59 block questions

[CA Victoria]

I was confused by this block I picked up: it has “59” stamped on the bell with the narrow lip above the cam cover. It is relieved too. I found an older post which our friend Walt commented on:

Walt Dupont--I have had a few of those engine in my shop. They have real thick cyl. walls. The only thing I can figure is there a replacement engine for the 39-42 221 made in 46-48.


One of the sites I read stated that the serial number was stamped on blocks as required by local regulations. I have another stamped 99a xxxxxx block out of a 46 Mercury with the same physical attributes.....any thoughts on the 99C xxxxxx prefix?

It has a crack.
A couple post I have read regarding cracked blocks describe the typical crack from one of the center exhaust valves into an adjacent cylinder as being a tough crack to repair. Can this area be successfully repaired?
any thoughts on criteria for evaluating go-no go to salvage the block before extensive cleaning and further testing?
Is this area solid cast in between the valve cup and cylinder?

(I will add photos tomorrow...)

[38 coupe]

All sorts of stuff got stamped on blocks over the years. Post pictures of the deck and we can help ID the block.

[cas3]

That sure looks like the correct ford # stamps

[Tinker]

Motors were never stamped with vin on the deck. ya maybe someone stamped them. Not hard to get stamps. Most dealers had them.


Usually the kiss of death is lower valley cracks along the oil pan. They all have cracks, guess it depends on what you want to build andwhat you want to pay for.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by CA Victoria

I was confused by this block I picked up: it has “59” stamped on the bell with the narrow lip above the cam cover. It is relieved too. I found an older post which our friend Walt commented on:

Walt Dupont--I have had a few of those engine in my shop. They have real thick cyl. walls. The only thing I can figure is there a replacement engine for the 39-42 221 made in 46-48.


One of the sites I read stated that the serial number was stamped on blocks as required by local regulations. I have another stamped 99a xxxxxx block out of a 46 Mercury with the same physical attributes.....any thoughts on the 99C xxxxxx prefix?

It has a crack.
A couple post I have read regarding cracked blocks describe the typical crack from one of the center exhaust valves into an adjacent cylinder as being a tough crack to repair. Can this area be successfully repaired?
any thoughts on criteria for evaluating go-no go to salvage the block before extensive cleaning and further testing?
Is this area solid cast in between the valve cup and cylinder?

(I will add photos tomorrow...)

[Bored&Stroked]

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Are you saying the crack is from the exhaust valve to the cylinder NEXT to it, or through the transfer area to the cylinder that feeds this valve/port? Can you post a picture of it?

[deuce_roadster]

Your picture is of the intake surface of the block and a port TO an intake valve. The bad cracks described are seen from the deck surface usually with the valves removed.

[CA Victoria]

Still need to get the valve out to get a look see how deep the visible crack is into the ex cup. A few days of rain ahead so i will get it onto a stand and finish disassembly so it can be cleaned up and i can mag test the top side first.
It this area solid cast?
Any thoughts on the best pin to use?

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by CA Victoria

Still need to get the valve out to get a look see how deep the visible crack is into the ex cup. A few days of rain ahead so i will get it onto a stand and finish disassembly so it can be cleaned up and i can mag test it.
It this area solid cast?

The water jacket is behind the cylinder where the crack is. Depending how deep and long the crack is, hopefully it can be pinned and then the cylinder will need to be sleeved.

[CA Victoria]

I learned this evening that this is more than likely a service replacement block 59A-6010-A.
(ford service bulletin 07-15-1946)
It will be interesting to see what the wall thickness is for this block.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by CA Victoria

Still need to get the valve out to get a look see how deep the visible crack is into the ex cup.
Any thoughts on the best pin to use?

[KiWinUS]

I have seen all model flathead crack like that. Have repaired many by pining new seat and sleeve.

[Bored&Stroked]

That is a very common crack and like Tony (KiwinUS) mentioned, it can usually be fixed. BUT - it should be fixed by somebody who has used IronTite plugs for a long time, knows how to correctly drill, knows how to "overlap" the plugs, has the correct taps, etc..

Lastly, before that process is done, the block needs to be cleaned, magnafluxed on ALL sides (pan rails can easily be cracked), then pressure tested. This will identify any other cracks to deal with. Depending on how many cracks and where they are located, then a decision can be made to "save the block" or not.

If you're going for a larger over-bore (say 1/8"), then it is usually a good idea to sonic test the block so the machinist knows how much material they have to work with and can recommend a safe over-bore.

After that, the valve seat is knocked out of it, then a series of overlapping iron threaded pins are screwed into place, then the block is bored for a new sleeve and a new valve seat is pressed in place.

Once the engine is built, I highly recommend that upon it's first water-fill and start-up that you use a "ceramic seal" type of water-glass product to help coat the inside of the block and ensure that everything gets sealed up. I use Moroso Ceramic Seal.

My guess is that unless there are additional cracks in very bad places (inside the exhaust passages, pan rails, etc), that the block can be saved.

Best of luck,
B&S

[CA Victoria]

Thank you Amigos-that was the info/expertise that I was looking for......will clean it up and mag it. I do not have a pressure test plate so if no other issues pop up then off to the machine shop for the final check & repair.

[rotorwrench]

The VIN stamped on the intake deck is not common. The number indicates a 1946 commercial VIN. Some states required a serial number be stamped on the engine but I'm not sure which state or when that was the case. The VIN was generally stamped on the half bell of the transmission. It was then stamped on the frame when the engine was mated during production.

There were two different types of blocks that were cast with the "59" on the top of the rear bell. The 41A 221 block started production before the 59A 239 engine started in civilian production. The 221 was a replacement for pre-war engines beginning in mid to late 1944. Both types were produced in 1945 but I don't know how long the 41A block was produced. The 41A block had characteristics of the prewar engines while the 239 did not. This leads to confusion when a person finds a "59" marked block with small bores of a 221.

[CA Victoria]

Thank you, that pieces the information together I had read. Coincidently both of my blocks are stamped with a 99- series, 1946 serial number which in of itself is not related but interesting. May have been a DMV requirement when an engine was replaced.
Both blocks are 3-3/16 with the 59 embossed on the bell housing and the pre war front cover ledge.

[Bored&Stroked]

You mentioned that your 59 blocks have the pre-war timing cover ledge - would like to see a picture of the front of them as I've not seen that in a 59x block, though same say they have.

[Tim Ayers]

To add to this mystery, my 59L has the pencil holder lip. Anything is possible I guess.

[Roger W Gerow]

Years ago in 1961 I purchased a 1947 Ford long door coupe. First owner was a school teacher, second owner was a mechanic, third owner was me. Not long after my purchase, $150.00, I pulled the heads and had .045 taken off them. When cleaning up the exposed area including the visible intake surface I discovered the entire serial number along with the stars on the left rear surface. The engine appeared to have the acceptable appearance, grease, oil and dust. Will never know if the engine was ever replaced since new. It was sold new in Yakima, Washington to the first owner. The second owner lived in a little town near there. I lived in Yakima too. So thats my story.

[CA Victoria]

Here are photos of the 59 block. I believe the relief is a factory modification.
The other engine came out of a Ca car-1946 Mercury Station wagon.