The Ford Barn

buyitsmart · 03-30-2012, 04:29 PM

I have oil seeping out from between the head and the engine block on my B engine. I just bought the car and drove it about 10 miles and noticed this. Should I re-torque the head? Is the torque on a B engine head 55 foot pounds?

ford1 · 03-30-2012, 05:18 PM

loose head nuts,improper head torque sequence, improper head torque, warped head or block

700rpm · 03-30-2012, 05:43 PM

Good diagnosis by ford1. This is a common problem. I'd take the head off, put a new gasket on, maybe one of the new type that's supposed to compress better than the copper ones, and retorque it properly.

BILL WILLIAMSON · 03-30-2012, 06:20 PM

First! Don't PANIC!! Torque the head first, so called "oil" may be soluable oil or some other anti-rust. Model A head gaskets DO NOT leak motor oil. Then clean old residue and see if it comes back. Same thing on one car I bought. I, personally, always add Bar's-Leaks just to feel good! By the way, I'm NOT an additive addict, as MOST are just a SNAKE OIL or PANTHER PISS money maker. Bill W.
(Torque it cold to 55ft.lbs. Do this at least twice, several days apart, DON'T loosen nuts when retorqueing!) VO

Patrick L. · 03-30-2012, 06:57 PM

I agree, don't get worried just yet.. Retighten the head nuts from the center out.. Do not loosen first, just tighten.. Do it a couple times as mentioned and see what happens..

columbiA · 03-30-2012, 10:01 PM

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1st thing I would do is torque them all to 55#.If thats a B block,you must have an A head-which is a step backwards-or a5.5 or 5.9 head.

1931 flamingo · 03-30-2012, 10:15 PM

As others have said, their advice won't cost you anything. Wipe the seepage of, re-torque it, run it, let cool, and retorque. Do this a couple of times. If the seepage persists THEN replace the gasket and start the fun again. JMO
Paul in CT

western77 · 03-31-2012, 05:01 AM

I can't say for sure, but the oil pan dosn't look like a "B" pan. You might want to check the steering box out, grease isn't the best diet for the worm and sector.

Mike V. Florida · 03-31-2012, 05:50 AM

I have to disagree with the do not loosen group. You need to break the "stickyness" of the nut on the head. Loosen the nut 1/8 turn and then tighten.

rollingsculpture · 03-31-2012, 07:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike V. Florida

I have to disagree with the do not loosen group. You need to break the "stickyness" of the nut on the head. Loosen the nut 1/8 turn and then tighten.

drain out some water from the radiator to be below deck level or you will end up with water in the cylinders

pat in Santa Cruz · 03-31-2012, 09:07 AM

what is the theory regarding not loosening the nut prior to a re torque?

Ever since Larry Brumfield suggested loosening it first, I have done that with 100% successful results. When you do not loosen first, you are only measuring the force required to break the static torque, which is more a result of rusting threads and surface tension than it is of the stretch in the stud.

buyitsmart · 03-31-2012, 04:37 PM

Thanks guys. I re-torqued as best I can. Some of them were pretty loose. The problem is that head bolts 2, 8, 9 and 12 appear to be stripped. I got them all to 50lbs but #9. It would not tighten up to 50lbs.

Then when I went to 55lbs bolts #2,8 and 12 would not tighten....

Looks like it's time to take the head off and get out the helicoil.

According to Vince Falter at http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/ABcy...comparison.htm it looks like I have a Police head.

Based upon the picture of my head would you agree?
Does the engine look like a B?

Bob C · 03-31-2012, 05:17 PM

Yes, B block with A police head.

Bob

1931 flamingo · 03-31-2012, 05:46 PM

Anty different shots of that intake?? What is it??

Paul in CT

700rpm · 03-31-2012, 07:31 PM

May I suggest you also get rid of the metal tube for your terminal box to cutout wire before it rubs bare and shorts out?

buyitsmart · 03-31-2012, 09:13 PM

700rpm, good catch. I will do that.
1931, the intake is homemade with a Stromberg 97 on it.
The headers are straight pipes and homemade as well.
The car was used in Hill Climb events and it's LOUD!! LOL.

1931 flamingo · 04-01-2012, 06:31 PM

As Sgt Shultz used to say: Veerrrry Interessting.

Paul in CT

Great Lakes Greg · 04-01-2012, 06:45 PM

I just used the "new" style head gasket on a B engine. Two different part numbers, so I assume an "A" head gasket will not work on the "B". I had the head surfaced just enough to clean it up and the new gasket has worked very well. I bought mine from Brattons.

columbiA · 04-01-2012, 11:09 PM

I used the Fel-Pro 7013 R3 gasket with the Brumfield 5.9 A head on a 33 B engine.You have to plug the 2 small holes on either side of the center water jacket hole on the B block.If you dont,you risk leaking coolant into the center cyls as the fire ring almost touches the edge of those holes.Tap the holes to 1/8" pipe& use plugs with an Allen hole.Tap the holes just enough,so that when the plugs are tight they are a few thou above the deck.I filled the holes with JB Weld& carefully filed the plugs level with the deck.This has worked well for over 13,000 miles.

