The Ford Barn

Chuck Dempsey · 03-02-2024, 05:38 PM

I know this is a long shot, but my Dad bought a horn, and a light switch rod, from JC Whitney around 1970. The horn was a 'single wire' type, so he set up a simple switch on the steering column to run power to it when needed. I'd like to buy a new Snyders horn, with the two wires, and use the BUTTON on the 1970 light switch rod - IF IT WAS EVER SET UP TO ACTUALLY WORK. The wiring harness 'ground' wire does NOT actually ground when I hold the button down. So I would like to try and take the rod apart and repair it, IF IT WAS EVER SET UP TO ACTUALLY WORK. I don't recall the wording of the original description from the cataloged, so if anyone is actually using one, I'd sure like to know....

Thanks!

Herb Concord Ca · 03-02-2024, 07:41 PM

try using a multimeter set to resistance. one probe on the end metal tab on the horn rod and the other probe on ground. you should have an open, no reading on the meter. Pressing the horn button should show close to zero ohms. if you have this response, the horn rod and button works.
The one wire JC Whitney horn can be modified to work like a Model A horn by taking the cover off and carefully looking for the varnished coated wire connected to the horn frame, if you can find this connection cut the wire from the horn frame and that wire becomes your second horn wire.
Good luck

Chuck Dempsey · 03-02-2024, 09:28 PM

Herb, thanks. I'll take a look at that.

Joe K · 03-02-2024, 09:54 PM

The horn is probably the commonly seen "Hutchins" pattern. One of the three I have has a chrome bell, a blue (go figure) back body, and a single wire coming out through a hole with a rubber grommet on it to prevent shorting. It's a 12V horn IIRC - the primary sales market of JC Whitney in the 1970s.

On mine if its like yours the "ground connection" occurs through the "body" of the horn. You need a nice tight bolt arrangement where its attached to a piece of your car which hopefully is equally well connected to the car frame for continuous effective grounding.

Which is the way these Hutchins horns were sold to be used on 12V "modern" cars.

The Model A is neither 12V (usually) nor "modern" (usually.)

You're looking at a hybrid possibility. The problem you will have is the usual center of the steering column rod/pushbutton works on the Model A horn by providing the ground. The Model A horn is "live" all the time but works when you provide the ground by pressing the pushbutton. (I.e. current flow is "up" the button rod via the internal wire, and the momentary switch connecting to rod exterior/ground is "under" the pushbutton.

It is possible to open the Hutchins horn, and trace out the wires. You need to "lift" the horn electrical ground and connect/extend this to yield TWO wires.

At the link below you can see the Model A horn wiring. It has (IIRC) a "yellow" wire which is the "hot" wiring going to the horn. The "yellow/green" wiring leaves the horn and connects to the horn button/rod. This is the Model A Ford current path.

https://lesmodela.files.wordpress.co...ng-diagram.pdf

And below is a previous board discussion/disassembly of the Hutchins horn. Those who HAVE opened the horn and took pix. No wiring diagram but the exact subject of ground IS discussed.

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...ns+horn+wiring

Between these two you probably have enough information to make something that works.

OR you could provide the usual "farmer fix" and mount a surface mounted pushbutton switch above your gas tank on the interior moulding - which is how I found my truck (Avatar) when I bought it in 1973. You're not the first to encounter this problem.

Joe K

Joe K · 03-03-2024, 08:59 AM

Amazing what a night's sleep can do.

You can use the horn without modification if you provide a "relay" which is normally open but on energization goes "closed."

The relay acts as intermediary and takes the place of the Model A horn. You press your horn button, it completes the circuit and energizes the relay (which is "live"), which in turn completes its circuit to feed current to the JC Whitney horn.

I'm looking forward to tonight's bed-rest to uncover more truths.

https://www.famousscientists.org/7-g...ade-in-dreams/

Joe K

nkaminar · 03-03-2024, 09:15 AM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

To get the horn button to work, remove the C clip at the bottom after compressing the spring and remove the "spider" and spring. The horn rod should slide up. They should be tabs at the top that can be bent straight to take the button apart. If you can get the horn rod out of the steering column that is best. If you have closed car you may have to loosen the steering column to move the wheel down to remove the rod.

First check the conductivity of the wire in the center with an ohm meter. If no conductivity then you may have to buy a new horn rod and switch with the same length. If the conductivity of the wire is good then clean up the contact on the bottom of the horn button. Check conductivity between the outside diameter of the horn rod and the wire when the horn is pressed. If that is good, re assemble and put everything back together. You can compress the spring in a vice and tie it in the compressed position with 4 loops of strong string to make installation easier.

Chuck Dempsey · 03-03-2024, 01:27 PM

Thanks all. You have given me plenty to look at. With a little luck, I save money on new horn and light switch rod.....

ronn · 03-03-2024, 05:53 PM

I'm looking forward to tonight's bed-rest to uncover more truths.

lol, the computer is always running, even when we dont realize it!

Chuck Dempsey · 03-04-2024, 08:14 AM

Ronn, any luck? Cold fusion, maybe?

03-02-2024, 05:38 PM	#1
Chuck Dempsey Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Waynesville, NC Posts: 788	JC Whitney 1970 era horn info I know this is a long shot, but my Dad bought a horn, and a light switch rod, from JC Whitney around 1970. The horn was a 'single wire' type, so he set up a simple switch on the steering column to run power to it when needed. I'd like to buy a new Snyders horn, with the two wires, and use the BUTTON on the 1970 light switch rod - IF IT WAS EVER SET UP TO ACTUALLY WORK. The wiring harness 'ground' wire does NOT actually ground when I hold the button down. So I would like to try and take the rod apart and repair it, IF IT WAS EVER SET UP TO ACTUALLY WORK. I don't recall the wording of the original description from the cataloged, so if anyone is actually using one, I'd sure like to know.... Thanks!

