56 Thunderbird distributor

[Yotehunter66]

I have the duel advance distributor in a 312. The vacuum port threads were mangled. What are the options for replacing or repairing these?

[scicala]

If the threads are too bad to repair or rethread, I always see the double diaphragms for 1956 distributors on EBAY (NOS and used). I think CASCO may sell refurbished ones too. The main thing is to make sure the diaphragms are good (hold vacuum) and that you get a leakproof seal when attaching the vacuum lines, since this system only provides a max of 4" hg (vacuum) to one of the diaphragms. Any leak would be crucial to correct spark advance and performance. The other vacuum line goes to manifold vacuum.


Sal

[dmsfrr]

If you strike out at Casco,
they're shown in the 2018 Hill's Thunderbird catalog on page 78.

[Yotehunter66]

Did a quick search for Casco and got everything but parts. Are they under any other name?

[Alaska Jim]

try this---- //www.classictbird.com/

[dmsfrr]

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Originally Posted by Yotehunter66

Did a quick search for Casco and got everything but parts. Are they under any other name?

Call Casco directly and speak with someone in their Parts dept... (800) 374-0914
https://www.classictbird.com/

Only the '57 vacuum canister is shown in their catalog but they may have a very limited quantity of reproduction or used '56 dual canisters in the shop that wouldn't be shown online.

Website catalogs can easily be out of date with actual inventory.
99% of the time the person who stocks the shelves isn't even in the same building (or city) as the persons or entity that updates the website.

Hill's at least does have the '56 part shown in their catalog... https://hillsresto.com/
There are several other T-Bird parts supply houses as well.
.

[40 Deluxe]

Don't bother Install a '57 up distributor and carb/manifold, and never look back!

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by 40 Deluxe

Don't bother Install a '57 up distributor and carb/manifold, and never look back!

Sure it's a nice idea but have you looked at the prices of those T-Bird parts recently?

IF you can find all the pieces at very good prices from friends or at swap meets you may be able to get most of them for 'only' several hundred dollars.
Looking on ebay, which admittedly has fairly high prices, the current asking price of a '57 T-Bird distributor is about $700.
'57 ECZ-B intake manifold $300+. With an auto trans you'll need an oem throttle linkage bellcrank approx $75+, vacuum wiper & power brake vac lines approx $35.
If you want a reproduction '57 Bird air cleaner, $400.

Plus a replacement carburetor $300-ish? (and a phenolic spacer, approx $30).
.

[40 Deluxe]

Well, guess I'm living way in the past, but I wasn't really thinking of T-bird specific numbers as being necessary. After all, '57 & up parts on a '56 wouldn't be kosher anyway. Any Y-block distributor through '57-'62 (through '64 pickup) Ford or Merc would work. I've had one from a '64 pickup kicking around in my stash for years. Any 2 bbl. intake manifold and your choice of a Pick Your Part carb. will give decent performance until a reasonably priced 4 bbl. intake appears. Don't think a $400 air cleaner performs any better than a $30.00 chrome one.

For that matter, can an original teapot be modified to give ported vacuum to a '57 distributor? It's been years since I've looked at a cutaway view.

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by 40 Deluxe

. . . T-bird specific numbers . . .

For that matter, can an original teapot be modified to give ported vacuum to a '57 distributor? It's been years since I've looked at a cutaway view.

Yes a '55/'56 teapot carb can be modified to correctly operate a '57+ distributor, see this link...
http://www.eatonbalancing.com/2013/0...-distributors/
but not the other way... a '57+ carburetor won't properly control a '55/'56 distributor (photo 2)

Finding a suitable 4bbl carburetor & intake manifold is relatively easy, but...
the biggest 'worm in the can' for a '55/'56 to '57 conversion in a Thunderbird is finding a '57 mechanical Tach drive distributor, unless the owner is willing to ignore the non-working oem dash tachometer or replace it with an odd looking aftermarket electric one.

Mallory used to make a nice Y-block Tach drive distributor that was discontinued a few years ago.
You may come across one at swap meets, etc. See this link... they went for about $300 or $400 if I remember correctly(?) but I'll bet spare parts (cap, rotor, module) don't exist anymore either.
https://www.amazon.com/Mallory-USA-3...ct_top?ie=UTF8
.

[Yotehunter66]

And I was about to complain about the $150 they want for a vacuum advance.

[scicala]

To me a replacement diaphragm in your original distributor is the best bet. Car will run good again, you don't lose the tack drive cable and you'll save a lot of money. Not to mention the engine will be as original.


Sal

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by scicala

To me a replacement diaphragm in your original distributor is the best bet. Car will run good again, you don't lose the tack drive cable and you'll save a lot of money. Not to mention the engine will be as original.
Sal

Times 2

Originally Posted by 40 Deluxe

. . . '57 & up parts on a '56 wouldn't be kosher anyway. ...

Certainly true for an *Original* class show car looking for maximum judging points.
My two cents worth...
If under the hood is missing major pieces or they're mis-matched in a bad way or even 'cooked', how to repair the problem is more up to the preference and budget of the owner.
Otherwise, staying 'original' can be easier if nothing else.
.

[Yotehunter66]

Do both the vacuum lines have to disconnected to set the timing?

[scicala]

Yes, and disconnected at the distributor and plugged.


Setting base timing at 10 degrees BTDC works best on Y-Blocks.


Sal

[Yotehunter66]

Distributer rotates counter clockwise. Do you rotate clockwise to advance and counter clockwise to retard?

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by Yotehunter66

Distributer rotates counter clockwise. Do you rotate clockwise to advance and counter clockwise to retard?

That sounds right.

[Yotehunter66]

Thanks. I also read about pulling the distributor and replacing bushings if needed? Does that affect timing?

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by Yotehunter66

Thanks. I also read about pulling the distributor and replacing bushings if needed? Does that affect timing?

Yes absolutely.
Once the distributor is removed from the engine it is no longer synchronized with the valves, cam shaft, pistons & crankshaft.
Replacing the bushings in a T-Bird distributor is not a DIY job unless you have some specialty tools.

If you have a Dwell meter for setting the points you can check the bushings.
With the engine running the dwell angle should not vary by 5 degrees or more. Less and the bushings are fine, more means new bushings. Oil the upper bushing with the filler cap tube at the side of the housing. (photo #1)

Before you remove the distributor (IF you need to) mark the position of the rotor tip on the edge of the distributor housing and also note/mark the rotation position of the distributor housing relative to the top of the engine.
Remove and reinstall the distributor & rotor in the exact same position and do not do anything that could turn the camshaft & crankshaft while the distributor is out.
There are 14 teeth on the gear at the bottom of the distributor shaft and it needs to be put back in, in the exact same position. This will be slightly complicated by the angled pitch of the gear teeth.