Tonkawa, Ok. Posts: 1,977	Single Nut Lifter Woes I have less than 3000 miles on my motor and #6 will not hold it's setting. I pulled the valve cover to address the ticking noise that developed after our club fall tour. I started adjusting and found several out 1-2 thousands but #6 was out .040. I adjusted them all and then this morning took off for an event on the south side of Oklahoma City. By the time I had made it to the event which is about 30 miles it was ticking again. At this point I can only try and file the threads or use a chisel to bugger up the threads to keep it from moving after adjustment. I know that trying to use a thread locker will be pretty hard in an assembled motor Any other successful methods for fixing this problem? __________________ Oklahoma City Model A Restorers Group.

10-27-2012, 02:15 PM	#2
Special Coupe Frank Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Northeast Penna Posts: 2,108	Re: Single Nut Lifter Woes Is is possible to add a thin jam-nut to the threaded adjuster, and create a "double-nut" lifter ?

10-27-2012, 02:30 PM	#3
kenparker Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Van, Texas Posts: 1,122	Re: Single Nut Lifter Woes had a similiar problem on a customer car. We screwed the single nut/thingee out as far as it would go then cleaned it throughly, then touched the threads with a pinhead size dab of JB Weld, then did the final adjustment. problem solved - at least until he decides to rebuild the engine. We will worry about the JB Weld when the time comes.

10-27-2012, 02:48 PM	#4
d.j. moordigian Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Fresno, Ca. Posts: 3,636	Re: Single Nut Lifter Woes Is the adjusting bolt loose in the threads of the lifter, is it turning? Or is the bottom of the lifter and / or cam lobe dieing?

10-27-2012, 02:53 PM	#5
TinCup Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: OKC / Tonkawa, Ok. Posts: 1,977	Re: Single Nut Lifter Woes The bolt is loose I can tell by the way it turns when adjusting it. __________________ Oklahoma City Model A Restorers Group.

10-27-2012, 03:06 PM	#6
29 model-a Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Iron River Wi Posts: 172	Re: Single Nut Lifter Woes Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) How about lock tight?

10-27-2012, 04:17 PM	#7
BarracudaBoy BANNED Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Clarksville, TN Posts: 147	Re: Single Nut Lifter Woes Drill it for safety wire?

10-27-2012, 04:42 PM	#8
Purdy Swoft Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Alabama Posts: 8,099	Re: Single Nut Lifter Woes Probably not enough room for a safety wire. It is usually necessary to have the ajustable lifter all the way up to get the wrench on the body of the lifter to make an adjustment. Then run it back down to measure the gap. Unless the lifter bosses in the block have been shortened, there won't be enough room.

10-27-2012, 04:48 PM	#9
TinCup Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: OKC / Tonkawa, Ok. Posts: 1,977	Re: Single Nut Lifter Woes Well and trying to drill the bolt would be difficult at best. Come on Purdy I was counting on you for something out of the barn to fix this. __________________ Oklahoma City Model A Restorers Group.

10-27-2012, 06:05 PM	#10
PC/SR Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Santa Rosa, CA Posts: 1,279	Re: Single Nut Lifter Woes Get a sharp punch and "stake" it in the correct position by making a dimple where the thread and body meet.

10-27-2012, 06:34 PM	#11
Purdy Swoft Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Alabama Posts: 8,099	Re: Single Nut Lifter Woes I think that PC/SR has the right idea. Just be careful the bosses in the block can sometimes break off fairly easily. I broke one off once in a 31 block that had good babbit . I had been lucky to get all of the head studs out without breaking a one, I was planning to overhaul it . Good luck.

10-27-2012, 07:53 PM	#12
H. L. Chauvin Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 4,179	Re: Single Nut Lifter Woes Hi T.C., The existing oil present on the threads will prevent adhesion of any type of thread locking material or liquid steel. Sometimes difficult to obtain in small quantities, but one fix used in many vintage fixes for worn, loose threads is lead wool from a Plumbing Supply House or a local plumber -- hopefully, one may give you some about the size of a cherry tomato. Unscrew bolt, wrap lead wool around threads, pack in threaded joint, & turn bolt. Loosen & apply again if still loose until female threads get "filled" & bolt is not loose. I would not try steel wool in an engine, but fine (4-O), (OOOO), can work in other similar loose thread applications such as restoring old shotguns & rifles where bolts & screws threaded into metal are not removed often. Hope this helps.

10-27-2012, 08:04 PM	#13
Fred K-OR Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Stayton, Oregon Posts: 3,806	Re: Single Nut Lifter Woes Keep the ideas coming guys. I have a "click" in my "new" engine that I just installed in my coupe that sounds like this situation. Will be all ears or rather eyes to see the best solution. __________________ Fred Kroon 1929 Std Coupe 1929 Huckster

10-27-2012, 08:41 PM	#14
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: Single Nut Lifter Woes I would first try center punching the threads. A shot of carb cleaner on the threads will give your dry clean threads, so you can use Lock-Tite.

10-27-2012, 09:02 PM	#15
29 model-a Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Iron River Wi Posts: 172	Re: Single Nut Lifter Woes I've cleaned the threads with carb cleaner and then heated them up just a bit to dry them out and used lock tite.

10-28-2012, 09:10 AM	#16
Growley bear Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2012 Posts: 777	Re: Single Nut Lifter Woes Why not just replace the lifter and have done with it?

10-28-2012, 09:24 AM	#18
John Stone Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Wichita, Kansas Posts: 710	Re: Single Nut Lifter Woes I had this problem several years ago. I center punched the threads and it still loosened up. Did this a couple times. Then pulled the pan and found the mushroom was wearing off. Case hardening wasn't there. Did a hardness test and it was soft like cold rolled steel. Put in a new set of "single lock" lifters and the car is still running with those giving no problems. I saved the lifter as an example of bad reproduction parts.

10-28-2012, 10:25 AM	#20
BarracudaBoy BANNED Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Clarksville, TN Posts: 147	Re: Single Nut Lifter Woes Heat the nut as you "slightly" squeeze it in a vise so it drags as you run it down. Not the best solution and a good chance of overdoing it. I would practice on some junk hardware before I tried on my car.