The Ford Barn

Tom in SW VA · 02-02-2014, 10:36 PM

Has anyone ever had a problem with the resistor-fuse under the dash on a 37 Ford? I have one that reads about 6 volts going in and 2.9 volts coming out to the coil. Any suggestions and help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

PS - I have ordered another resistor-fuse bar.

Joe KCMO · 02-02-2014, 10:57 PM

Yes, I have had that problem. Cheap resistor, in my case. When it warmed up, the voltage got lower and the car would stall.

G.M. · 02-02-2014, 11:07 PM

Low battery, dirty ignition switch, poor wire connection and some resistors have a bad connection where the nichrome wire is connected at each end of the resistor. A long rivet holds the two ends of the resistor together spaced by the ceramic tube the wire is wound on. The start and stop ends are captured between the ends and the ceramic. I find on some this connection is not very good. I bend the slotted covers up, scrape the ends where the wire comes in contact. Keep the mounting pads in line with each other, push the end layer of the wire against the ends with a scribe and solder using acid flux. regular solder flux won't work you need acid or the solder won't stick. Clean with baking soda and water, blow dry and bend the cover back in place. I would rather use a soldered old resistor than a new replacement. G.M.

George/Maine · 02-03-2014, 07:11 AM

The resister is about .5 ohms and best way to measure voltage is across resister that way what goes in same goes out.

Joe KCMO · 02-03-2014, 08:50 AM

If I am not mistaken, the resistor is 0.4ohms. The coil and resistor should be about 1.4ohms. I use a modern wire wound with aluminum fins for cooling resistor. Half the price of the original, should last longer, performs better, but looks modern. A choice, if interested.

P.S. I corrected my error of 1.4 ohms for the resistor alone.

Terry,OH · 02-03-2014, 09:10 AM

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It sounds correct to me. The resistor drops the voltage to the coil. You should measure the battery voltage one side, other side will read about 3. V to the coil, when the distributor points are closed. If the points are open you should read 6V on both sides of the resistor. These measurements are with the engine not running, but with the ignition switch "ON". The resistor is about 0.5 Ohm. for the original Ford installation.

Tom in SW VA · 02-03-2014, 09:13 PM

ppt

jimTN · 02-04-2014, 08:24 AM

I have had to sand the nuts, resister surface, terminals and so on on cars that have been setting for a while.

02-02-2014, 10:36 PM	#1
Tom in SW VA Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Richlands, VA Posts: 533	Resistor -fuse bar problem Has anyone ever had a problem with the resistor-fuse under the dash on a 37 Ford? I have one that reads about 6 volts going in and 2.9 volts coming out to the coil. Any suggestions and help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks PS - I have ordered another resistor-fuse bar.

02-02-2014, 10:57 PM	#2
Joe KCMO Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Miami, Florida Posts: 423	Re: Resistor -fuse bar problem Yes, I have had that problem. Cheap resistor, in my case. When it warmed up, the voltage got lower and the car would stall.

02-02-2014, 11:07 PM	#3
G.M. Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Florida and Penna. Posts: 4,471	Re: Resistor -fuse bar problem Low battery, dirty ignition switch, poor wire connection and some resistors have a bad connection where the nichrome wire is connected at each end of the resistor. A long rivet holds the two ends of the resistor together spaced by the ceramic tube the wire is wound on. The start and stop ends are captured between the ends and the ceramic. I find on some this connection is not very good. I bend the slotted covers up, scrape the ends where the wire comes in contact. Keep the mounting pads in line with each other, push the end layer of the wire against the ends with a scribe and solder using acid flux. regular solder flux won't work you need acid or the solder won't stick. Clean with baking soda and water, blow dry and bend the cover back in place. I would rather use a soldered old resistor than a new replacement. G.M. __________________ www.fordcollector.com

02-03-2014, 07:11 AM	#4
George/Maine Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mid coast Maine Posts: 1,878	Re: Resistor -fuse bar problem The resister is about .5 ohms and best way to measure voltage is across resister that way what goes in same goes out.

02-03-2014, 08:50 AM	#5
Joe KCMO Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Miami, Florida Posts: 423	Re: Resistor -fuse bar problem If I am not mistaken, the resistor is 0.4ohms. The coil and resistor should be about 1.4ohms. I use a modern wire wound with aluminum fins for cooling resistor. Half the price of the original, should last longer, performs better, but looks modern. A choice, if interested. P.S. I corrected my error of 1.4 ohms for the resistor alone. Last edited by Joe KCMO; 02-03-2014 at 11:59 AM.

02-03-2014, 09:10 AM	#6
Terry,OH Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 4,752	Re: Resistor -fuse bar problem Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) It sounds correct to me. The resistor drops the voltage to the coil. You should measure the battery voltage one side, other side will read about 3. V to the coil, when the distributor points are closed. If the points are open you should read 6V on both sides of the resistor. These measurements are with the engine not running, but with the ignition switch "ON". The resistor is about 0.5 Ohm. for the original Ford installation.

02-03-2014, 09:13 PM	#7
Tom in SW VA Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Richlands, VA Posts: 533	Re: Resistor -fuse bar problem ppt

02-04-2014, 08:24 AM	#8
jimTN Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Powell, TN Posts: 2,509	Re: Resistor -fuse bar problem I have had to sand the nuts, resister surface, terminals and so on on cars that have been setting for a while.