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Old 01-20-2013, 08:28 PM   #21
lance leblanc
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Pluck;
Thats just it, there is plenty of space to move right to left in the (unrepaired) side. The hole is 1/2" wide, is that the original design?
Attached is the bottom of the Crank Bearing
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Old 01-20-2013, 10:22 PM   #22
Steve Plucker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lance leblanc View Post
Pluck;
Thats just it, there is plenty of space to move right to left in the (unrepaired) side. The hole is 1/2" wide, is that the original design?
Attached is the bottom of the Crank Bearing
Lance,

Go to my website...then go to Additional Studies...then go to the Starting Crank Bearing article. There you will learn about it.

Pluck
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Old 01-20-2013, 11:28 PM   #23
tbirdtbird
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well i am just getting to this thread. very fixable as others have said. it was also mentioned with that much cracking to cut out the bad area and weld in a patch, which is what I would have done, since so much cracking indicates a lot of metal fatigue in that area, too easy for it to crack somewhere else. You did not mention if this was done, or just TIGed.
Frames like to do this right at the rear engine mounts and the metal there is very fatigued. I cut out a good sized area and cut pieces of unstressed metal from a 'junk' (spare) frame to replace the whole area to weld in. Good luck
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Old 01-21-2013, 01:12 AM   #24
Tom Wesenberg
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Here the first 3 pictures show a 1928 frame that was repaired and the holes weren't redrilled until I did the job. I don't recall the distance, but it should be easy to measure from the starter hand crank bearing. The last picture shows my 9-27-28 frame after I cleaned off a bunch of old dirt and grease/oil. The passenger side has the closer hole.
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Old 01-21-2013, 03:25 PM   #25
lance leblanc
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Thanks Plunk and the rest who offered info. This is why I now consider Fordbarn a essential part of my day routine.
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