8BA radiator options - suggestions?

[RuralTowner]

Looking for suggestions on a good aluminum radiator source for the 239ci 8BA. The list of sellers is dizzying (1000HP claims notwithstanding), and I'd like to make sure I'm getting a good one. From what I've seen they seem to run between 200-250$ which is just fine.

Current one "works" but has developed leaks after it sat for the better part of 40 years and the radiator shop it was taken to couldn't do anything for it. Am told it is badly plugged but when get it back will try and rod it out. Engine temp is okay during the very short jaunts on the back road by the property during test runs but wouldn't trust it on the highway.

Would prefer a proper brass//copper replacement but those are rather pricey to say the least (~500$ to over 800$) and my only current experience with aftermarket aluminum rads for older engines is in my 62 IH Scout. IT runs cool (tops out on the highway at 180 in the summer) even when the summer temps here reach 120F outside. Max I've seen is 190 when it sees trail runs in the triple digits.

As the rig in question has an 8BA heart but WW2 military scout car-resembling home built body, I'd like to make sure it's ready for the local annual memorial event this February for one of the training camps. When its not seeing service at this event it will see the odd off road or errands to town.

Getting the carb back from Charlie so it will run good for the first time in decades...just want to make sure it runs cool.

[Drbrown]

Based strictly on what I've read, brass/copper overall better as many (but maybe not all) aluminum units do not cool much better. Also, if aluminum, use a suitable coolant.

[flatheadmurre]

Problem with the ultra super deluxe versions is that to many smaller tubes restrict flow both air and water.
The flatheads pumps don´t put out a lot of pressure.
Usually a "normal" style radiator is working out better from my experience.
Or go for a aftermarket radiator from a good known source...that is known to work.

[RuralTowner]

I know brass//copper tend to cool better on a size for size basis since they can absorb (more) heat better though some sources say the supposed catch is that the solder at the joints (can) negates some of the advantage by making heat transfer harder. If nothing else the aluminum rad would be a temporary to get it safely mobile and become a backup for when (eventually) a brass//copper one can be had. I've seen quite a few resto jobs that have the aluminum rads in them with maybe half of them being trailer queens while the rest were driven many miles to location.

Not sure what you mean by "normal" unless it means fewer but larger cores. Anyone here used any from Mac's?

[51 MERC-CT]

Is your local "radiator shop" not capable of doing a re-core?
Sounds strange if they can't because doing a re core would make it good as new and keep the original configuration.

[RuralTowner]

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I'd imagine they could...not sure why they didn't offer. Rodding can be done at home just as well as there...wouldn't be the only one that's been done.

Catch is about a re-core is the current radiator isn't an actual ford one even though it has the dimensions that allow the hoses to connect. The original got destroyed during an off road adventure my dad was on where in the dark he didnt see where the road was washed out after a bad rain. Needless to say the roller on the front bumper prevented a flip. The landing though saw the engine mounts from break and send the engine ramming the rad. The replacement he picked up in a junkyard was ID'd by the shop as a 60s GM that had been altered with an extra inlet on the bottom and outlets added in the correct spots on top (original was capped). Don't know if even the shop can tell exactly what model the rad core is from to get a replacement. Did get a quote for a proper complete radiator at well over 500$.

[flatheadmurre]

Originally Posted by RuralTowner

I know brass//copper tend to cool better on a size for size basis since they can absorb (more) heat better though some sources say the supposed catch is that the solder at the joints (can) negates some of the advantage by making heat transfer harder. If nothing else the aluminum rad would be a temporary to get it safely mobile and become a backup for when (eventually) a brass//copper one can be had. I've seen quite a few resto jobs that have the aluminum rads in them with maybe half of them being trailer queens while the rest were driven many miles to location.

Not sure what you mean by "normal" unless it means fewer but larger cores. Anyone here used any from Mac's?

All that high effiency usually means your area through the pipes is smaller and with the pumps not putting out a lot of pressure you loose flow instead of gaining anything.
It´s not a racing engine...you don´t need 1000hp cooling capacity...you need something that is working with the pump and fan capacity you got.
The real tight fins is another issue when the fan can´t get a good airflow through the radiator.
I take a good stock recored radiator over the aftermarket aluminum ones if i can choose.

[RuralTowner]

Wouldn't call any of the restos I've seen "racing engines" to begin with. Most though have not been flat heads however. An aluminum rad would function at least well enough to get any other bugs worked out elsewhere. Fully intend on getting a good "proper" radiator at a future date.

Ever since this vehicle was put together it had "desert-ized" cooling with no T-stats...commonly done in carbureted vehicles around here...and never overheated when the current rad was still functional. Lack of stats would remove potential restrictions to flow on that end.

Personal preference aside then...anyone you know that has used the aluminum ones on their flatheads without trouble regardless on if they drove 5 (can still burn up even at THIS low a range), 50, or 500 miles to get to location?

[51 MERC-CT]

Originally Posted by RuralTowner

I'd imagine they could...not sure why they didn't offer. Rodding can be done at home just as well as there...wouldn't be the only one that's been done.

Catch is about a re-core is the current radiator isn't an actual ford one even though it has the dimensions that allow the hoses to connect. The replacement he picked up in a junkyard was ID'd by the shop as a 60s GM that had been altered with an extra inlet on the bottom and outlets added in the correct spots on top (original was capped). Don't know if even the shop can tell exactly what model the rad core is from to get a replacement. Did get a quote for a proper complete radiator at well over 500$.

