The Ford Barn

39portlander · 01-15-2018, 08:11 PM

Need some info from you guys please, all my little pulley or sheave pullers do not fit to get this of my crankshaft so I can remove the timing gear cover.

I was going to heat it up and try to move it off the crankshaft with small wedges @ 3 and 9 o'clock, any input would be great. Scott

redmodelt · 01-15-2018, 08:26 PM

You don't need to pull it all the way off, just needs to come about 1/2" forward and the cover will tip forward and past the cam shaft. I use the wedges at 3 and 9 as I don't have a puller ether. Doing that job now. Don't get too aggressive, the dam is just pressed steel and is not solid on the motor side. If you use heat, the dam is soldered and riveted in place.

39portlander · 01-16-2018, 06:35 AM

Thanks for the caution about heat in that area. I know this is just the start for opening a can of worms, when I pulled the valves I noted the lifters are very dished and need to evaluate and pull the cam.

While on the subject, what is the best procedure to remove the lifters. I was going to pull the lower cover to reach and remove the old ones and after measurements install new adjustable style. Any input would be great, Scott

redmodelt · 01-16-2018, 10:30 AM

After you remove the valves and springs, the original lifters have holes in the shaft. The hole should be the same size as the valve spring retainer pin, lift the lifter up and use the pin to keep it from dropping into the pan so you can pull the cam. You also have to remove the casting holding the generator to get to the front bearing retaining screw. I just did this job and used heavy grease to hold the new lifter in place while replacing the cam.
I suggest stuffing shop rags in the area back by the flywheel so the lifters don't fall into the void. Remember to take them out.

39portlander · 01-23-2018, 06:32 PM

updated progress pictures, pulley forward enough to remove the timing cover then gen support.

Got small nails holding up the lifters and now waiting for a cam gear lock nut tool.

Any good tips when I replace the rope seal and modern timer oil seal will help.

redmodelt · 01-23-2018, 08:11 PM

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If the modern cam seal is too loose in the the hole, squish it a bit between vice jaws and or use a little ultra-black sealer. When installing the model A rope seals, use a socket the same size as the crank to seat. After they are seated you will need to trim the ends back so, leave about 1/8 above the casting. Pre fit the front cover, you will need to adjust the thickness to the gasket that goes under it. If you have the centering tool that helps put the area around the cam shaft on center. If you are running a brush timer like new day, if you don't have the centering tool, get it as close to centered as you can.

01-15-2018, 08:11 PM	#1
39portlander Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Suth'N Maine Posts: 1,996	crankshaft pulley removal... Need some info from you guys please, all my little pulley or sheave pullers do not fit to get this of my crankshaft so I can remove the timing gear cover. I was going to heat it up and try to move it off the crankshaft with small wedges @ 3 and 9 o'clock, any input would be great. Scott

01-15-2018, 08:26 PM	#2
redmodelt Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Portland OR Posts: 6,341	Re: crankshaft pulley removal... You don't need to pull it all the way off, just needs to come about 1/2" forward and the cover will tip forward and past the cam shaft. I use the wedges at 3 and 9 as I don't have a puller ether. Doing that job now. Don't get too aggressive, the dam is just pressed steel and is not solid on the motor side. If you use heat, the dam is soldered and riveted in place. __________________ I know the voices aren't real but damn they have some good ideas!

01-16-2018, 06:35 AM	#3
39portlander Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Suth'N Maine Posts: 1,996	Re: crankshaft pulley removal... Thanks for the caution about heat in that area. I know this is just the start for opening a can of worms, when I pulled the valves I noted the lifters are very dished and need to evaluate and pull the cam. While on the subject, what is the best procedure to remove the lifters. I was going to pull the lower cover to reach and remove the old ones and after measurements install new adjustable style. Any input would be great, Scott

01-16-2018, 10:30 AM	#4
redmodelt Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Portland OR Posts: 6,341	Re: crankshaft pulley removal... After you remove the valves and springs, the original lifters have holes in the shaft. The hole should be the same size as the valve spring retainer pin, lift the lifter up and use the pin to keep it from dropping into the pan so you can pull the cam. You also have to remove the casting holding the generator to get to the front bearing retaining screw. I just did this job and used heavy grease to hold the new lifter in place while replacing the cam. I suggest stuffing shop rags in the area back by the flywheel so the lifters don't fall into the void. Remember to take them out. __________________ I know the voices aren't real but damn they have some good ideas!

01-23-2018, 06:32 PM	#5
39portlander Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Suth'N Maine Posts: 1,996	Re: crankshaft pulley removal... updated progress pictures, pulley forward enough to remove the timing cover then gen support. Got small nails holding up the lifters and now waiting for a cam gear lock nut tool. Any good tips when I replace the rope seal and modern timer oil seal will help. Last edited by 39portlander; 04-15-2018 at 06:02 PM.

01-23-2018, 08:11 PM	#6
redmodelt Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Portland OR Posts: 6,341	Re: crankshaft pulley removal... Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) If the modern cam seal is too loose in the the hole, squish it a bit between vice jaws and or use a little ultra-black sealer. When installing the model A rope seals, use a socket the same size as the crank to seat. After they are seated you will need to trim the ends back so, leave about 1/8 above the casting. Pre fit the front cover, you will need to adjust the thickness to the gasket that goes under it. If you have the centering tool that helps put the area around the cam shaft on center. If you are running a brush timer like new day, if you don't have the centering tool, get it as close to centered as you can. __________________ I know the voices aren't real but damn they have some good ideas!