03-30-2012, 05:43 PM	#3
700rpm Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Portland, Oregon Posts: 5,906	Re: Oil seepage between head and engine block Good diagnosis by ford1. This is a common problem. I'd take the head off, put a new gasket on, maybe one of the new type that's supposed to compress better than the copper ones, and retorque it properly. __________________ Ray Horton, Portland, OR As you go through life, keep your eye on the donut, not the hole.

03-30-2012, 06:20 PM	#4
BILL WILLIAMSON Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: FRESNO, CA Posts: 12,560	Re: Oil seepage between head and engine block First! Don't PANIC!! Torque the head first, so called "oil" may be soluable oil or some other anti-rust. Model A head gaskets DO NOT leak motor oil. Then clean old residue and see if it comes back. Same thing on one car I bought. I, personally, always add Bar's-Leaks just to feel good! By the way, I'm NOT an additive addict, as MOST are just a SNAKE OIL or PANTHER PISS money maker. Bill W. (Torque it cold to 55ft.lbs. Do this at least twice, several days apart, DON'T loosen nuts when retorqueing!) VO __________________ "THE ASSISTANT GURU OF STUFF" Last edited by BILL WILLIAMSON; 03-30-2012 at 07:33 PM. Reason: WARNING & ADDITION

03-30-2012, 06:57 PM	#5
Patrick L. Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Largo Florida Posts: 7,225	Re: Oil seepage between head and engine block I agree, don't get worried just yet.. Retighten the head nuts from the center out.. Do not loosen first, just tighten.. Do it a couple times as mentioned and see what happens..

03-30-2012, 10:01 PM	#6
columbiA Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: B.C. Canada Posts: 1,746	Re: Oil seepage between head and engine block Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) 1st thing I would do is torque them all to 55#.If thats a B block,you must have an A head-which is a step backwards-or a5.5 or 5.9 head.

03-30-2012, 10:15 PM	#7
1931 flamingo Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: new britain,ct 06052 Posts: 9,390	Re: Oil seepage between head and engine block As others have said, their advice won't cost you anything. Wipe the seepage of, re-torque it, run it, let cool, and retorque. Do this a couple of times. If the seepage persists THEN replace the gasket and start the fun again. JMO Paul in CT

03-30-2012, 05:18 PM	#2
ford1 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: oroville ca. Posts: 1,554	Re: Oil seepage between head and engine block loose head nuts,improper head torque sequence, improper head torque, warped head or block

03-31-2012, 05:01 AM	#8
western77 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Grand Rapids Mi Posts: 168	Re: Oil seepage between head and engine block I can't say for sure, but the oil pan dosn't look like a "B" pan. You might want to check the steering box out, grease isn't the best diet for the worm and sector.

03-31-2012, 05:50 AM	#9
Mike V. Florida Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: South Florida Posts: 14,054	Re: Oil seepage between head and engine block I have to disagree with the do not loosen group. You need to break the "stickyness" of the nut on the head. Loosen the nut 1/8 turn and then tighten. __________________ What's right about America is that although we have a mess of problems, we have great capacity - intellect and resources - to do some thing about them. - Henry Ford II

03-31-2012, 09:07 AM	#11
pat in Santa Cruz Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: santa cruz, calif Posts: 2,011	Re: Oil seepage between head and engine block what is the theory regarding not loosening the nut prior to a re torque? Ever since Larry Brumfield suggested loosening it first, I have done that with 100% successful results. When you do not loosen first, you are only measuring the force required to break the static torque, which is more a result of rusting threads and surface tension than it is of the stretch in the stud.

03-31-2012, 05:17 PM	#13
Bob C Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: So Cal Posts: 8,755	Re: Oil seepage between head and engine block Yes, B block with A police head. Bob

03-31-2012, 05:46 PM	#14
1931 flamingo Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: new britain,ct 06052 Posts: 9,390	Re: Oil seepage between head and engine block Anty different shots of that intake?? What is it?? Paul in CT

03-31-2012, 07:31 PM	#15
700rpm Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Portland, Oregon Posts: 5,906	Re: Oil seepage between head and engine block May I suggest you also get rid of the metal tube for your terminal box to cutout wire before it rubs bare and shorts out? __________________ Ray Horton, Portland, OR As you go through life, keep your eye on the donut, not the hole.

04-01-2012, 06:31 PM	#17
1931 flamingo Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: new britain,ct 06052 Posts: 9,390	Re: Oil seepage between head and engine block As Sgt Shultz used to say: Veerrrry Interessting. Paul in CT

04-01-2012, 06:45 PM	#18
Great Lakes Greg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 1,369	Re: Oil seepage between head and engine block I just used the "new" style head gasket on a B engine. Two different part numbers, so I assume an "A" head gasket will not work on the "B". I had the head surfaced just enough to clean it up and the new gasket has worked very well. I bought mine from Brattons.

04-01-2012, 11:09 PM	#19
columbiA Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: B.C. Canada Posts: 1,746	Re: Oil seepage between head and engine block I used the Fel-Pro 7013 R3 gasket with the Brumfield 5.9 A head on a 33 B engine.You have to plug the 2 small holes on either side of the center water jacket hole on the B block.If you dont,you risk leaking coolant into the center cyls as the fire ring almost touches the edge of those holes.Tap the holes to 1/8" pipe& use plugs with an Allen hole.Tap the holes just enough,so that when the plugs are tight they are a few thou above the deck.I filled the holes with JB Weld& carefully filed the plugs level with the deck.This has worked well for over 13,000 miles.