SOS... 351 Water Pump Bolts Placement

[Fortunateson]

Well I was getting onto the re and re of my water pump on my ‘87 F250 with its 351 and was placing the bolts carefully on a little table in the way they came out. However, something happened and gravity struck causing the bolts to land helter skelter on the floor!

Now ther are a couple of short one, three longer one and one rather long one. So can anyone post a pic or diagram which goes where?

Thanks in advance...

[KULTULZ]

You will find them here -

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...t-lengths.html

The above is for before 1970 ...

If the 87 351W/5.8L is different, it should show here -

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ns-inside.html

[oldbugger]

you can usually figure it out by putting the bolts in the holes. Where they meet the thread will indicate where they will need to be.

[Fortunateson]

Perfect! I knew you’d come through...!

[Fortunateson]

But I’m a wee bit lazy... better to be armed with knowledge!

[Fortunateson]

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Well got the coolant pump back on A-OK! However....no one ever told me that the timing cover gasket tends to bugger up at the same time!

So I’m going to have to get a mechanic on this and he was hard to find because a lot of the technicians only work on vehicles with computers... I just don’t have time to do it now nor the space. I’m going to get anew oil pump (low pressure and not expensive) and while the timing cover is off new gears and chain ( cheap really).

However, before the work can be done I need to make about a half hour dump run. When I went to refill the cooling system there were no leaks from the WP but it was leaking a lot from the timing cover. So...if I cleans and dry the site of the leak and gob on some silicone would that be advisable? And what about the old standby Bars Leak?

I promise the proper repairs will be made!!!!

[KULTULZ]

When I went to refill the cooling system there were no leaks from the WP but it was leaking a lot from the timing cover. So...if I cleans and dry the site of the leak and gob on some silicone would that be advisable? And what about the old standby Bars Leak?

Do you think it was leaking from the front cover before?

If leaking, the only repair is re-sealing the timing cover. Ain't no dabbing going to do it. Stay away from stop-leaks unless you are desperate (they also plug-up radiators and heater cores).

You're putting on a timing set, correct?

Fill the system and leave the radiator cap loose. See how badly she leaks without system pressure on it if you need to use it temporarily, Carry coolant with you.

[Fortunateson]

Thanks for the reply. I was going to carry coolant with me but it’s leaking too badly. Just had the engine running at I saw it wasn’t going to take “a little dab will do ya” so I’ll just wait until my mechanic can attend to it.

New cover/gasket, seal and hopefully a speedy sleeve, gears and chain, and oil pump and one piece gasket. Right now I just don’t have the space or time to do it myself as I have my LBC apart in my garage.

I’ll post when mission is complete...

PS what happened to your sense of humour? You used to post some funny stuff.....

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by Fortunateson

PS what happened to your sense of humour? You used to post some funny stuff.....

Well actually, my sense of humor died @ marriage ...

As to posting {{{shudder}}} adult material, there was a new wannabe MODULATOR participant that came here some months ago with guns blazing crying about how HE didn't appreciate or approve of the content(s)...

So, in fear of another ARTICLE 15 (two entered into my jacket already) here, I cut back unless said participant replied directly to one on my posts ...

It seems to me that if a poster's style bothers someone that they would employee the IGNORE FEATURE offered here. GOD knows I have.

But stayed tuned, more adult material(s) are in the waiting ...

[Fortunateson]

@KULTULZ I’ve had to send my Bavarian car into the shop. They are currently performing a prostate exam on me so being on a pension having a mechanic work on my F250 may not be in the cards for awhile...

So I’m thinking I’ll do the timing cover gasket and gears/chain myself. The oil pump may have to wait. There is no racket regarding the low oil pressure so I think I should be safe fo a little bit.

So in your opinion how long to re and re the timing cover and gears/chain and would a new cover be advisable? I heard that the covers corrode due to electrolysis and should be replaced. Thoughts?

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by Fortunateson

@KULTULZ I’ve had to send my Bavarian car into the shop. They are currently performing a prostate exam on me so being on a pension having a mechanic work on my F250 may not be in the cards for awhile...

I feel your pain. Been there, done that ...

If the doctor asks if he finds anything in there during the exam can he go ahead and try to correct it before talking over what the exam found, think twice before saying yes (IMO). Ask me how I know.

So I’m thinking I’ll do the timing cover gasket and gears/chain myself. The oil pump may have to wait. There is no racket regarding the low oil pressure so I think I should be safe fo a little bit.

So in your opinion how long to re and re the timing cover and gears/chain and would a new cover be advisable? I heard that the covers corrode due to electrolysis and should be replaced. Thoughts?

Was the actual timing cover leaking, the pump or both? As for electrolysis, you won't know until you get it torn down.

Why do you think you need an oil pump? Have you put a QUALITY MECHANICAL PRESSURE GAUGE on the engine?

[KULTULZ]

Well got the coolant pump back on A-OK! However....no one ever told me that the timing cover gasket tends to bugger up at the same time!

How did the cover gasket get damaged while only replacing the WP?

Is there a parts box store nearby that you might be able to borrow a coolant system pressure tester?

[Fortunateson]

Oil pressure mechanical gauge gave me readings from around 38psi down to about 15-18 psi after the engine warmed up, if I recall correctly. Dash gauge shows very low to zip! For the price of a pump and the one piece gasket I figure just replace the pump...

As far as the timing cover gasket I thought the fluid at the top of the cover was blown back from the WP by the fan. So I found out that in reality both were leaking bu the A
WP was REALLY leaking.

[oldbugger]

15-18 is still usable on a used engine, jmho

[KULTULZ]

... 15-18 psi after the engine warmed up ...

Is that @ idle or 1000 to 2000 RPM? What type of oil are you using?

The pan has to be dropped to replace the pump/

[Fortunateson]

It was a few weeks ago but I think it was at idle. I think I should have tested around 1,000-1,500 RPM so I may test again whenever I get the timing cover leakage sorted.

When I do the timing cover I suppose some silicone sealer/RTV should be used where the bottom of the cover meets the oil pan, correct? I’m just hoping there isn’t a lot of corrosion where a new cover would be needed.

[KULTULZ]

Before we go to the pan gasket, here is a photo of the front cover -

There are passages for coolant flow, the passages on either side of the cover. Are you sure the leak is behind the cover to the block?

There is a sheet metal spacer on the back of the pump. Could it be that gasket (plate to cover) that you are seeing leaking?

[rjlester]

Those timing covers tend to cavitate water/air in the drivers side coolant port. As a result, it wears away at the aluminum over time. I've had one leak for years, and new gaskets would not seal the leak. One day after washing the engine, noticed coolant seeping out of the timing cover itself. Gently poked it with a screwdriver and I had a fountain of green coming out!! I removed the timing cover, and it was worn paper thin on the inside.

Needless to say, I bought a new timing cover. No leaks since.

[Fortunateson]

Sorry, I should be a wee bit more precise. I’m quite sure it’s leaking at the gasket not the actual cover. So I think I’ll just go for a gasket and the seal for the crank. I was hoping to get a speedy sleeve for the crank just in case but they are around $60 bucks around here so I may buy online but Rock Auto doesn’t seem to stock them only something that looks like an o ring.

If I see the the actual cover is buggered after I take it off then I’ll get a new cover. And as I mentioned I’m going for a new timing set at the same time “while I’m in there...”.

[KULTULZ]

- COOLING SYSTEM ELECTROLYSIS -

- https://www.motortrend.com/news/keep...-electrolysis/