Removing the front wheel bearing races.

[roccaas]

I consulted Les Andrew's Volume 1, but there is no information on removing the races from the front drum when replacing the inner and outer bearings.

It appears that this is the work for a machine shop or a 40 ton press?

[Steam Engine Pete]

Just use a good punch so you can grab the rear of each race and pound them out with a hammer. Use a long enough punch so when you slip of the race you don't end up bleeding.

Pete

[Purdy Swoft]

I have always used a long drift punch and a hammer

[wensum]

Steam Engine Petes' advice will work but I find one needs to work from side to side with only a few thumps on each side at a time to drive the cone out parallel and not have it jam.
Keith

[roccaas]

Thanks. I've got time off at the end of the week and will punch them out.

I'm assuming that the new races (Timken) will slide into place, or do they also have to be "drifted" in?

[Steam Engine Pete]

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The new ones should be installed with the proper driver so you do not damage the race and also be pressed or driven into place. If they just fall in or out you need new hubs.

Pete

[Tom Endy]

When you go to tap the old races out you will see a relief machined into the drum to allow you to set a punch in place. Tap around the circumference evenly until they come out.

Clean the stops thoroughly and eliminate any burrs on them.

What I did was take one old large and small race and using a bench grinder I ground the outside edges down about .020. I use the modified races to press the new races into place. I use a shop press, but they can be installed by tapping around the circumference of the modified races with a hammer until the new races are seated. I use a dental mirror to make certain thay are properly seated.

Tom Endy

[Kevin in NJ]

Tap around with a long punch as noted above to remove.

Once out you need to evaluate the condition of the area the bearings seat into.

Look into the seat area. It should looked machined with fine lines. If it is polished smooth then the race has spun in the hub. This is bad because it can now be loose. I have one hub that you can seat the race by hand just by rocking the race into position. It was polished nice and smooth.

Look at your spindle. Better yet feel your spindle. Where the bearing sets there is likely to be some wear. You will feel a step where it should clearly be smooth and it will be on the bottom. Measure the wear and ask yourself how comfortable you are with the looseness. I do not know the go/ no go numbers. Out of my 8 spindles it was very obvious. Some can fairly far worn.

If you have some minor looseness with the race in the hub, there are Locktite products that will fill the space. The front hubs do not have to be perfect, but they can be pretty loose if you do nothing. What is acceptable is also dependent on how and how much you drive.

Putting the races in is simple. Take old race and use it to beat in the new race. You know when you have it seated as the sound will change. Confirming it is seated with something thing is not a bad thing.

Greasing the bearings is important to do right. You need to pack the grease up into the bearing cage. If you are not sure look up hand greasing the bearings on the net or you tube as I am sure there are good tutorials.

[dlamm]

very helpful

[JayJay]

Another trick I've used to success is to place your new races in the freezer for an hour or so before you install them. This allows them to shrink just a tiny bit and will make them a tad easier to install. Tom has a great idea about using an old race to make an installation tool. The key is take it easy, don't let the race get cockeyed in the hub, and keep on sending the race down until you get an even "thunk" all the way around. You will get an idea on how much force is necessary to seat the new race when you knock out the old ones.

You can also make sure your race is seated by sticking your fingernail or a pointed probe in from the back side to make sure there's no gap between the bottom of the race and the little step in the hub.

Regarding repacking, I learned (and can still do quite well) the to pack tapered roller bearings using grease in my palm. But I got one of these bearing packing gizmos (https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-34550-H.../dp/B0002NYDYO) and it is truly the cat's meow.

JayJay

[old31]

Jay, that tool is pretty slick.

[Patrick L.]

You can drive them out with a long steel punch, but, I prefer a brass one to install the new ones.

[jak]

or you can purchase the tool below
https://www.brattons.com/FRONT-HUB-I...ductinfo/1772/