03-02-2024, 07:41 PM	#2
Herb Concord Ca Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Concord CA Posts: 637	Re: JC Whitney 1970 era horn info try using a multimeter set to resistance. one probe on the end metal tab on the horn rod and the other probe on ground. you should have an open, no reading on the meter. Pressing the horn button should show close to zero ohms. if you have this response, the horn rod and button works. The one wire JC Whitney horn can be modified to work like a Model A horn by taking the cover off and carefully looking for the varnished coated wire connected to the horn frame, if you can find this connection cut the wire from the horn frame and that wire becomes your second horn wire. Good luck

03-02-2024, 09:28 PM	#3
Chuck Dempsey Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Waynesville, NC Posts: 788	Re: JC Whitney 1970 era horn info Herb, thanks. I'll take a look at that.

03-02-2024, 09:54 PM	#4
Joe K Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Cow Hampshire Posts: 4,188	Re: JC Whitney 1970 era horn info The horn is probably the commonly seen "Hutchins" pattern. One of the three I have has a chrome bell, a blue (go figure) back body, and a single wire coming out through a hole with a rubber grommet on it to prevent shorting. It's a 12V horn IIRC - the primary sales market of JC Whitney in the 1970s. On mine if its like yours the "ground connection" occurs through the "body" of the horn. You need a nice tight bolt arrangement where its attached to a piece of your car which hopefully is equally well connected to the car frame for continuous effective grounding. Which is the way these Hutchins horns were sold to be used on 12V "modern" cars. The Model A is neither 12V (usually) nor "modern" (usually.) You're looking at a hybrid possibility. The problem you will have is the usual center of the steering column rod/pushbutton works on the Model A horn by providing the ground. The Model A horn is "live" all the time but works when you provide the ground by pressing the pushbutton. (I.e. current flow is "up" the button rod via the internal wire, and the momentary switch connecting to rod exterior/ground is "under" the pushbutton. It is possible to open the Hutchins horn, and trace out the wires. You need to "lift" the horn electrical ground and connect/extend this to yield TWO wires. At the link below you can see the Model A horn wiring. It has (IIRC) a "yellow" wire which is the "hot" wiring going to the horn. The "yellow/green" wiring leaves the horn and connects to the horn button/rod. This is the Model A Ford current path. https://lesmodela.files.wordpress.co...ng-diagram.pdf And below is a previous board discussion/disassembly of the Hutchins horn. Those who HAVE opened the horn and took pix. No wiring diagram but the exact subject of ground IS discussed. https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...ns+horn+wiring Between these two you probably have enough information to make something that works. OR you could provide the usual "farmer fix" and mount a surface mounted pushbutton switch above your gas tank on the interior moulding - which is how I found my truck (Avatar) when I bought it in 1973. You're not the first to encounter this problem. Joe K __________________ Shudda kept the horse. Last edited by Joe K; 03-02-2024 at 10:00 PM.

03-03-2024, 08:59 AM	#5
Joe K Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Cow Hampshire Posts: 4,188	Re: JC Whitney 1970 era horn info Amazing what a night's sleep can do. You can use the horn without modification if you provide a "relay" which is normally open but on energization goes "closed." The relay acts as intermediary and takes the place of the Model A horn. You press your horn button, it completes the circuit and energizes the relay (which is "live"), which in turn completes its circuit to feed current to the JC Whitney horn. I'm looking forward to tonight's bed-rest to uncover more truths. https://www.famousscientists.org/7-g...ade-in-dreams/ Joe K __________________ Shudda kept the horse.

03-03-2024, 09:15 AM	#6
nkaminar Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Western North Carolina Posts: 3,897	Re: JC Whitney 1970 era horn info Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) To get the horn button to work, remove the C clip at the bottom after compressing the spring and remove the "spider" and spring. The horn rod should slide up. They should be tabs at the top that can be bent straight to take the button apart. If you can get the horn rod out of the steering column that is best. If you have closed car you may have to loosen the steering column to move the wheel down to remove the rod. First check the conductivity of the wire in the center with an ohm meter. If no conductivity then you may have to buy a new horn rod and switch with the same length. If the conductivity of the wire is good then clean up the contact on the bottom of the horn button. Check conductivity between the outside diameter of the horn rod and the wire when the horn is pressed. If that is good, re assemble and put everything back together. You can compress the spring in a vice and tie it in the compressed position with 4 loops of strong string to make installation easier. __________________ A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past.

03-03-2024, 01:27 PM	#7
Chuck Dempsey Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Waynesville, NC Posts: 788	Re: JC Whitney 1970 era horn info Thanks all. You have given me plenty to look at. With a little luck, I save money on new horn and light switch rod.....

03-03-2024, 05:53 PM	#8
ronn Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: NNNNNNNNJJJJJJJJJJ Posts: 6,791	Re: JC Whitney 1970 era horn info I'm looking forward to tonight's bed-rest to uncover more truths. lol, the computer is always running, even when we dont realize it!

03-04-2024, 08:14 AM	#9
Chuck Dempsey Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Waynesville, NC Posts: 788	Re: JC Whitney 1970 era horn info Ronn, any luck? Cold fusion, maybe?