So this is a non Ford radiator that has been modified by adding two hose connections.
And you are assuming that the radiator shop, knowing that it,s a 60's GM radiator, can't measure and find a suitable core?
And you don't want to pay the cost of having it done?

[flatford8]

How about doing what was done before......find a suitable sized used radiator and modify to fit your needs.....it worked before.....sorry, I can’t help on the aluminum radiator source. This site tends to focus on “stock, original “ repairs, maybe the HAMB can help on the aluminum rad. Good luck....Mark

[JSeery]

I would also suggest you try the HAMB, I would think you could get a response there from folks that have used an aluminum radiator. I use a Brass Works myself.

[19Fordy]

I have been told that aluminum radiators are difficult to fix if a leak or crack develops.
If possible, go with a Griffin radiator. For my 40 Ford, at my request, they made the top water inlets the same dia. as the 8BA thermostat housings so the hoses would fit.

[D. Jones]

I've been running an off shore built aluminum radiator for four years and have ten thousand or so miles on it and so far it has given excellent service. How long will it last? Who knows, but, I'm satisfied with it. I asked about re-coring my old radiator and was told that the tanks were so old they didn't think they would be any good. My only solution was to buy a new one so I ordered the aluminum one from an on-line seller. I figured I could afford several of them at the price of a new US made copper and brass one.

[wga]

I've seen flathead / stock type radiators on craigslist occasionally. Usually in the $75-$150 range, obviously used. They will need work too. Or for a new stock replacement, contact US Radiator in Vernon, Ca. http://www.usradiator.com/ford-1928-...-radiator.html

Use their standard automotive core for the flathead, http://www.usradiator.com/
that is all you need, the high efficiency core, is not required.

[RuralTowner]

...

To get this thing on the road in time...with chronic procrastination lasting months behind me...cash is too tight to get it back on the road in time for what is intended. Still have close to 800$ in tires to order for this thing....6 of them and that doesn't count the 2 spares. The ones under it now are crap rollers that have sat around for 10 years.

Is a shop about 3 hours north of me that deals mostly in F100 stuff to include truck rads for the flatheads. Have yet to double check on all dimensions with them but as long as the rad height and distance between the bottom outlets is the same...wider radiator won't be a problem. Can get a brass//copper there for just under 500$. Still just outside current budget constraints though but is a first option.

Understand, a proper brass//copper IS planned (see above). Was just after input on if anyone HAD USED with acceptable success the alternate. This is temporary and will be a spare afterwards. Wasn't aware this place tended to focus on nigh pure stock. Only stock things about this vehicle is it uses the 8BA and associated power train//axles(x2) and frame//suspension components from 50s Ford. I suppose the HAMB then would be best from now on?

Nice to see a couple inputs near end that weren't rehash. Don't often search craigslist but per a suggestion just found a couple looking to be serviceable used. Age aside they can last decades more before showing bad signs. Re-cores still (usually) cost less than all new. I think I got what I need now. Thanks

[JSeery]

It's difficult to provide inputs on stuff that a lot of us don't use. HAMB is the custom & hot rod site.

The only thing I have put alum radiators in are FOX mustangs and I have had issues with them blowing seams. But, those are pressurized systems.

[AnthonyG]

Not sure how long u plan to keep the car. Reality even from a reputable Mfgr. ya get what ya pay for. Aluminum doesn't cool as well, especially with the stock Flatty pumps. pretty common keeping them cool anyway. Make sure cooling tubes are big enough dia. so pumps work. Also if it a car that sits a lot aluminum tends to be more problematic, they corrode a lot easier obviously then brass / copper especially sitting even with additives. Brassworks http://www.thebrassworks.net/shop/shopping_cart.php makes a beautiful product, all brass / copper, $800 range but u'll only have to buy it once in this life, probably next owners life too. Anything you want from stock to all kinds of custom.

[drolston]

I went with the Champion aluminum radiator rated at 500 hp in my '41 coupe with 284 inch 59A/B. Stock water pumps, 170 degree wide opening thermostats. Cools fine on the road, but temp comes up pretty quickly at idle. Put a spacer on the fan to move it to within 1" of the radiator; added a partial shroud, added water wetter. Air flow through the radiator is better, but it still gets up to about 210 at idle.

It had a Ford truck radiator literally wedged in there before, with which I had no overheat problems.

My takeaway: Radiator horsepower ratings are meaningless. Aluminum radiators need electric fans and full shrouds to get enough air through them to cool a flathead at idle.

[markdtn]

Originally Posted by 51 MERC-CT

So this is a non Ford radiator that has been modified by adding two hose connections.
And you are assuming that the radiator shop, knowing that it,s a 60's GM radiator, can't measure and find a suitable core?
And you don't want to pay the cost of having it done?

This is exactly what I would do. It was working before so you have enough radiator size. It was mounted so you don't have to fab anything. Just replace the core and go again. Probably the least expensive route. You already said nothing was stock. Who cares about a GM radiator in a custom application if it fits and cools? I would not reinvent the wheel and move on to the next issue.

[RuralTowner]

Am done with this thread. As I have now been made aware this is pretty much a "stock only" site...any future issues with this thing will be taken to the HAMB. Got what I needed. I request this thread be locked.

This has is clearly become an instance of "This is not the droid I am looking for".

Cynicism aside, only sought some input on the aftermarkets if anyone used them at all...simply if they were satisfactory or not. Not "don't you dare". Said it would be a temporary substitute from the start. Procrastination over the course of 6 months and other purchases doesn't help the timetable I'm trying to keep with the funds at hand. Can't be the only one who put things off and had to take short cuts for the near term.