frustrated and need advice

[Willynch]

1930 Tudor. Bought in November. Kept over heating after short rides and eventually when just idling in the driveway. Previous owner replaced water pump, about 5 years ago. Two owners prior replaced head (2005). Less than 5000 miles since 2005.

I replaced the radiator and thought this would take care of the overheating.

I also had the carburetor refurbished, replaced spark plugs, and have done my best to adjust the timing.

She now runs. I can reliably start the car. I can even get up to 46 MPH.

Unfortunately she still overheats.

Granted it takes awhile. If I run at 35-40 mph, it will over heat after about 10-15 minutes. The car does not do well climbing low grade hills. By not well, she is a "dog" and takes for ever to climb a grade. She will also overheat under load. I am assuming I still need to fine tune the car however I would think the overheating problem would have been solved.

Even though the water pump is relatively new and the head has been replaced, I guess these could still be the culprits

I would appreciate guidance on what to do next.

Thanks as always.

Please hurry. I am running out of scotch.

[PepeLoco]

You're down south too and we need all the cooling we can get. I got the biggest radiator I could. I mean the most rows and fins available. I paid more for the radiator than I did on my first truck! But that was the best solution for me.

Pepe

[Henry1953]

Maybe the water jacket in the block needs to be cleaned out. I was able to get a lot of rust debris out of mine with the head removed. Yours may have some clogged up channels especially around cylinder #4.

[Willynch]

so replace the new three row radiator with somthing bigger?

[Willynch]

how do i clean the water jacket? rinse it out or do i need to scrape it out?> thanks

[harleytoprock]

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How do you know when it's over heating? Could it be your just over filling the system?

[RonC]

Check your timing. You can check your timing by retarding the spark lever, remove the distributor cap and body, turn on the ignition key (make sure your car is in neutral with E-Brake on). Press on the timing pin and slowly crank the engine until the pin sets into the timing gear recess. Do this while watching the points. At the exact moment the timing pin falls into the timing gear recess the points should spark. If not your timing is off. Make sure your point surfaces are clean first.

[Bob C]

If you can only get 46MPH I would first look at the timing, check
out Marco's directions. http://www.abarnyard.com/workshop/timing.htm

Bob

[1crosscut]

I agree it sounds as if your timing is too retarded.
Find out for sure what the water temperature is. Get a cheap dial meat thermometer from the grocery store and pop the cap and take its temperature. I keep one in my truck at all times. I used it a lot until I was comfortable as to how my engine temperature ran. Now I use it to help others diagnose their cars. Super cheap way to have a piece of mind. I think most should have one in their tool kit.
A lot of times folks think that the vehicle is overheating when actually they have just over filled the radiator.

[newshirt]

Have you checked the exhaust to make sure it is clear? A semi-plugged tailpipe or muffler could make it doggy and hot.

[Willynch]

I wil try the timing again. Also, I will re-gap the spark plugs. I put in Champion W16 and did the gap at about .025 but have also been told .035 is better.

I will do the timing first. The change the spark plug gat from .025 to .035

Thanks.

I will get another bottle of scotch. I like Laphroig

[Henry1953]

I ran it with vinegar for one week then flushed. I then removed the old radiator and the head. I scraped a lot of crud off the inside of the cooling jacket with several lengths and sizes of welding rods. Then I blew the passages out with compressed air. After reinstalling the head and before installing the new heavy duty radiator I used high pressure water to flush the engine. I got a lot of crud out of my engine water jacket this way. Mine runs cool now as it should. My timing and mixture Were not the issue in my case but I know they certainly can be and should be checked before doing what I did.

[Willynch]

I used my wife's meat thermometer. Don't tell her. 204 degrees. Boils occassionally

[Tom Wesenberg]

I also think the timing is late. You could just loosen the distributor cam screw and rotate the cam counterclockwise a bit and see if it runs better, but it's best to use the timing pin and time it as described above.

If you remove the head to clean out crud, a foot of an old speedometer cable works well for the job. Just spread the wires a bit on the end, so it's like a small wire brush. Then chuck it in a small drill and start cleaning.

If you don't have an old speedometer cable, go to the local hardware store and buy a foot of 1/4" or 3/16" steel cable. You know the store owner will give you a strange look and ask why you only want a foot.
About 30 years ago a guy went to the hardware store and bought a 6 foot length of rope. The store owner asked why he wanted only 6 feet, and the guy said he was going to hang himself. The clerk thought he was joking, but that's exactly what the guy did.

[P.S.]

We are all assuming that his timing gear is installed correctly and that the timing pin truly indicates TDC.. Since this car has a history of overheating, I would take the extra step of verifying that the #1 piston is really at the top of the stroke when the timing pin falls into dimple. Then, time per Marco's method.

[Henry's Lady's Man]

Maybe try running it with just water and "Redline Water Wetter" or similar product. They advertise to lower the surface tension of the water, making it pass faster through the system and lowering the temperature, and prevent foaming.
When I removed all my antifreeze and just used distilled water, my radiator stopped foaming, and I lost NO MORE WATER. I'm about to add some "Water Wetter" to prevent rust and lower surface tension. Maybe that' worth a try. ~Chuck R

[Tudortomnz]

I hope you have a good workshop manual or at least an Owners Handbook reprint.
Set the timing to the book. Do not guess it unless you have long experience with a Model A. Use plain water in the radiator if possible. These cars have been driven in hot countries all over the world with little problems.

[rob63mess]

I would also suspect timing....however... On my roadster that would overheat easily, I removed the water neck on the side of the motor.....i then took a telescopic magnet and fished around in the motor as far a I could get into the water jackets....I was able to get 3 big handfuls of rust flakes out of it. I have never had a overheating issue since. Might be worth a shot.

[TinCup]

Step back and make a list of the great suggestions offered here. As has been suggested verify timing and make sure that you are not running too retarded. Yes I gap plugs on a non high compression head to .035. If this is your first A driving is definitely different than a modern car. You are not going to power up hills and even low grades without losing speed. If there is a local club driving another A will give you a point of reference to compare to. You mentioned it is a new radiator. Did you buy it local or from one of the online vendors. A 3 core radiator should have no problem cooling your car. Good luck with the investigation.

[Ray64]

I had the same problem as he does and it was the timing. Had a model a GURU set the timing and been HAPPY MOTORING since

[Willynch]

I started by checking the point gaps. I had recently replaced the points and breaker arm. The point gap was much less than .02 so I reset that.

I am assuming the new breaker arm pad wore down some.

Before proceeding to timing the ignition, I started the car out of curiosity. Seem to run much better.

I went ahead a re-did the timing and took it for a ride.

Much improved

Top speed was 56. No issue with the hill she wouldnt climb yesterday. DId not overheat.

Thanks for the advice

[gweilbaker]

Would a different timing cover throw off the timing enough to have the symptoms here? I think Vince Falter's site has a page covering various styles.

[Willynch]

started by checking the point gaps. Much less than .02.

I had replaced the breaker arm and points a month or so. I imagine the breaker arm pad that the cam lifts had worn down some. Re-set the gap to .02 and started the car. Much improved.

Went ahead and re-timed the car and went for a ride. No issue with the low grade climb. Did not overheat as yesterday. Top speed of 56 with a little left in her.

Actually passed a car. A first for me.

Thanks all

[katy]

Did you put a small dab of grease or vaseline on the distributor cam? If not, you should.

[burner31]

No one has brought up a thermostat.